In winter, the humidity level outside drops, the air becomes cold and dry, especially indoors. The resulting peeling and tightness in certain areas and on the entire face indicate a violation of the protective barrier of the skin. “In winter, the skin's ability to retain moisture is reduced by 25%, so our task is to help it restore the hydrolipid barrier,” notes Ekaterina Yur, training manager at Dior. Both salon procedures and home care, adjusted for changes in weather, will come to the rescue.
According to Natalia Vasilyeva, a beautician at the Milfey beauty salon, at the moment, almost all procedures performed in the beautician's office are classified as all-season. “In the summer, sunscreens help us protect ourselves from the negative effects of the sun after treatments,” says the specialist. - But nevertheless, cosmetologists still try to do deep peels and laser procedures in the autumn-winter period. In winter, we often try to do treatments with a nutritious effect. " Frost and heating affect the condition of the skin: they increase its reactivity and dry it out, therefore, procedures with a regenerating and moisturizing effect are also in great demand.
Galina Amosova, a dermatologist of the international cosmetics brand Icon Skin, agrees with her colleague: “In winter, experts advise procedures that have an ablative effect and are not recommended during periods of high solar activity. These include laser resurfacing, photo and elos rejuvenation and epilation, electrolysis, medium and deep chemical peels, aesthetic surgical interventions, as well as invasive procedures such as mesotherapy, biorevitalization, invasive carboxytherapy. " The specialist adds that it is worth giving preference to salon procedures that will prepare the skin for the spring and summer period: laser biorevitalization, various types of liposuction, massages (both hardware and manual), SMAS- and RF-lifting.
1 of 10 Dior Capture Totale CELL Energy Cream, Dior © Press Office Anti-Aging Cream Pure Shots Perfect Plumper, YSL © Press Office Intensive Night Cream La Crème, Clé de Peau Beauté © Press -service Le Lift Crème de Nuit Night Cream for smoothing and firming the skin of the face and neck, Chanel © press service Comfort + Moisturizing face cream for men, The Gray © press service Cleanformance Phyto CBD Cream soothing relaxation cream, Babor © press -service Concentrated face cream Intensive Hyaluronic Cream, Institut Esthederm © Press Service Emergency Repairing Face Cream, Elemis © Press Service Triple Lipid Restore 2: 4: 2, SkinCeuticals
© Press Office Anne Semonin Deep Nourishing Regenerating Cream Extreme Comfort Cream © Press Office
An excellent option would be procedures with marine components. For example, "The Energy of Sea Water", which is made on Thalion cosmetics in Aldo Coppola salons. It is often recommended as an introduction to thalassotherapy. It suits everyone, has practically no contraindications and helps to cope with fatigue, stress, loss of strength and lack of energy. First, the specialist will make a stimulating peeling massage with sea salt and aromatic oils, then a soothing and relaxing wrap using a light translucent gel based on magnesium concentrate with an analgesic effect. After applying the gel, it is the turn of a special biodegradable silky film. For 20-40 minutes (depending on the client's wishes), a foot or head massage is done. At the end of the procedure, a nourishing cream or body oil is applied.
For those who don't have time for lengthy treatments, Sodashi Sea Mineral Facial is designed to moisturize, tone and restore radiance. Specialist Aldo Coppola uses the properties of seaweed and valuable vegetable oils that oxygenate the skin, detoxify and even out tone.
1 of 10 Uplifting and Firming Cream Enriched, Vital Perfection, Shiseido Fatigue Eliminating Facial Gel, Gel Energisant for Men and Gel Energisant Yeux for Men, Clarins Men, Clarins Bamboo Cream Frappe, Erborian © Press Office Hydra-Global Hydratation Intense Anti-Age Face Cream, Sisley © Press Office Precious Immortelle Face Cream, L'Occitane © Press Office Revitalizing My Payot Nuit, Payot © Press Office Oceanskin Face Cream, Sesderma © Press Office Riche Intense Moisture Rescue Cream, Vinosource, Caudalie © Press Office Refreshing Eye Cream to Brighten and Depuff On-the -Go, GinZing,Origins © Press Office Toleriane Sensitive Moisturizer, La Roche-Posay © Press Office
Features of skin and care
According to Sergey Khachaturyan, senior training manager at Shiseido, the main criteria in winter care are our needs, skin type and lifestyle. “And if you see that your skin care is working, then in winter you can add more nourishing textures of your favorite correcting cream or complement the ritual with nourishing and moisturizing masks or serums,” the specialist adds.
