The answer seems to be obvious: after spending three days at Pitti Fragranze, you can understand how the fragrant world will live in the next twelve months. So, 2017 will be held under the sign of incense - there were really a lot of incense compositions in Florence. We seem again pleased to zero when the perfumer Bertrand Duchafour virtually arrogated to itself the incense as a personal perfume shade palette was the best incense scents decade: Avignon and Kyoto for Comme des Garçons, Timbuktu and Dzongkha for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Jubilation for the XXV Amouage … Filippo Sorcinelli from UNUM, for example, brought to the exhibition as many as three compositions on the same topic, although something of the kind was expected from him: Sorcinelli is not only an organist and hereditary owner of an atelier in which cassocks are sewn for the Pope, but also the author of LAVS - the most cold and chilling the soul of incense of recent years.
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In general, it is always interesting to observe the change in trends - perfumery trends, like fashionable ones, are always part of something larger and do not appear from scratch. Aquatic compositions popular twenty years ago - pure and transparent perfume with notes of water and ozone - became a detox after the “poisonous” 1980s, which spawned the HIV epidemic and the first serious wave of crack. The avalanche of ouds sweeping over store shelves is the market's reaction to a new economic force, Middle Eastern oil capital. Now everyone is interested in incense: the cold breath of the church, essentially the aromatic profile of Christianity. I asked the representative of the Heeley brand, who brought to Pittione of the best incense of this year, Eau Sacre, what he thinks about this, and received a rather unexpected comment: “The popularity of incense as a note is the response of the Western perfumery world to religious contradictions with the world of the East. Frankincense is the smell of our childhood when we were taken to church on Sundays. The smell of our cultural identity."
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From less political news: the perfume rose has almost "faded", but they give a lot of lilies and tuberose. With the latter, everything is clear - this is one of the loudest and most memorable notes. You need to listen to some modest violet perfume, you need to consider them and twirl them in your hands until they thaw. But in today's densely populated perfume shelf, as Christophe Servacel, founder of Atelier Cologne, once said, a new fragrance has only one chance to quickly and firmly hook someone.
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This is all working. And now human. Pitti Fragranze is a great way to explore Florence in a way that a tourist rarely does: not with your eyes, but with your nose. The exhibition takes place at the old train station Stazione Leopolda - there are exhibitors' stands and a lecture hall. But Pitti - tied events are held all over the city: they lead excursions in the botanical garden of Giardino dei Semplici, throw decadent parties in old palazzo, give organ concerts in the Basilica of San Miniato (at the instrument of Filippo Sorcinelli, whose incense you wore as an order, all summer). At Pittiyour nose comes to life and briskly goes into sport mode. Aromas alone are not enough for him - all of Florence turns for him into a huge, fragrant head of cheese with narrow passages, streets that must be explored. In the evening, finding fifteen kilometers along the exhibition pavilion, you cheerfully run to the famous "sniffer" bar Procacci. This is a vertical pencil case with a dark wood rack, where you are greeted by a special atmospheric front - layered clouds of noble wine fumes and the ascending currents of mushroom spirit above the display case with truffle sandwiches.
Procacci Bar © facebook.com/Procacci1885
Those who don't drink are poured vigorous tomato juice with pepper: you've already forgotten that a tomato can smell like this, or maybe it's just your nose that finally remembered how to sniff properly. After Procacci you go to the hotel along the Arno promenade. It's evening, especially still heat, and Arno smells like any city river in the heat, but you even like it. The smell, after all, is no worse than a pile of horse dung with a blooming flower, which Maison Incens presents at the exhibition as the last word in animalics. Nice smell, Florentine.>