The main object of attention in the first joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was not at all perfectly tailored voluminous coats and costumes-variations on the theme of modern uniforms, but holey turtlenecks worn over a naked body in several layers. Prada representatives described them in a very poetic way, noting that these are not holes at all, but "precious openwork patterns in the form of holes." However, to some Twitter users, the brand's turtlenecks in yellow resembled nothing more than Dutch cheese. "The Devil Wears Gouda," wrote blogger Dr. Eric Levy, playing on the title of Lauren Weisberger's novel, which was used in the film of the same name with Anne Hathaway and Meryl Streep.
1 of 4 Jennifer Lopez on the cover of American Elle, February 2021 © Dua Lipa's press office on the cover of Rolling Stone by David LaChapelle, February 2021 © Priyanka Chopra's press office in the cover story of British Elle, March 2021 © Press office Japanese Vogue cover, March 2021 © press service
Prada isn't the only brand lobbying for perforation to be back on track. More or less neat holes have also appeared in the spring-summer 2021 and autumn-winter 2021/22 collections, presented by A-Cold-Wall, Burberry, Loewe and Fendi. As a rule, the holes were made in perfectly tailored knitwear, classic trousers and elegant dresses, that is, in things that cannot be shredded in your right mind and solid memory. And that is why they make a splash, especially after they go on sale for several hundred or even thousands of dollars.
1 of 12 Prada, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Fall-Winter 2021/22 © A-Cold-Wall Press, Fall-Winter 2021/22 © Burberry Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press- Service GmbH, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press Service Doublet, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Press Service Kiko Kostadinov, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press Service Off-White, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Press Service Loewe, spring-summer 2021 © Press Office No. 21, pre-fall 2021 © press service of Proenza Schouler, pre-fall 2021 © press service Celine, spring-summer 2021 © press service
“We appeal to those who paid $ 190 for this. Are you alright? " - wrote the authors of the Instagram account @diet_prada under a photo of ripped Gucci tights, which were sold on the Ssense platform. After influencers took notice of them, the photo of the pantyhose went viral on media and social networks, accompanied by ironic remarks. “Wait. My daughter comes home every day from school in torn tights, but never leaves the house in them. Is she spending $ 190 on the purchase? I can’t find censorship words”, - quoted The Sun one of the comments.
The same flurry of discussions was caused by the Off-White collection of the spring-summer 2020 season called "Meteor Shower", with the main ideas of which the founder and creative director Virgil Abloh continues to work to this day. Then he made holes in dresses, T-shirts, trousers, gloves and even bracelets, but most importantly - a bag, thereby changing the idea of the product's purpose. The bag has ceased to be a functional wardrobe item in which you can put all the necessary things (the same was tried by Simon Port Jacquemus, who released the Le Chiquito model, which barely fits a couple of coins). Now it is a props for photo shoots on Instagram or an art object that attracts attention no worse than a crocodile leather jacket or diamonds. “The Meteor bag is probably the ultimate status symbol. An accessory for a woman who doesn't need to wear anything ",- thought the author of Vogue Emily Farrah.
1 of 5 Leaky Off-White baseball cap from the fall-winter 2020/21 collection © press service Leaky tag on off-white jeans from the resort 2021 collection © press service Leaky Off-White t-shirt from the spring-summer 2020 collection © press -service Leaky gloves Off-White from the collection of the season spring-summer 2020 © press service Bag Meteor, Off-White © press service
Punk Virgil Abloh, who confirmed that the bag is completely impractical, still cheated. Meteor went on sale with an inner pouch for safe storage. In the same way, other designer items with holes can be adapted to everyday life: for example, put on a Prada turtleneck not on a naked body, as Jennifer Lopez did on the cover of American Elle, but on a one-piece jumper or sleeveless dress. Those who find even such a combination too extravagant and who cannot feel as confident in it as Regina George, the main character of the movie "Mean Girls", are invited to remember the good old tattered jeans that appeared at the Celine spring / summer show. The main thing is not to get caught in them by mom and grandmother.
The meticulous cutting of holes in clothing, reminiscent of the process of creating paper snowflakes for the New Year, is not just pampering or hype that certainly helps to attract new audiences and increase brand sales. As with the Meteor bag, this is a way to expand the concept of luxury, which is especially relevant in the face of the coronavirus pandemic. Recently, clothing has become a form of self-care: now it is not how we look in it that matters, but how we feel in it. Therefore, the strict is replaced more and more massively by the relaxed, fitted - voluminous, synthetic - natural, and the whole - full of holes, if it seems to someone more convenient and appropriate.
However, fashion today is driven not only by the coronavirus pandemic. The tendentiousness of careless things can also be associated with the promotion of environmental care. By showing them on the world catwalk and on the covers of gloss, the industry convinces us not to throw away clothes that have become unusable, and not to litter the already full garbage dumps. Interestingly, in order to stop causing damage to nature, deliberately dirty denim also came into fashion. In the fall-winter 2021/22 collections, the designers of the brands 1017 ALYX 9SM, Reese Cooper and Rhude seem to remind that one washing of jeans in a typewriter requires several tens of liters of water. In addition, frequent washing shortens the life of the garment and leads to the purchase of new ones, which exacerbates the overproduction of clothing, also leaving a negative ecological footprint.
1 of 12 Bag Off-White, 46 650 rubles. (TSUM) © press service Victoria Beckham trousers, $ 484 (olivela.com) © press service MM6 Maison Margiela turtleneck, 49 250 rub. (TSUM) © press service Prada turtleneck, 75,000 rubles. (Prada) © press service Burberry jumper, 54,400 rubles. (Burberry) © Press Service Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Jumper, 33,050 rubles. (TSUM) © press service Jumper IRO, 13 900 rubles. (theoutnet.com) © press service Stefan Cooke jumper, 57,440 rubles. (matchesfashion.com) © press service Maison Margiela vest, 93 195 rubles. (farfetch.com) © press service Maison Margiela jumper, 36,028 rubles. (farfetch.com) © press service Cardigan MSGM, 41,850 rubles. (TSUM) © press service Balenciaga sweater, 110,500 rubles. (aizel.ru) © press service
The question of why buy torn or dirty clothes, if they will eventually become such, will not be unfair. You can answer it with the words of designer Jonathan Anderson that today customers need not only a product, but also "an original point of view, inseparable from morality." Plus, for many, buying eccentric items from luxury brands is an act of hedonism. This, in part, explains the popularity of collaborations that never cease to saturate the market with designer condoms, pasta and water bottles.>