Also, we must not forget about age-related changes in the condition of the skin and facial tissues, which must be taken into account when choosing care products. “The main, most common signs of age are the following: loss of firmness, wrinkles, dehydration, dull complexion and hyperpigmentation,” lists the fears of all women, the Chanel expert. "Stress and lack of sleep lead to the manifestation of age signs, in addition to genetic markers." In this case, the owners of aged skin, prone to edema or already having deep folds and wrinkles, as well as various dermatoses (acne or rosacea), will not be suitable for denser nourishing textures in the compositions of care products.
“In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at oil serums,” advises Ksenia Kirillova, Ph.D., cosmetologist, author of educational programs for patients with problem skin. - In addition to herbal natural oils in the composition, pay attention to the content of retinol, vitamin E and scavolin. As a result, fine wrinkles will become less noticeable, the skin will become more elastic and taut. If desired, such a remedy can always be supplemented with a cream to enhance the effect of both."
5 main mistakes of winter care
Sergey Khachaturyan, Senior Training Manager, Shiseido
- Refusal to moisturize. Cells are almost 70% water, and therefore, refusal to moisturize, combined with exposure to heating, temperature changes outside and in the room, leads to an aggravation of the problem with dehydration - everything causes at least a feeling of tightness and flaking. Add nourishing textures instead of emulsion, for example, use a cream.
- Refusal from SPF. Everyone knows that ultraviolet light causes damage and premature aging of the skin. However, it is believed that the filter can be dispensed with in winter. This is mistake. Yes, at first glance there is less sun, but remember that UV rays penetrate the clouds, and snow and ice reflect them perfectly, which means that the UV load in winter continues. Therefore, on a sunny day, even sunglasses will be needed and, of course, a cream with an SPF filter.
- You can fight pigmentation only in autumn and winter. The apparent absence of intense UV exposure during this period is not an excuse. Of course, when using the lightening line in the summer, remember to SPF protection.
- The scrub should only be done in the spring. Since the renewal of epidermal cells is a constant process, regular exfoliation is necessary, regardless of the season. The only thing is that in winter you need to choose products with a delicate effect.
- Products containing silicones block cell respiration. In fact, most respiration occurs through the capillary network and only to a small extent during diffusion. Pores are the mouths of the sebaceous and sweat glands. All products are tested for comedogenicity and safety. The main thing is to provide high-quality and effective care in the form of cleansing and makeup remover.
Since the skin tends to lose moisture in winter, it is better to use a more saturated cream with a predominance of protective and nourishing properties. “In the frosty air, the skin first of all needs protection,” warns Tatiana Gnezdilova, an expert at YSL Skincare. - It is necessary to give preference to products with components that slow down the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the skin. In winter, many complain that they regularly use the cream, but the skin still suffers from dryness. Very often the reason is that the cream is simply not suitable for this time of year. “A winter day cream should first of all contain vegetable oils and vitamins,” the expert emphasizes. - Vegetable oils form a protective film on the skin surface and thus protect it from excessive moisture loss. And vitamins provide additional nutrition.
Ingredients to Prefer in Winter
Galina Amosova, dermatologist of the international cosmetics brand Icon Skin
- substances that restore the protective layer are ceramides and lipids;
- moisturizing substances: NMF (natural moisturizing factor), hyaluronic acid, ectoine, trehalose, aloe vera gel, algae extracts;
- anti-aging substances: peptides, growth factors, plant stem cells, collagen;
- antioxidants: vitamins C and E, resveratrol, coenzyme Q10, herbal extracts rich in antioxidants (e.g. green tea extracts, acerola, red maple bark, etc.).
