In 2018, Quartzy wondered why streetwear isn't considered part of the fashion industry. The author notes that many brands do not want to be associated with this phenomenon, suspecting that streetwear is the lot of designers with limited imagination who can only produce hoodies and T-shirts with slogans. Some see the concept as an unpleasant racist connotation. The article quotes the founder of New York-based Pyer Moss brand Kirby Jean-Raymond: “I want to understand what“street”means in this definition. Does it mean clothes or me? " According to the author, the phenomenon that emerged from various subcultures and was originally a niche, designed for a very small audience, has become so replicated that an inevitable crisis awaits it. The article ends with the question of what streetwear will become in the future.
A year later, men's fashion is still dominated by streetwear brands and things that visually resemble work or army uniforms. Naturally, a shift should occur in the near future that will change this alignment. But the costume, although it has turned into a fashion statement, is unlikely to set a new bar and become widespread. Being a modern dandy is expensive, and in the opinion of the majority, it is still inconvenient and impractical. Still, to wear a suit, you need to have a certain background, skills - what the French call the capacious phrase savoir-faire. And things in the preppy style are quite a possible analogue of sweatshirts, sweatshirts and oversized T-shirts.
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How the preppy style formed in the USA in the 40s. Its name comes from the English pre-college preparatory. The school uniform of young people preparing in these institutions for admission to the Ivy League universities was strictly regulated, and over time it was she who became associated with the image of the student as a whole.
Some of the main promoters of preppy aesthetics on the global fashion scene are POLO brands Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers and Tommy Hilfiger. Practically in each of their advertising campaigns, an exemplary set of argyle cages, club jackets and things in a nautical theme is collected. In November 2018, a collaboration between Ralph Lauren and skate brand Palace was unveiled. The sweaters from the collection wore a teddy bear skateboarder. This collaboration perfectly demonstrates the growing bond between the streetwear world and the preppy style.
Recent men's fashion weeks have shown that more and more brands are turning to this aesthetic. They are completely diverse, with many of them being favorite brands of millennials - the main buyers of streetwear. It is no coincidence that Virgil Abloh filmed the Off-White pre-fall lookbook within the walls of the school: the models clearly refer to the preppy style. At the same time, Abloh still retains the codes familiar to him and his fans: logos, oversize, symbols - everything is in place. The Off-White men's fall / winter collection also has plenty of plaid, sporty jackets and trousers paired with sweatshirts emblazoned with lettering reminiscent of university logos.
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One of the features of preppy is that this style contains many different components. It has a bit of yachting, rugby and even safari, but the most important thing is uniforms, albeit more complex in content. Due to all these references, preppy perfectly intersects both with sports fashion and with things that are emphasized strict, and quite gets along with logomania. What difference does it make if the shirt has the symbol of a fashionable street brand or the coat of arms of an educational institution.
The American brand Rowing Blazers is talented with the fashion heritage of preparatory schools - an example of how preppy aesthetics easily fit into our time, and formal things can be relaxed and attract a young audience.
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Here every detail is verified: a bright palette, interesting combinations, funny labels and stripes, high-quality materials. The designers even paid attention to the seamy side: some items are decorated with embroidered Latin inscriptions. The rugby polo is painted in rainbow colors, and the seemingly strict jacket has cuffs in different shades. In addition, Rowing Blazers attracts popular brands for cooperation: Beams Plus, Tracksmith, Shaggy Dog, Noah and a dozen other brands.
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Actually, this is the huge advantage of preppy: even the most ordinary things can be transformed and transformed, look bold and even catchy, or remain calm, look exactly the same as they did several decades ago. This is such a well-established classic that it can be viewed from a variety of angles, and at the output you will get exactly the picture you want. Polos, simple beige trousers, navy blue blazers with monograms - all this is akin to a white sheet: an endless field for experimentation with minimal risk of making a mistake.
For a long time, preppy clothing made it possible to distinguish between friends and strangers and was associated with a privileged class. However, today these things are available to the majority and are a continuation of streetwear.
Aimé Leon Dore, Maison Kitsuné, Noah, Needles and other brands are increasingly introducing preppy elements into their collections. Polos with short and long sleeves, decorated with delicate embroidery, chinos and shorts, bombers, knee socks, straight jeans with wide cuffs in the company of penny loafers, neat collars - these are what you can see in lookbooks in the summer of 2019.
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The collaboration between Moncler Genius and Japanese designer, musician and producer Hiroshi Fujiwara looks especially successful in this regard. It strikes the perfect balance between the formal and the relaxed, and there is absolutely nothing constraining or depersonalizing. After all, this is usually what is criticized for any uniform. The 2019 preppy looks casual like shorts with an oversized sweatshirt. But in addition to the notorious comfort, there is a silhouette, which does not hide, but frames the figure, texture and variety. In these things you can go not only to a Saturday party, but also to work or a business meeting.
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Chinos, shirts, oversized sweaters with braids and bright piping around the neckline, soft leather loafers and brightly colored duffle coats suit everyone, regardless of age, physique, social status and other factors. In addition, it seems that in the very phenomenon of preppy lies the answers to the questions of how to look modern, fit into a working dress code, not feel discomfort and not be like an office worker.
“Dressing preppy means looking perfect without any effort,” said writer Eric Segal. Ultimately, isn't that what the average man wants? Look good with a minimum of energy and financial costs.>