Creative Director At Cartier Watches - On Style Icons And Design Intuition

Creative Director At Cartier Watches - On Style Icons And Design Intuition
Creative Director At Cartier Watches - On Style Icons And Design Intuition

Video: Creative Director At Cartier Watches - On Style Icons And Design Intuition

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The current creative director of the Cartier watch division, Marie-Laure Sered, has twice crossed the threshold of the famous French house. For the first time back in 2002, at the very beginning of her career, and the second - in the fall of 2016, when she was invited as Deputy Director of the Watch Department (Marie-Laure worked for Harry Winston for 12 years). She managed to revive the main icons of Cartier: the women's "Panther" and the men's line Santos.

- How was the work on the updated Santos Dumont line different from last year's Santos launch?

- In 2018, the focus of our attention was the restrained elegance and ergonomics of watches, we completely revised the design of the square bezel and bracelet, offering a quick change system. This time, we wanted to create a comfortable and practical watch at an affordable price, although I usually don't talk about price. As a result, the small model costs € 2,900. But it retains the same details and the same sense of luxury as in the more expensive segment. The new quartz movement provides six years of battery life, twice as long as traditional quartz.

- But the new Santos de Cartier chronograph seems to continue the Santos style …

- Yes, that's why we immediately realized that it shouldn't have the usual two buttons, like the first Santos chronograph of 2004 had. Then Karol Forestier-Kazapi suggested making the Start / Stop button at the 9 o'clock position, that is, on the left side, and integrating the zeroing function into the crown. The result is a monopusher chronograph that continues the theme of the historical heritage of Cartier complex watches. The automatic caliber 1904-CH MC is an adaptation of the existing one, as opposed to the Tonneau Dual Time Zone movement, which was developed from the ground up.

- What became the main problem during its development?

- The main limitation was the barrel shape, into which it was necessary to fit the technical part. In many other houses, the starting point is the caliber around which the body is created, but in our case the opposite vector: technology is always at the service of design. In the history of Cartier there was a CPCP (Collection Privée Cartier Paris. - ") Two Time Zone watch, and each of the watch zones was controlled by its own mechanism. This time, Karol and I decided that the caliber should be a single, skeletonized one, and we came up with a wheel gear, vertically oriented between 6 and 12 o'clock. Since the case of the Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is slightly curved, the movement had to be made non-flat.

1) Panthère Figurative Révélation d'Une Panthère 2) Santos de Cartier Chronograph 3) Panthère de Cartier manchette 4) Panthère de Cartier 5) Baignoire watches
1) Panthère Figurative Révélation d'Une Panthère 2) Santos de Cartier Chronograph 3) Panthère de Cartier manchette 4) Panthère de Cartier 5) Baignoire watches

1) Panthère Figurative Révélation d'Une Panthère

2) Santos de Cartier Chronograph

3) Panthère de Cartier manchette

4) Panthère de Cartier

5) Baignoire watches

- Has anything changed in the Baignoire compared to the original?

- Almost nothing. This silhouette still seems perfect to us today, and we worked a lot with the manufactory to keep the original design. But the 1958 model used plexiglass, and today - sapphire crystal, which still changes its historical appearance. The Baignoire Allongée has a creative flight, originally designed in swinging London in the 60s. The speaking name of the collection (Baignoire in translation from French "bath". - ") prompted the decor of the bezel in the form of "bubbles" of colored stones: in the white version - from emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, in the version in yellow gold - from yellow sapphires and black spinel (onyx would be too fragile). Another Baignoire Allongée, with a bezel motif reminiscent of the clous de Paris (Parisian nails) decor often seen on the dial,- very tactile and sensual.

- Is there a fundamental difference for you in the approach to the design of male and female models?

“I don’t differentiate designs by gender, after all, many of our collections are worn by both men and women. But I note the difference between the design of more complex watches of a certain silhouette, for example, from the Cartier Privée collection, which I mentioned earlier, and the more intuitive, free design of the Cartier Libre models. For example, we created Tank Chinoise with a complete carte blanche, without being guided by any marketing or financial briefs. Just practicing style, thinking about art deco and black and white cinema. The elongated rectangle of black lacquer was highlighted by two tracks of specially designed cut rubies, similar at the same time to a cabochon and a clous de Paris. This is an illustration of how we are introducing the brand's jewelry techniques into watchmaking. Tank Chinoise Red has a 20s-inspired feel, although it is a completely modern watch. Important,that any design we always start with a drawing. After the first image, another two or three dozen options follow. It's funny, but most often we return to the first drawing - it turns out to be the most harmonious, most accurately expressing the essence of Cartier style.>

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