Components to avoid
Tatiana Gnezdilova, YSL Skincare expert
- mineral oils;
1 of 10 Abeille Royale Rejuvenating Oil Serum, Guerlain © Press Service Intensive Retinol Oil Serum, Institut Esthederm © Press Service Face Oil for Dehydrated Skin Orchidée Bleue, Clarins © Press Service Facial Elixir with a complex of eight flowers and flakes of gold 8 Flower Golden Nectar, Darphin © press service Life Plankton Elixir, Biotherm © press service Face oil “Seaweed. Pro-collagen”, Elemis © Press Office Vinosource Night Oil, Caudalie © Press Office Black Facial Cleansing Oil, Erborian © Press Office Soothing Cleansing Oil, Bobbi Brown © Press Office Nourishing Revitalizing Facial Balm and the body of Reve de Miel, Nuxe © press service
What to choose for care - one rich, dense cream or multi-layered light textures? Valeria Khokhlova, Lancôme's national care expert, says it all depends on the lifestyle. “Everything affects the integrity of the skin's protective barrier,” the expert notes. - The humidity of the air in the house, the food is normal or the consumption of the "right" fats is limited, there may be problems with the absorption of micro- and macroelements. " If you live in favorable conditions, then light moisturizing textures are enough. If, due to various factors, the protective barrier is unable to restore itself (discomfort, peeling, irritation occurs), then it is better to pay attention to saturated creams with soothing ingredients and lipids, which will restore the protective barrier, helping to retain moisture.
It is believed that in the cold season, you should not go outside immediately after applying the cream. “The water contained in the cream will not turn into ice, as the cream quickly heats up to the temperature of the skin,” explains Marianna Nikitina, L'Occitane specialist. - They applied the cream - it warmed up. But in order for the water in the cream to have time to be absorbed into the skin, it is better to apply the product 20-30 minutes before leaving the house. Otherwise, skin dehydration threatens, which is already exposed to the attack of frost and wind."
In 2020, a face mask has become a must-have accessory. Wearing any mask every day, even the most delicate materials such as silk and cotton, is not beneficial, especially if the skin is prone to breakouts and inflammations. “There are several reasons for irritation in the form of so-called“maskne”. - says Anna Ponomareva, expert at Elemis. - One of them is minor damage caused by constant friction. This not only facilitates the entry of bacteria and dirt, but also causes inflammation. The condensation of moisture and sweat that forms under the mask clogs the pores. All this is aggravated by the ingress of saliva along with breathing, which creates a greenhouse effect and leads to inflammation."
The expert adds that high humidity also begins to affect the pH balance of the skin, which can lead to active multiplication of bacteria and, again, to the appearance of inflammation. That is why the localization of irritations and "mask" is in the area of wearing the mask: chin, nasolabial triangle, cheeks.
