Starting from the 1960s, on the screen and in life, Catherine Deneuve, by personal example, proves that leopard print can be laconic, restrained, appropriate, and there is not a drop of vulgarity in it. Consider her leopard-trimmed coat in 8 Women, or the raincoat she wore for Hedi Slimane's Celine show this year.
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According to the fashion universe of Catherine Deneuve, there can't be too many bows. If the bodice of the dress is decorated with one large bow, nothing prevents you from putting on the second one, a little more modest.
This detail is one of the favorite techniques of the actress. She tied her hair with bows, used it as a belt, tie and other accessories. A separate category is the so-called pussycat bow blouse - blouses with long sleeves and bows on the chest, very fashionable in the 1970s and 1980s.
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With age, Catherine Deneuve's love for this detail has noticeably weakened. Today, the only bows you can see will be on the toes of the actress's shoes.
Catherine Deneuve's looks from the late 1960s and early 1970s cannot be imagined without a fitted ribbed turtleneck. She wore them with trapezoid skirts, tucked them into wide trousers, but especially successful combinations of turtlenecks, sustained in a strict palette, and large sunglasses with brightly colored lenses.
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Hats & Hair Accessories
From colorful silk squares to frivolous velvet bows and ribbons, from French berets and caps to bohemian wide-brimmed hats and men's bowlers. Deneuve wears any headwear so that her images never look either redundant or infantile.
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The iconic painting by Luis Bunuel made Catherine Deneuve a style icon. Beauty of the Day is an adaptation of a novel by French writer Joseph Kessel, first published in the magazine Gringoire in 1928. According to the plot of the film, Severin Serizi, a wealthy representative of the bourgeois class, out of boredom goes to work in a brothel, where she spends time from 2 pm to 5 pm while her husband is in his office.
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It was with this picture that the strong friendship between Catherine Deneuve and Yves Saint Laurent began. Decades after the release of "Beauty of the Day" on the screens, Deneuve noted that the film received cult status largely thanks to the costumes of Severina, which were created by the designer. One of the iconic objects of the painting is a closed black dress with a white collar, reminiscent of a maid's uniform. After the release of the film, these dresses became incredibly popular and were called Belle de jour - the "day beauty" dress.
Deneuve can be called a popularizer of European fashion on the world stage. Over the years, she was connected not only by work, but also by friendship with many European designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, André Courrez, Roger Vivier and many others.
The designer often creates outfits for official events where the actress appears (for example, for the Cannes Film Festival). Deneuve is an indispensable guest of almost all of his shows, and in 2011 she even took to the catwalk as a model.
During a large exhibition of the designer at the Grand Palais in 2015, a recording of Catherine Deneuve's voice was used in one of the halls as the soundtrack of the exhibition.
Catherine Deneuve and Jean-Paul Gaultier
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Gold hoop earrings
There are many interesting pieces of jewelry and design art in Deneuve's jewelry collection, but laconic hoop earrings of large and small caliber should be singled out in a separate category. If you want to create an image that most closely matches what Deneuve looked like in the 1970s, you definitely cannot do without such jewelry.
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Yves Saint Laurent
This creative union was as strong as the friendship between Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn. It is believed that the acquaintance of the designer and the actress took place during the filming of "Beauty of the Day", but in fact they first crossed paths back in 1965. The actress really liked the looks that Saint Laurent was offering at the time and asked him to do something special for a reception in London where the queen was supposed to be present. Then the designer willingly responded to the request and created a dress with an embroidered red bib. After that, Saint Laurent made another dress for the actress - for the event dedicated to the film "Girls of Rochefort", in which Deneuve played with her sister Françoise Dorleac.
Especially for "Beauty of the Day," Saint Laurent took as a basis the elements characteristic of his collections of that time, and developed things that fit perfectly into the context of the painting. The designer worked especially well with the palette. For example, at first we see Severin in modest shades - gray, beige, but as the plot develops, her outfits become more provocative, and leather and vinyl raincoats, in which the main character appears, hint at images in the sadomaso style.
In an interview with Paris Match, Catherine Deneuve said about Yves Saint Laurent: “I was neither his closest friend, nor a muse like Loulou de la Falaise. We exchanged words and colors. When we saw each other, it was great. " And during the last show of the designer, held on January 22, 2002 at the Pompidou Center, Deneuve told him that he alone was the most significant love story in her life.
