2020 kicked off with a fight against "toxic masculinity" by Gucci. Before the fall-winter 2020/21 collection show, the Italian brand published a manifesto explaining that the masculine model imposed on babies from birth was formed through violent stereotypes and often promotes dominance, oppression and the desire to win, and all kinds of references to femininity are considered a threat "Ideal macho", therefore, aggressively opposed by the public. “However, this drift is not natural,” concluded the brand. - It's time to greet a man free in self-determination and free from social restrictions. A man who can reunite with his own fragility, trepidation and tenderness."
In Lirika Matoshi dress, 2020 © instagram.com/lirika.matoshi
It is not surprising that the main influencer of this year, according to the Lyst platform, which makes ratings based on user search queries, is the one who wears dresses more elegant than many women, walks evenly (and even dances) in heels, is photographed in mesh tights on a naked body and paints nails in rainbow colors.
Gucci spotted Harry Styles when he left the luscious British boy label One Direction to pursue a solo career in both music and cinema (for example, starring in Christopher Nolan's Dunkirk). The artist, who usually rejects offers not directly related to his work, agreed to star in advertising campaigns under the direction of creative director Alessandro Michele: first dedicated to costumes, then to the fragrance Mémoire d'une Odeur and finally to a new ready-to-wear collection shown in within the brand festival.
1 of 10 Gucci Cruise Suit 2019 Campaign © gucci.com Gucci Cruise Suit 2019 Campaign © gucci.com Gucci Cruise Suit 2019 Campaign © gucci.com Gucci Cruise Suit 2019 Campaign © gucci. com In the advertising campaign for the Gucci Fall-Winter 2018/19 collection © gucci.com In the advertising campaign for the Gucci Pre-Fall 2019 collection © gucci.com In the advertising campaign for the Gucci Fall-Winter 2018/19 collection © gucci.com In the advertising campaign Gucci Pre-Fall 2019 costume collection © gucci.com In advertising campaign for Gucci Pre-Fall 2019 costume collection © gucci.com Harry Styles in the third mini-film shown as part of Gucci Fest © instagram.com/gucci
Filming accompanied by dogs, chickens and piglets, which is persistently brought to the set by the author of many Gucci campaigns Glen Lachford, is not limited to. The fashion house sews costumes for Harry Styles' performances, guided by his vision and his mood board with photos of Prince, Freddie Mercury, David Bowie, Elvis Presley and another "Gucci friend" Elton John. Hence - baroque blouses, flared trousers and jackets with so many sequins that you will not wear even for a New Year's corporate party.
1 of 12 Wearing a Gucci suit at the 2018 world tour © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci suit at a show at Madison Square Garden, 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci suit at a world tour, 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Givenchy suit on a world tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Charles Jeffrey Loverboy suit on a world tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci suit on a show World Tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Calvin Klein 205W39NYC suit at a World Tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci suit at a World Tour 2018 © instagram.com / harry_lambert Wearing a Harris Reed blouse on a world tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci suit on a world tour 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a modernized Scottish suit on a world tour, 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert In Palomo Spain costume during the world tour, 2018 © instagram.com/harry_lambert
During the coronavirus pandemic, as concerts have moved from the Madison Square Garden stage to the artist's home in London's Hampstead and streamed online, the Italian brand is supplying him with catwalk total looks: corduroy pants, striped shirts, pet vests and knitted sweaters with the Mon Petit wordmark. ("My little"). Styles also appears in Gucci clothes in videos, which work almost better than targeted promo shoots due to the fact that they are watched by about 150 million people. According to Lyst, within 24 hours of the release of the music video for the song "Golden", views of blue and turquoise jackets (such as the one from Gucci that Styles danced in one scene) increased by 52%.
1 из 7 В пиджаке и рубашке Gucci в клипе на пенсю Golden © Скриншот В винтажном жилете и очках в клипе на песню Watermelon Sugar © Скриншот В ожерелье éliou в клипе на песню Golden © Скриншот В шарфе, джемпере и джинсах Gucci в клипе на песню Watermelon Sugar © Скриншот В рубашке и перчатках Gucci в клипе на пенсю Golden © Скриншот В винтажном жилете в клипе на песню Watermelon Sugar © Скриншот В пальто Bode в клипе на песню Adore You © instagram.com/harry_lambert
The courage to wear traditionally feminine and deliberately infantile clothes as opposed to white T-shirts, black shirts, trousers with suspenders and classic tuxedos, which visually increased the age of the underage sex symbol, was added to Styles by stylist Harry Lambert. He usually takes a deep and meticulous approach to composing images, as can be seen in the example of his client, actress Emma Corrin, who played Princess Diana in the fourth season of the series "Crown". For the premiere, which each of the Netflix members met at home, he ordered a plaid blouse and leggings for Corrin from Miu Miu, inspired by Siegfried's costume from Swan Lake. However, in working with the namesake of wardrobe affairs, the master learns to relate to fashion easier. “Harry is just having fun with his clothes. He doesn't take her too seriously. That's where I got it from,”Lambert says.