1 of 10 Eye and Lip Gel Make-Up Remover, Sisley © press service Superfood Soothing Micellar Foam, Elemis © Press Service 7 Herbs Cleansing Foam, Erborian © Press Office Sea Mineral Mask, Sodashi (Aldo Coppola) © Press Office Powercell Anti-pollution Mask, Helena Rubinstein © Press Office Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Pure Retinol Express Smoothing Eye Mask, Shiseido © press service Smoothing patches Super Aqua-Eye, Guerlain © press service Revitalizing lifting mask Lift & Repair, Institut Esthederm © press service Nourishing mask with mango oil Comfort SOS, Clarins © press service Mask that gives radiance to the skin of the face,with natural AHA acids Nordic-C [Valo] Fresh Glow Brightening Gel Mask, Lumene © press service
How to prevent and minimize "mask" (rashes and irritation due to wearing a mask on the face)
Anna Ponomareva, expert at Elemis
- change the mask more often;
- if the mask is disposable, then it is recommended to change it every two to three hours, if it is reusable, then it is recommended to process it after each use and wash it every day;
- while wearing the mask, it is better to abandon dense textures of care and decorative products, at least in the area of wearing the mask;
- Choose cleansers carefully, as it is recommended to wash your face both before and after wearing the mask. It is important not to use aggressive products that clean "to a squeak": they can dry out the skin and break the protective barrier. It is best to wash your face with mild cleansers and do not neglect to apply moisturizers, serums or boosters with a soothing effect. Look for ingredients such as: thyme, centella asiatica (CICA), thyme, chamomile;
- Use a mild exfoliant once a week to exfoliate the skin: they remove dead cells from the surface and prevent the appearance of new inflammations;
- Look for the same Centella asiatica (CICA), hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, phospholipids, ceramides in moisturizers to protect and prevent inflammation. They create a protective barrier as well as relieve inflammation and irritation;
- on individual areas where there is already irritation and damage, you can apply locally regenerating masks once or twice a week.
Those with dry skin types especially suffer from unstable weather conditions. “In cold weather, the sebaceous glands produce even less sebum, the skin's protective barrier is broken, and sensitivity is heightened,” says Marianna Nikitina, L'Occitane specialist. In this case, the care scheme should be slightly adjusted and replaced with more nutritious products in the cosmetic bag. “Let's start with cleansing,” Nikitina comments on the process. - Sub-zero temperatures are a reason to use more gentle cleaning agents. Soft foams, hydrophilic oils and washing your face with cool water will help maintain the lipid barrier and reduce the feeling of tightness. " As for the basic care (creams, serums), products with vegetable oils are ideal.
“I never tire of repeating that oils are needed for absolutely any skin type,” continues the L'Occitane specialist. - Dry skin gets hydration, protection, nutrition from oils. The vegetable oils contained in the creams create a barrier, like covering the skin with a protective blanket, without creating a greenhouse film. Moreover, they smooth the skin surface and make it softer, smoother. " Be sure to add nightly regenerating serums and creams to your skincare ritual. “But owners of dry and sensitive skin should refrain from harsh scrubs and procedures in winter. Nutritious masks will be much more comfortable,”sums up Marianna Nikitina.
6 steps of skin care
Ekaterina Yur, Dior Training Manager
- Use a gentle cleanser (such as a foam with a gel base) that will not feel tight.
- Use lotion to restore the pH balance of the skin and prepare it for the serum application.
- Serum is always an integral part of care, and in winter too. Choose products with hyaluronic acid, which will not only act on the surface, but also fill the skin from the inside.
- The cream serves as the basis of care. In winter, choose creams with an enveloping texture (not gel). Imagine that our skin is a brick wall: cells are bricks, and ceramides are cement, which is responsible for strong adhesion and structural reliability. In winter, it is especially important to use products with ceramides to prevent the appearance of flaking due to chapping. If you feel constant tightness, redness, peeling, irritation, then choose a cream with a rich texture - it contains 25% more glycerin and 55% more oils and waxes that restore, moisturize and nourish the skin. Warm the cream between your palms, apply to the entire face with upward movements, concentrating on the areas with peeling. Be sure to apply the product to your neck and décolleté.
- Remember the sensitive area around your eyes - use nourishing products to help protect and restore delicate skin. By the way, the cream for this area of the face can be applied as a mask in a thick layer (once or twice a week) or in a thin layer twice a day on the lips. You will see how much softer and more uniform they become.
- Spread the rest of all products on your hands to restore the skin and protect it from frost and wind.
For combination skin, the same advice is true, the main thing is to take into account its needs. “You should start with a thorough cleansing, and the products should be of a lighter texture, suitable for use with water, for example, gel or foam for washing,” says Natalya Abramova, an expert at Sisley. - It is ideal if the formulas contain ingredients with an antibacterial effect, and there will be little fat (or better without them at all). It is necessary to complete the cleansing process by toning, for this you can use a tonic lotion with an alcohol content of no more than 6%."