Leather raincoats are a few that have survived in Deneuve's wardrobe since the 1960s. Brown, black or burgundy, of patent and matte leather, trimmed with fur or with a bright lining, in the company of pointed ballet shoes and stiletto heels, with short skirts and loose trousers. This wardrobe item is as strongly associated with the actress as the wicker basket is with Jane Birkin.
Catherine Deneuve and Yves Saint Laurent © Bertrand Rindoff Petroff / Getty Images
Catherine Deneuve has a long history of relationship with Louis Vuitton. The actress has repeatedly become the heroine of advertising campaigns for the French house, including the large-scale project Core Values, which existed from 2007 to 2012. It was directed by Anne Leibovitz, and Louis Vuitton's creative director at the time was Marc Jacobs, a big fan of Deneuve. Mikhail Gorbachev, Sofia and Francis Ford Coppola, Sean Connery, Keith Richards and other stars of the musical, sports and cinematographic Olympus also took part in the advertising campaign.
In life, Catherine Deneuve also chooses Louis Vuitton bags. She has a rather impressive collection, which includes both the classic accessories of the brand and more avant-garde models such as bags, which were designed in 2017 by Jeff Koons.
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Mink coats, bright-colored astrakhan coat, chinchilla-trimmed coat, hats in the best traditions of the 1970s. Fashion for eco-materials has never been close to Catherine Deneuve. She loves fur in all its forms and knows how to wear it really beautifully.
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Catherine Deneuve is a real advocate for low heels. For most of her life, she preferred shoes with either flat or low heels: kitten heel (aka glass), steady square, cone heel, espadrilles, Mary-Jane shoes and, of course, ballet flats. All this perfectly matched the trapezoidal silhouettes, strict and clear lines of clothing that dominated the fashion of that era.
“We walk differently, we feel freedom, we feel emancipated and ready for any life challenges. Also, do not forget that in the 1960s, high-heeled shoes were worn only by women with a dubious reputation. They had to choose such shoes because of their 'profession', but in real life they looked like a caricature,”the actress said in 2013.
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Despite the fact that Deneuve criticized designers who create shoes with 12-centimeter stilettos, in which, in her opinion, it is impossible to take a couple of steps, today Deneuve herself often wears high-heeled shoes. Christian Louboutin and Maison Ernest boats are her constant companions not only at official events, but also in everyday life. However, she can often be seen in Tod's moccasins.
Oval shaped glasses
As Catherine Deneuve's style took shape in the late 1960s, her imagery has absorbed all the best that was at that time. Oval-frame sunglasses are one such example. The actress had many models in different colors, with bright or tinted lenses. In 1989, Deneuve even launched her own line of optics together with the Viva brand, which, however, included a variety of forms. Now you can buy such glasses only on Ebay. But the Marcolin Eyewear company has been creating frames dedicated to the actress for several years.
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This is the most popular silhouette of the 1960s, proposed by Saint Laurent in his debut collection for Christian Dior. In French, such dresses are called trois trous - with three holes. Catherine Deneuve was very fond of this model, so her wardrobe is unthinkable without a simple A-line dress, which she paired with low-heeled shoes.
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If today Roger Vivier bears the honorary title of Faberge of the world of shoes, then in the 1960s he was only in the process of building his empire. At the request of Saint Laurent, Vivier created shoes with low square heels with metal buckles, which were supposed to perfectly match the A-line dress, invented by the designer. The model of shoes made of patent artificial leather was named "Pilgrim".
This couple became iconic after Catherine Deneuve appeared in them, all in the same “Beauty of the Day”. After the release of the film on the screens, according to official data from Roger Vivier, the couple were sold in more than 200 thousand copies, and among the clients of the French brand were the Duchess of Windsor and Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis. In addition, the Pilgrims became the most copied pair of the 1960s.
A fragment of a frame from the film "Beauty of the Day" © kinopoisk.ru
One of the key fashion innovations of Saint Laurent is a women's tuxedo, which simply could not pass by his muse (no matter how modest Deneuve herself was). A jacket that echoes the lines of the body, trousers with a high waist, a white shirt buttoned up tightly, hair held back by a rim and, of course, a bow tie. In the same way, Deneuve starred in the ad for Chanel No. 5.
By the way, the love for androgynous, but at the same time sensual images, was passed on to her daughter Chiara Mastroianni. One of the most famous, and at the same time the best exits of the actress - Venice Film Festival 2016, where she was the chairman of the jury. Mastroianni appeared on the red carpet in a trouser suit from the Gucci men's collection.
