From Pleasure To Death: Sex That Perfumers Do

From Pleasure To Death: Sex That Perfumers Do
From Pleasure To Death: Sex That Perfumers Do

Video: From Pleasure To Death: Sex That Perfumers Do

Video: From Pleasure To Death: Sex That Perfumers Do
Video: The Sex Ed with Liz Goldwyn, Nina Hartley, and Dita Von Teese 2023, March
Anonim

“There is no sex in perfumery,” says Giovanni Sammarco, a rising star in Italian perfumery. "Sex is a likely consequence of using the right perfume." He is a bit disingenuous: the word "sex" - as well as "temptation", "temptation", "love game" - is present in almost half of the briefs that perfumers receive from customers. And also in the names of the fragrances themselves - just a month ago, perfumer Francesca Bianchi, a friend and colleague of the same Sammarco, released Sex and the Sea, a beautiful fantasy on the theme of a night meeting at the edge of the waves. Sex sells well, including perfume, but only at the level of an idea, a concept. Few people are really ready to smell like love sweat between 8 am and 8 pm: at work - open spaces, where you share the air with dozens of other people,and the modern work ethic prescribes a bestial seriousness in relationships between colleagues, incompatible with all sorts of depraved perfumes. In the morning in the shower, we diligently scrape off molecules of real human scent, and then apply scented products - deodorant, cream, perfume - which supposedly return us a fluid that can attract a partner. We are looking for "sexy" smells, but at the same time - well-washed, well-mannered, non-offensive. However, there are also "dirty" ones.but at the same time - well-washed, well-mannered, non-offensive. However, there are also "dirty" ones.but at the same time - well-washed, well-mannered, non-offensive. However, there are also "dirty" ones.

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With the light hand of March Moore, the author of the English-language perfume blog Perfume Possе, this depraved overtones in the composition of the fragrance got the name - skank, "mud". Moore first used it in a text about classic "guerlains" a century ago, but the dashing term quickly came into use and today is more important than ever: love for this very perfumery mud is one of the main indicators of how the tastes and moods of a significant minority in a fragrant industry. The more plaintive the grocery store shelves creak under the weight of toothless fruit and flower handicrafts (perfumers call them "compotes", obviously without much respect), the more generously - as if in revenge - niche brands ship us the coveted dirt. Dirt is much more than a bizarre property of individual compositions. This is increasingly the gold standard to which perfume is tried on,a genre attribute - for example, “dirty roses” (this is how pink scents with a dark, animal backing are called in perfumery slang), an identification beacon that sends signals to kindred noses and souls in the crowd. It's no secret that many perfumers practice the same sophisticated form of snobbery that pushes prosperous residents of the central districts into gloomy bars on the outskirts of the city: chipped glasses, a clogged hood, a stinking rag on the bar counter - all these are controversial, completely not obvious to most, that is attractive to a minority of pleasure. In the words of the Marquis de Sade, "we like what no one likes, it gives a special joy."that many perfumers practice the same sophisticated form of snobbery that pushes the prosperous residents of the central districts into gloomy bars on the outskirts of the city: chipped glasses, a clogged hood, a stinking rag on the bar are all controversial, completely not obvious to the majority, that is, attractive to the minority pleasure. In the words of the Marquis de Sade, "we like what no one likes, it gives a special joy."that many perfumers practice the same sophisticated form of snobbery that pushes the prosperous residents of the central districts into gloomy bars on the outskirts of the city: chipped glasses, a clogged hood, a stinking rag on the bar are all controversial, completely not obvious to the majority, that is, attractive to the minority pleasure. In the words of the Marquis de Sade, "we like what no one likes, it gives a special joy."what nobody likes, it gives a special joy. "what nobody likes, it gives a special joy."

But there is something more important here than snobbery: gradually we become less squeamish, we return to the acceptance of everything bodily, natural - this restructuring of consciousness occurs in all areas of human activity. If you take the one that is persistently called "beauty" in glossy magazines, then in the same piggy bank with perfumery mud there will be, for example, the trend of washing your hair without shampoo (read: not to squeak), rejection of antiperspirants in favor of natural alum (which, we will honest, work every other time) and the fashion for the so-called healthy glow products - as if right after sex. We start to like to look and smell as if we really are living people, and this is quite consistent with the general design of nature. “The sense of smell developed in living things in order for them to find food and partners - this is a primitive, animal feeling,- says perfumer Roger Dove. “When the AIDS epidemic began in the 1980s, we wanted sterility, and therefore the most popular fragrances of the next decade were ozone fresh. But today perfumery again strives for nature, for sex."

