Katerina Karpova, Pure Love
The standard rules for listing the composition of a cosmetic product on the packaging are as follows: in the first place are the components, which are the most (often this is water - aqua), then the substances in turn according to their quantity.
The more I am in the profession, the more calm I feel about synthetic substances in cosmetics, although seven years ago I basically preferred everything only organic and vegetable. The perfect combination is a natural cream with innovative, modern ingredients. I believe in the use of biotechnology in active products and corneotherapy cosmetics for daily skin care (corneotherapy is a collection of skin care methods that are aimed at restoring it and protecting its barrier systems).
Healthy ingredients
Ceramides, cholesterol (phytosterols) and lecithin
These components make up the main lipid group in our skin. With the help of such a trio, you can quickly restore the protective epidermal barrier, thereby reducing the sensitivity of the skin from environmental influences, reducing the manifestation of inflammation and premature aging. Vegetable oils containing Omega-3 and Omega-6 - essential fatty acids: oils of black currant, rosehip, hemp, evening primrose, borago - fit well with them.
Probiotics and prebiotics
To restore skin microflora and reduce the development of pathogenic bacteria. Bifidobacteria and lactobacilli, alpha and beta glucans, lysates, inulin. The use of probiotics is considered one of the most promising areas in the field of cosmetology.
Vitamins
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
It not only improves energy metabolism in skin cells, but also reduces redness, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands and regulates proteins responsible for natural skin hydration and proper formation of horny envelopes.
Dihydroquercetin (vitamin P)
Strengthens the walls of blood vessels, improves microcirculation.
Vitamin A (retinol and its other forms)
It has a clinically proven anti-aging effect and is used in the complex treatment of acne.
Vitamin K (phylloquinone) in night remedies
Brightens skin hyperpigmentation, reduces the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.
Vitamin E
A well-known antioxidant that protects cell membranes from oxidative damage. But very often in cosmetics, it is used in the very minimum dosage, only to stabilize the formulation from raw material rancidity. It is practically impossible to independently determine this, if only rely on the correct description of the product from the manufacturer.
Trehalose, saccharide isomerate
The modern generation of moisturizing ingredients. Natural polysaccharides that synergize with other ingredients like hyaluronic acid can double the moisturizing effect of a cream! Also, these components have a high antioxidant potential, soothe irritated skin and can work as a "conductor" of other active substances into the deep layers of the skin.
Assets on peptides, amino acids and enzymes
To this group I include complexes with muscle relaxant, anti-aging and keratolytic action. Peptides promote rapid skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. They regulate the work of proteins that destroy their own collagen, and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. Natural Moisturizing Factor (NUF) is a complex of amino acids that is responsible for high-quality and prolonged skin hydration.
Enzymes from papaya and pineapple fruits (papain and bromelain), bacterial enzyme Bacillus
They are an excellent alternative to face scrubs: due to chemical action and weakening of bonds between horny scales, the skin is gently exfoliated without mechanical damage.
Unwanted components
If we talk about ingredients that are undesirable in cosmetics, then I do not welcome substances that do not decompose in nature (they come without an eco-label). They really pollute our environment.
Sodium laureth- and lauryl sulfate (I also include sodium coconut)
I avoid them in shampoos, liquid hand soaps, toothpastes, and household chemicals. Yes, these types of surfactants perfectly foam and wash away dirt. Yes, their aggressive action can be mitigated by supplementing the formulation with mild, green surfactants. But there is research confirming that these molecules have a similar structure to the skin and easily integrate into the lipid layer, provoking skin sensitivity and dryness.
Propylene glycol and ethoxylated alcohols
I will never use cosmetics with a high content of these substances, that is, if they are at the top of the composition list. This can cause a breakdown in the protective layer and provoke inflammation and dehydration of the skin. But there is one point: not in every means such substances are evil. If they are at the bottom of the list, they are most likely a stabilizing solvent for the asset, and this will not affect the quality of the cream or the condition of your skin. This is rarely taken into account by bloggers and "experts" on cosmetic forums, categorically rejecting a quality cream for this reason.
PS Reading the formulations from the label is not an easy task. And even an experienced cosmetic chemist can be wrong. Plant extracts are supplied for production in various forms. But the compositions are written in a single nomenclature. These can be dry extracts based on glycerin, macerates. There is a form of CO2-extracts, which are distinguished by their saturated concentration and bioactivity; they require the introduction of only 0.01 to 0.2 percent of the active substance. Such an extract will be at the very end of the list, and it may mistakenly appear that it is not serious. Therefore, do not rush to conclude that if the extract is small in composition, then the cream will not work with it.
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