Catherine Deneuve and Serge Gainsbourg © Jean Pimentel / Kipa / Sygma via Getty Images
The press calls Catherine Deneuve one of the main representatives of the neo-bourgeois style. The seat of power of the Parisian bohemian bourgeoisie in the 1970s was the Left Bank of the Seine. By the way, it was there that the legendary Saint Laurent store was located. An important element of this style was, is and remains a beige trench coat. Despite the fact that the most famous model belongs to the British brand Burberry, the trench coat is associated with Paris. Largely thanks to the cinema. Deneuve wore a trench coat (Burberry, of course) in Umbrellas Cherbourg, the movie that made her famous and still favors it in her daily life.
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From the 1960s to the present day, Deneuve has experimented a lot with hairstyles. Thin braids that form a tight bun, classic babette, lush pile, strict bob, shells, curls, hairpieces and much more. However, one of the actress's favorite hairstyles is the classic ponytail. Deneuve often did this, putting on a voluminous fur coat, an evening dress embroidered with bugles, and other things of increased elegance. Due to such a simple hairstyle, the images acquired a bit of important negligence: the actress looked perfect, but at the same time she did not get the impression that she spent a day at the training camp.
By the way, Catherine Deneuve is a brunette, and she changed her hair color when she started acting in films. In interviews with foreign publications, she often praises the hair products of Christophe Robin, her official colorist. The actress claims that it is thanks to this brand that her hair looks so good.
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Tights in vibrant colors or with psychedelic patterns are a product of 1960s fashion. They became popular at the same time as the miniskirt and held their place in the list of key trends for a long time. Catherine Deneuve was no exception and willingly wore these: in the photographs of the late 1960s and 1970s, she can often be seen in patterned tights, however, most often in black.
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The actress collaborated with almost all famous photographers of the 20th century and was even married to David Bailey, but one of the most interesting working unions she developed with Helmut Newton, who, in turn, shot a lot for Yves Saint Laurent.
Helmut Newton © Ron Galella / WireImage
As a print, applique and embroidery. It is natural that floral ornaments, which became popular in the 1960s and 1970s, could not be ignored by Catherine Deneuve. Long-sleeved blouses with puffy bows on the chest, midi skirts that she combined with high boots, white lace crochet dresses and all other variations on the theme of the world of botany are an important component of her style until today.
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Of course, Deneuve's wardrobe is not kept only in this color, but if you start looking at photos of the actress from the 1960s to the present, it becomes clear that she has an obvious weakness for black things.
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In the 1970s, Catherine Deneuve was the face of Chanel No. 5. At various times, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and other famous photographers of the 20th century worked on the campaign. Largely thanks to these shootings, and not to her work in films, Deneuve became famous in the United States: the videos that were shown on television were very popular.
The actress has an interesting relationship with fragrances. For example, in an interview with Into the gloss, Deneuve noted that she has a ritual: before starting work on a certain project, she chooses a new scent and uses only it throughout the entire filming process. In the same conversation, she names her favorite brands, including Francis Kurkdjian and Frederic Malle.
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Another old French house, of which Deneuve was a fan at the dawn of her career, is Hermès. In the photographs, the actress is often captured with Hermès Kelly and Hermès Bolide in ostrich leather, and since the 2000s, she also began to appear with Hermès Birkin.
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“You should try not to fight the passage of time too hard. Not that I enjoy it. I just don't see a particular problem in this,”says Catherine Deneuve about an age that is not easy for everyone to accept. Meanwhile, in the movie, Deneuve continues to play the roles of sensual women (take at least the picture "For Cigarettes"), and a few years ago she took part in the shooting of underwear. It is worth noting that Deneuve does all this very beautifully, in a manner peculiar only to her. The ability to grow up with dignity and change your style according to age is one of the many talents of the actress.
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Catherine Deneuve, who is often called the Snow Queen of French cinema, is a real treasure and in some way a symbol of her homeland. Her style, her manners, roles, presentation of herself can really be called a phenomenon. The actress even allowed herself to speak negatively about the Me too movement, but criticism bypassed her. Few of Deneuve's peers continue to actively act in films and take part in various projects. The actress herself skillfully combines a bohemian lifestyle, forays into the flea markets of Paris (she is a big fan of vintage and antiques) with filming and participating in the life of her own family.>