The daytime skincare program should be completed with a daytime protective cream, and in the evening, after removing the makeup, cleanse should be completed with a tonic. “You can use micellar water to remove make-up, cleanse and tone up,” adds the expert. "After the evening cleansing, apply the main product." For combination skin it is also very good to use a cleansing mask on white clay twice a week.
1 of 10 Night Reboot, Pure Shots, YSL © Press Service Dior Capture Totale CELL Energy Lotion, Dior Youth Activator with a new formula that targets the skin microbiome Advanced Genifique, Lancôme © Press Service Anti-Pigment Brightening Serum White Lucent Illuminating Micro-Spot Serum, Shiseido © Press Service Chronobiological Serum L'Extrait de Nuit, Sublimage, Chanel © Press Service Facial Toner The Tonic, La Mer © Press Service Fast Firming and Lifting Serum Perfectionist Pro, Estee Lauder © Press Service Plantscription Anti-Aging Power Serum, Origins © Press Service Instant Skin Reboot Night Elixir, L`Occitane © Press Service Mandelic 12% Face Peeling, Icon Skin © press service
Oily skin especially needs high-quality cleansing. “This is the first step to prevent and combat imperfections, dull complexion and even age-related changes,” comments Natalya Safronova, a leading Erborian expert, for oily skin care. - Oily skin also needs proper hydration and care for the T-zone. Once or twice a week, I recommend doing a cleansing and moisturizing mask.”
In December - February, it is much faster and easier to treat acne due to the fact that the sebaceous glands do not work as actively in the cold. “In winter, you can allow more aggressive procedures that actively fight against the problem of acne: deep peels, laser resurfacing, dermabrasion and others,” says Galina Amosova, a dermatologist at the Icon Skin international cosmetics brand. - In addition, it is possible to make correction of scars and other post-acne manifestations. I recommend a combination cleansing course more frequently than in the summer."
In home care, the specialist advises switching to the daily use of products with acids, such as cleansing foams, toners and serums. Perform a home peeling procedure once a week, apply creams with retinoids. “Although the skin is drier during the heating season (which contributes to success in the fight against acne), the lack of moisture provokes excessive sebum production and, as a result, increased inflammation,” notes Amosova. - It is necessary to add moisturizing masks and serums to winter care, replace the summer matting cream with a light moisturizing fluid. Avoid thick nourishing creams - they can clog pores."
Sensitive skin presents many surprises at any time of the year. Even simple washing with the usual gel and the use of a good cream leads to the development of the so-called sensitive skin syndrome. “The reason here is often precisely the use of inappropriate products,” says Ksenia Kirillova, Ph.D., cosmetologist, author of educational programs for patients with problem skin. - Therefore, if you notice that the skin regularly turns red, there is a tingling sensation, burning, and also noticeably peeling, it is time to change your cosmetics to a special one for sensitive skin. Pharmacy brands such as Bioderma with a special line Sensibio will help.
Men's skin requires no less attention than women's. “In winter, it is more important than ever that men's skin is well hydrated,” notes Victoria Barishpolets, senior training manager at Clarins. “Due to the change of season, it is exposed to thermal shocks (changes in temperature and humidity), which contribute to its dehydration.” The specialist notes that male skin needs more energy than female skin. The reason is high testosterone levels, which affect density, which forces cells to renew faster. They need more energy to function properly, which means it's important not to neglect grooming.
Body skin care
Today many dermatologists are of the opinion that we have become too intensive to cleanse our body. “The constant use of scrubs, bath bombs and shower gels can weaken the skin's natural defenses,” says Valeria Khokhlova, Lancôme's national skincare expert. “We are talking about the loss of a protective barrier (soap removes not only impurities) and lipids necessary for the skin, as well as an imbalance in the microbiome - a community of microorganisms that inhabit the surface of the skin and reflect the action of pathogens.” The takeaway is simple: cleansing should be gentle and best done only where necessary. “Preference should be given to the soul, rather than a long stay in a bubble bath,” the specialist believes.
