The Geneva Watch Days had barely ended when the Watches & Wonders salon opened in Shanghai's West Bund Art Center.
Access to the exhibition complex is carried out strictly by invitation and with strict observance of sanitary measures.
The program includes 11 brands: in addition to the eight brands that are part of the Richemont Group, the collections were presented by the Parmigiani Fleurier house (owned by the Sandoz Foundation) and the independent Geneva manufacturer Purnell, which specializes exclusively in tourbillon watches.
A.Lange & Söhne
The prestigious German manufactory celebrates 175 years of watchmaking in Saxony. Three special watch models from the “1815” family are dedicated to Ferdinand Adolf Lange, who established the tradition of precision watchmaking in Glashütte. In 1845, together with 15 apprentices, he founded a small production, where he first applied specialized labor. His pocket watch firm was so successful that at some point the residents of Glashütte chose Ferdinand Adolf Lange as their mayor. The A.Lange & Söhne manufactory still produces some of the most sophisticated and high-precision movements.
Three novelties of 2020 - a classic two-hand watch "1815", a split-chronograph (100 items) and a super-complicated watch Turbograph Perpetual (50 items) - combines a case made of "honey" gold alloy Honeygold. All three calibers, regardless of the presence and number of complications, are examples of the highest technical and aesthetic excellence - this can be seen by turning the watch backwards. And, of course, A. Lange & Söhne specialists are unsurpassed masters of readable dials: the most complex caliber receives a clear and understandable indication. The Turbograph Perpetual Honeygold combines split chronograph functions, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with moon phases plus a fuse gear.
1 of 4 Watches 1815 Thin Honeygold, Homage to FA Lange, A. Lange & Söhne © Press Office Complicated Turbograph Perpetual Honeygold, Homage to FA Lange, A. Lange & Söhne © Press Service Chronograph 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, Homage to FA Lange, A. Lange & Söhne © Press Office
The Schaffhausen-based manufactory is expanding the Portugieser line (the online presentation at W&W in April was entirely dedicated to the Portuguese). The sports chronograph is released in an all-steel garment. Not only the case with a diameter of 41 mm is made of stainless metal, but also the bracelet. It's amazing how the automatic Portugieser chronograph, invented some 30 years ago, has existed on a leather strap all these years. Now equipped with the new caliber 69355, this watch will be even more comfortable and versatile.
“Stainless steel is a durable and practical material for everyday use, resistant to corrosion, moisture, sweat and sea water,” says IWC head Christoph Granger-Herr. By the way, a steel bracelet with a folding clasp is available as an add-on to all models in the Portugieser Chronograph collection.
Portugieser Chronograph, IWC Schaffhausen
In July, the Fleurier-based manufacturer showed the updated Tonda line. Round classic watches have acquired the features of sport casual style, and in the spirit of Gran Turismo. The premiere of a chronograph in pink gold with a blue dial was reserved for Shanghai - until now there was only a steel Tondagraph GT, and in a precious version a Tonda GT with three hands was released. In addition to the clou triangulaire (triangular nail) guilloche rubber strap, there is also a model on a gold bracelet. Both were issued in the amount of 25 copies worth € 41 thousand and € 65.5 thousand, respectively. The automatic caliber of the integrated chronograph also operates the annual calendar and big date function.
Chronograph Tondagraph GT, Parmigiani Fleurier
The combination of rose gold with a bright blue dial is also found at Vacheron Constantin. Back in April, the oldest watch manufacturer presented the Overseas sports watch with a perpetual calendar: all counters and indicators of the moon phases were located on a blue lacquer background. Now this deep color reveals itself in all its glory: on the dial of the new Overseas Automatique, in addition to the three hands, the logo with the Maltese cross and the hour indices, there is only a small date window. As with all Overseas watches, the rose gold bracelet can be quickly replaced with a rubber or leather strap.
1 of 3 Overseas Automatique watches, Vacheron Constantin © press service Overseas Automatique watches, Vacheron Constantin © press service Overseas Automatique watches, Vacheron Constantin © press service
The most extravagant brand Richemont at Watches & Wonders is clearly responsible for the "miracles". The sophisticated Excalibur watch with its signature double tourbillon has tried on a precious decoration of 600 blue sapphires and diamonds. The palladium and white gold case is inlaid with a blue and white pattern, as well as the bezel and lugs of the strap - this work took 420 hours. Each stone received a custom cut in the form of a tetrahedron, and then grooves were applied to its surface for invisible setting. The recognizable star in the skeletonized caliber RD108SQ is also trimmed with diamonds. The full setting of Excalibur Superbia took 1,300 hours. At the same time, the novelty does not cease to be a man's watch. Its cost is $ 858.5 thousand.
1 of 3 Excalibur Superbia watches, Roger Dubuis © press service Excalibur Superbia, Roger Dubuis © press service Back side of Excalibur Superbia watches, Roger Dubuis © press service
The Watches & Wonders Salon in Shanghai runs until September 13.>