Styles confirms the stylist's words: “Clothes are for fun, experimentation and play. As soon as you stop following the principles that "there are clothes for men and there are clothes for women", as soon as you remove all barriers, you open up an arena where you can play. Sometimes I walk into a store and find myself looking at women's clothes and thinking how amazing they are."
Styles' sister Gemma, who grabbed a piece of his popularity in the form of more than six million subscribers, says that his attitude to clothes as a way to have fun was passed on to him from his mother. “My mom loved to dress up. I hated it, and Harry was carried away. She made really elaborate papier-mâché costumes, like a giant mug with satin painted on it, and Harry was the World Cup in it. Harry also had a little Dalmatian outfit given by family friends. He spent a lot of time in these clothes, so my mother decided to dress me up in Cruella de Ville."
The brother, in turn, recalls Barney's church mouse costume and the tights he wore “when he was young”: “I looked at these tights and thought - this is crazy. And it is possible that it all started with them."
1 of 5 Wearing a Marc Jacobs suit at The BRIT Awards afterparty, 2020 © instagram.com/harry_lambert Wearing a Gucci blouse and pants at the Met Gala, 2019 © Sean Zanni / Patrick McMullan via Getty Images Wearing a Gucci suit and shoes at The BRIT ceremony Awards, 2020 © Karwai Tang / WireImage In a Lanvin vest and pants at SiriusXM and Pandora event, 2020 © Kevin Mazur / Getty Images for SiriusXM In a Gucci jumper and pants on SiriusXM radio, 2020 © Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images
However, the images of Harry Styles, as well as his position in relation to expressing himself, seem extraordinary to many. New York Times author Candice Owens, known for her public support for Donald Trump's policies and criticism of the Democratic Party and the Black Lives Matter social movement, condemned the artist's photo shoot as the first man on the cover of American Vogue (he naturally posed in dresses). “There is no society that can survive without strong men. The East knows this. In the West, there is a constant feminization of our men, and at the same time this Marxism is being taught to our children. This is not a coincidence. This is a direct attack,”she wrote on Twitter.
"You're pathetic," actress Olivia Wilde defended Styles, who was immediately supported by other celebrities. Among them, for example, the star of the trilogy "The Lord of the Rings" Elijah Wood. “I think you missed the point that masculinity alone does not make a man a man,” he wrote back to Candice Owens.
1 of 5 In a Marc Jacobs X Magda Archer sweater at the Ellen DeGeneres Show, 2019 © Screenshot At the James Corden Show, 2019 © Screenshot In a Bode shirt for an interview with Zane Lowe, 2019 © Screenshot In a Lanvin coat at the James Corden Show, 2019 © Screenshot In a Gucci sweater at NPR Music concert, 2020 © Screenshot
Popularizing the fight against toxic masculinity (and toxicity in general) is not the only merit of Harry Styles. In addition to the turquoise jacket, Lyst recorded a 92% increase in interest in the yellow panama from the Golden video and the multi-colored cardigan in which the singer appeared at The Today Show rehearsal by 166%. More specifically, searches for the item that JW Anderson used the patchwork technique to create did not increase after Harry Styles' speech, but after the #HarryStylesCardigan challenge launched on TikTok. In it, the singer's fans tried to make a similar cardigan with their own hands, returning hand-made fashion during the quarantine.
"It's amazing. The power of craft,”wrote Jonathan Anderson, shocked that videos with the hashtag #HarryStylesCardigan have accumulated over 40 million views to date. Even more surprising was the fact that the cardigan was included in the permanent collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and is now adjacent to the works of Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy. According to the press service of the cultural institution, this choice was made because the cardigan has become the embodiment of the current trend for environmentally friendly fashion.
Harry Styles supports the environment not only indirectly, but also directly: most of the outfits from the Watermelon Sugar video, including a knitted orange vest and sunglasses in the shape of hearts, were bought at flea markets. In the same place, the singer is looking for T-shirts, which he mixes with a pearl bead necklace from the young brand éliou and trousers with drawings by designer Emily Adams Bode. Some T-shirts are adorned with positive, ironic and life-affirming slogans that are simply impossible not to love Styles: "Women are smarter", "Enjoy your health, eat your honey" and "Why is being racist, sexist, homophobic and transphobic better than just quiet?"
By the way, he speaks out against homophobia with the help of clothes with rainbow prints - for example, merch in support of his song “Treat People with Kindness”. Although in the case of Harry Styles, the non-verbal demarche encompasses a broader phenomenon than LGBTQ +. The artist once again talks about the need to leave others alone and give them the opportunity to just be themselves. And this is the main thing for which he is recognized as the voice of modern fashion.
1. Bode jacket
2. Acne Studios shirt
3. Gucci vest
4. Gucci bag
5. Gucci jeans
6. Saint Laurent boots
7. éliou necklace
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