For the care and moisturizing of the body, it is better to differentiate the products according to the areas of application, since different areas differ in density and permeability. “First on the list is a basic body cream that will hydrate and nourish your skin. It is saturated with oils that will act as lipids in the skin and is designed to eliminate dryness and discomfort, explains Valeria Khokhlova. - You also need a hand cream. Factors such as wind, sun, temperature drops, hand washing, cleaning and sanitizing negatively affect the beauty and youth of the skin. " According to the specialist, some dry and rough areas of the skin (heels and elbows), as a rule, need a special thick cream. Do not forget about the delicate neckline and neck area.
1 of 10 Revitalizing and nourishing body cream Nutrix Royal Body, Lancôme © press service Life Plankton Body Milk, Biotherm © press service Intensively moisturizing body lotion Darphin © press service Irresistible Perfumed Body Milk, Givenchy © press service Atoderm shower oil, Bioderma © press service Triple action lipid-reducing balm Lipikar AP + M Baume, La Roche-Posay © press service Softening cream for dry, rough and uneven skin, CeraVe © press service Irrigator and dental brush, Philips © press service Pro Genius 8000 Electric Toothbrush, Oral-B © press service White Complex Toothpaste, Biomed © press service
New Year Holidays
If you are planning to celebrate the holidays with friends, colleagues and loved ones, then it is better not to do invasive and aggressive procedures in order to avoid bruising and the recovery period. “Give preference to light peelings, hardware cosmetology (intrasyuticals, CO2), mesotherapy using the nappage technique,” says cosmetologist Natalya Vasilyeva, Milfey beauty salon. "It is better to decide which method to give preference after examining and assessing the current condition of the skin." All aggressive procedures must be excluded a maximum of five days before the holiday. “It’s better to start preparing in advance, at least two weeks in advance,” Galina Amosova shares her experience. - If your skin reacts calmly to cleaning, then you should turn to the combination. This procedure is especially relevant for men - by nature, their skin is denser and more oily.If your skin type is closer to sensitive and dry, and facial cleansing is new to you, then during the holidays give preference to atraumatic cleansing."
1 of 3 Sunscreen Milk for Face and Body SPF30, Waterlover Sun Milk, Biotherm © Press Service Sunscreen SPF50 +, UV-Defense, Filorga © Press Service Gentle Body Milk for Sensitive Skin SPF50, Sun Sensetive, Lancaster © Press Service
It is wise to visit the dentist before the long New Year's feasts. Check for tooth decay so your teeth don't suddenly ache. “The doctor will diagnose the condition of the oral cavity,” explains Vyacheslav Minko, chief physician of the Dr. Minko Dental Clinic. "If plaque and tartar are found, he will be able to recommend professional cleaning." It is important not to forget about proper home dental care. The result of dental procedures depends not only on the actions of the doctor, but also on the attention to your own teeth every morning and every evening. “The New Year is a great time to start new healthy habits, if you haven't done it before,” says Vyacheslav Minko. - For example, brush your teeth not only in the morning, but also in the evening, regularly use an irrigator. Home procedures are simple and not time-consuming. And the effect of them cannot be overestimated."
Those who are going to the ocean shore for the holidays should take into account that tanning better lies on well-hydrated skin. “When resting, be sure to take a moisturizing lotion,” advises the YSL Skincare expert. "It should contain vitamins B and E. It will moisturize, soothe the skin after sun exposure and create reliable protection."
If the skin is accustomed to frequent changes in weather conditions and upon arrival at the resort you do not observe any allergic reactions, inflammation, redness, peeling and the like, then you are the owner of a skin resistant to external influences. If your skin reacts sharply to climate change, you can add a soothing cream, for example, with panthenol, to your cosmetic bag and use it as needed (moreover, apply to different parts of the body) and, of course, do not forget about products with UV filters.>