Elena Stafieva
The out-of-competition premiere of the film "The King" by David Michaud based on the historical chronicles of Shakespeare about Henry V. The main role - in fact, first of the prince and then of King Henry V - was played by Timothy Chalamet at the Venice Film Festival. As expected, he appeared first at the press conference, and then at the premiere - in two gray suits made for him by Haider Ackermann. Well, that is, like costumes. Of course, Haider Ackermann does not have strictly conventional formal men's suits, and here Haider made two outfits in two light shades of gray - aluminum and lavender-dusty pink. In the afternoon, Timothy appeared in a voluminous long bomber jacket, aquamarine shirt and tight trousers, and in the evening - in a narrow jacket with satin lapels, belted by a sash, and rather loose pants rolled over high black boots. Both kits wereabsolutely gorgeous, I must say, and Timothy's outputs, in terms of fashion and style, are the best in Venice this year. Well, the actor himself, dressed in Haider Ackermann, looked just crazy and was the most fashionable in Venice, which was full of stars.
About which I, in general, wrote on my Facebook, posting photos of Timothy. This post collected a very decent number of likes and enthusiasm for Haider for my quiet account, but some readers, moreover, quite advanced, praising, said: of course, it is beautiful, but all this would look even better on us with them, that is, on women.
At this point, the reader is waiting for the "rose" rhyme - that is, discussions about gender ambivalence, about the blurring of the boundaries between masculine and feminine in modern fashion, and the defusing power of women's clothing on men (which I wrote about in my reply on my page). With some insights into the work of Michele and Gvasalia, as well as the personal style of Marc Jacobs and Ezra Miller. But no, this will not happen here, we have already given this rhyme to our reader 100 times. And there will be another - also quite obvious, but in the current circumstances has revealed new meanings.
© Daniele Venturelli / WireImage
We live in a cliché - and yes, a truism. But reflection on how this truism is realized in life sometimes makes one go beyond the framework of these clichés. For example, Timothy Chalamet is now the main American actor of the 20-year-old generation. Handsome boy, Oscar nomination, great projects, luxurious career. But in conversations like the one above around Chalamet, there is always a certain halo: yes - beautiful, of course, but somehow feminine. Not for us, in general. And the point here is not in sexual orientation, that is, not only in her (Timothy, for example, meets with girls, but he probably likes both girls and guys alike), but that he is very thin, fragile, graceful (sash his costume perfectly emphasized his waist), with white delicate skin - how can adult women like such? Only men should like them. And women should like Brad Pitt.
But even discussing Timothy's acting in The King, serious Russian critics write that, of course, he is gifted and plays well on the whole, he tries, but somehow strange, to imagine the English King Henry V of Lancaster, known for his will, bravery, intelligence and strength, just such a graceful young man, even though he was even of a similar type.
© kinopoisk.ru
And it is precisely these clichés that seem to me completely outdated and even harmful. Just like the idea that there is a certain "type", which fits everyone who likes, who is drawn to, who can wear a silk sash or play the king. In short, I think that Timothy Chalamet and Brad Pitt are not a tough alternative, they are in the same space of possibilities, and there is no opposition here. And I also think that a sash on a thin male waist emphasizes not the femininity of its owner, but quite the opposite.
Of course, the power of these cliches is well felt by both the cultural characters mentioned here - director David Michaud and designer Haider Ackermann. They do not just feel it, but they emphasize it in every possible way, use it, play with it - moreover, without it, neither one nor the other would have succeeded. By dressing Timothy, Ackermann fuses stereotypical notions of masculinity and femininity in the same way he connects loose silk pants and high boots - in a way that is not the most familiar way - and that's why this look works so cool. He never pinches, does not put on Timothy not only his favorite soft embroidered sleepers, but also too heavy and rough boots. Everything on it is very refined, but at the same time, references to the men's and women's wardrobe are clearly visible. Michaud knows the history of cinema and understandswhat the audience imagine in this role, if not Laurence Olivier, then at least Tom Hiddleston. It is these expectations that he uses when choosing Timothy and, in essence, telling us this: Do you really think that a handsome slender young man cannot chop off heads and win the Battle of Agincourt? But why? Do you really think that if someone likes Brad Pitt, they may not like Timothy? - I will add.
© Dave J Hogan / Getty Images
The modern world is increasingly subject to diversity - and this is also already obvious and said more than once, even by me. But the power of the cliché is still strong in him, and the clash of these two opposing forces gives us such phenomena as Timothy Chalamet, built on the game with prejudices and standards. But the game is subtle, witty, without any excesses and farce. And in this clash - after the fierce demarcation of traditional and non-traditional, understandable and incomprehensible, male and female - a rather interesting period begins when we no longer have to choose one thing.
The opinion of the author may not coincide with the opinion of the editorial board.>