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Many perfume compositions owe their sensuality to so-called animal notes. Everyone has probably heard of ambergris and musk - a substance with a warm and velvety scent that is emitted by the Himalayan musk deer, a funny little deer with vampire fangs. Then there is civetine - the odorous secret of the anal glands produced by civets, castoreum - a tar-scented liquid with which beavers mark their territory, and African stone, or hiraceum - fossilized excrement of hyrax, stuck on the evolutionary scale somewhere between a marmot and an elephant. In perfumery, seemingly harmless honey is also referred to as animalica - according to the aroma wheel, which scientists have developed for honey producers and professional tasters, honey can legitimately smell of sweat, barn and urine. Today, most of the above substances have synthetic substitutes,which are cheaper, and most importantly, do not require the killing of animals, unlike natural “originals”. But in addition, there are plant components that skillfully imitate human and animal smells - including cumin. He is responsible for all the perfume sweat - for example, for the light sexual perspiration of Dior's Eau Sauvage, fresh and at the same time very bodily. In general, long before talking about pheromones, the smell of trivial human sweat was considered an aphrodisiac: once pomanders - aromatic balls made of wood - were placed under the armpit for a couple of hours and then handed over to the object of desire - with the same purpose for which today a potential partner is sent a photo of a penis or breast …skillfully imitating human and animal odors - including cumin. He is responsible for all the perfume sweat - for example, for the light sexual perspiration of Dior's Eau Sauvage, fresh and at the same time very bodily. In general, long before talking about pheromones, the smell of trivial human sweat was considered an aphrodisiac: once pomanders - aromatic balls made of wood - were placed under the armpit for a couple of hours and then handed over to the object of desire - with the same purpose for which today a potential partner is sent a photo of a penis or breast …skillfully imitating human and animal odors - including cumin. He is responsible for all the perfume sweat - for example, for the light sexual perspiration of Dior's Eau Sauvage, fresh and at the same time very bodily. In general, long before talking about pheromones, the smell of trivial human sweat was considered an aphrodisiac: once pomanders - aromatic balls made of wood - were placed under the armpit for a couple of hours and then handed over to the object of desire - with the same purpose for which today a potential partner is sent a photo of a penis or breast …once pomanders - scented balls made of wood - were placed under the armpit for a couple of hours and then handed over to the object of desire - for the same purpose for which today a potential partner is sent a photo of a member or breast.once pomanders - scented balls made of wood - were placed under the armpit for a couple of hours and then handed over to the object of desire - for the same purpose for which today a potential partner is sent a photo of a member or breast.

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Yet the task of stirring up our senses is most often entrusted to white flowers. Jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, honeysuckle, orange blossom - Derek Zulander's "blue steel", a sniper rifle in the perfumer's arsenal. Most often, white flowers bloom after sunset; their strong scents attract nocturnal insects needed for pollination. The first wave of smell is always good, but if you smell it, the most amazing things come out: tuberose gives off blood, jasmine - feces, chestnut flowers - sperm, daffodil - rot, and so on. White flowers intrigue perfumers, and after them, us, precisely because they smell of a human body in its most diverse extreme states, from pleasure to death. This is the secret of their sex appeal, according to the Austrian chemist and perfumer Paul Jellinek. In 1951, he wrote the program book The Psychological Foundations of Perfumery, where he argued that the purpose of the scent craft was to "create and increase sex drive," and also classified perfume ingredients according to their erotic effect. The most erogenous fragrances were considered, which reminded of the smells of the human body, emanating from the head, armpits, genitals and perineum. Jellinek rightly noted that out of context (for example, in the Moscow metro - author's note) these smells are not very pleasant, but in our memory it is precisely these that are most closely associated with the act of love. And since they are, moreover, ideologically opposite to the gnashing notes of freshness popular in mass perfumery, let there be even more of them in the niche.and also classified perfume ingredients according to their erotic effect. The most erogenous fragrances were considered, which reminded of the smells of the human body, emanating from the head, armpits, genitals and perineum. Jellinek rightly noted that out of context (for example, in the Moscow metro - author's note) these smells are not very pleasant, but in our memory it is precisely these that are most closely associated with the act of love. And since they are, moreover, ideologically opposite to the gnashing notes of freshness popular in mass perfumery, let there be even more of them in the niche.and also classified perfume ingredients according to their erotic effect. The most erogenous fragrances were considered, which reminded of the smells of the human body, emanating from the head, armpits, genitals and perineum. Jellinek rightly noted that out of context (for example, in the Moscow metro - author's note) these smells are not very pleasant, but in our memory it is precisely these that are most closely associated with the act of love. And since they are, moreover, ideologically opposite to the gnashing notes of freshness popular in mass perfumery, let there be even more of them in the niche.in the Moscow metro - approx. author), these smells are not very pleasant, but in our memory it is precisely these that are most strongly associated with the act of love. And since they are, moreover, ideologically opposite to the gnashing notes of freshness popular in mass perfumery, let there be even more of them in the niche.in the Moscow metro - approx. author), these smells are not very pleasant, but in our memory it is precisely these that are most strongly associated with the act of love. And since they are, moreover, ideologically opposite to the gnashing notes of freshness popular in mass perfumery, let there be even more of them in the niche.

The 5 "dirtiest" scents

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Salome, Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Another, this time, a perfume presentation of the biblical story about Princess Salome, who asked for the head of John the Baptist as a reward for her dance. Judging by the smell, very energetic: Salome smells like hot sweat, red-hot rose, windy and very indole orange blossom.

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Rien, Etat Libre d'Orange

Roughly dressed hide with a strong note of civetine, fumigated for decency (or disinfection) with incense. In general, unsweetened leather is a rare perfume, keep in mind.

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Absolue Pour le Soir, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris

A real "absolute de pisoir": cumin and honey are placed in the center of the composition, the first one is rather sweaty, the second one has a noticeable tone of dirty linen, all this is combined with a beautiful rose.

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L'Air de Rien, Miller Harris

It is remarkable at least for the fact that it is one of the first, if not the first celebrity fragrance with character. It was made for the main muse of Woodstock - the actress Jane Birkin, and indeed, there is some kind of disheveled festival bohemianness in it: L'Air de Rien smells of drunken kisses, stale hair and sweetish Indian incense, suffocated in the heat.

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Original Musk Blend no. 1, Kiehl's

The scent of a hostel of some elite fraternity like Alpha Delta Pi: it smells like a men's locker room, soap and perfume flowers that young female fans have brought on their necks and wrists.>

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