Chanel creative director Virginie Viard continues to masterfully work with the archives of the Parisian fashion house. This time, the designer was inspired by Gabrielle Chanel's obsession with horse racing, which began with her acquaintance with English polo player Arthur Capel, as well as photographs of Wiard's predecessor Karl Lagerfeld, in which he poses in riding boots with contrasting cuffs. The designer supplemented each of the 72 looks presented on the catwalk with similar shoes, and also picked up jockey hats for some of them. We saw the same motives in the new collections of Brandon Maxwell, Etro, Tory Burch, Balmain and Isabel Marant, which showed how a rider should look outside the racetrack.
1 of 6 Balmain © Press Office Brandon Maxwell © Press Office Chanel © Press Office Etro © Press Office Tory Burch © Press Office Isabel Marant © Press Office
Moschino, Simone Rocha, Paco Rabanne, Erdem and Gucci offer to feel like a heroine of historical novels, drowned in ruffles, lace and taffeta. And Louis Vuitton even held a show, more reminiscent of a retrospective of historical outfits, which cannot be called an accident: this year the brand sponsors the ball of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum, which, like the subsequent exhibition, will be devoted to the evolution of fashion. The images of Marie Antoinette, Joan of Arc and Suzanne Lenglen will be on the red carpet!
1 of 6 Gucci © press service Moschino © press service Simone Rocha © press service Erdem © press service Louis Vuitton © press service Paco Rabanne © press service
Fendi, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu dedicated the shows to a particular era. The image of a femme fatale, common in literature and film noir of the 1940s (for example, Detour, Lady from Shanghai, Sin Street, and Gilda), is emphasized by brand designers with fitted coats, long gloves, fur capes, smooth styling and, of course, dark lipstick.
1 of 6 Dries Van Noten © Fendi Press Service © Miu Miu Press Service © MSGM Press Service © Marc Jacobs Press Service © Press Service
In some collections, there is a clear fascination with the era of the 1920s: this is evidenced by loose-fitting sleeveless dresses, long coats with fur trim and fringe. But if 100 years ago this element was thin, graceful and embroidered with small beads, today the fringe looks as if the thing was passed through a shredder. Bottega Veneta fur coats, Dior tunics and Prada skirts, which should be worn on plain knitted shorts or bicycle shorts, were hit.
1 of 6 Prada © Press Office Christian Dior © Press Office Jil Sander © Press Office Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini © Press Office Bottega Veneta © Pietro S. D'Aprano / Getty Images Salvatore Ferragamo © Press Office
Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello calls latex "the new denim" and tries to refine the material that many associate exclusively with BDSM style and early Britney Spears videos, combining it with velvet dresses, plaid jackets and skirts below the knee. The same desire to give latex a new lease of life can be seen in the collections of Balmain, Self-Portrait, GCDS and Richard Quinn, which offers skinny leggings with Twiggy-style dresses for Fall / Winter 2020/21.
1 of 6 Saint Laurent © Dominique Charriau / WireImage Moncler X Richard Quinn © Balmain Press Office © Self-Portrait Press © instagram.com/mrselfportrait/ GCDS © Estrop / Getty Images
A couple of seasons ago, there was a grand comeback of the 1990s style with leopard coats, crimson jackets and chokers, like the main character of the movie "Leon" Matilda. Together with them, the chains returned, which hung pompously from the neck, gleamed at the waist or cling to the bow of the glasses. Now, this piece is becoming less flashy and is increasingly being used as a decor rather than a stand-alone accessory: it adorns Max Mara dresses, MSGM bags and Balmain sweaters in print.
1 of 6 Boss Hugo Boss © Press Service Balmain © Press Service Max Mara © Press Service Off-White © Press Service MSGM © Press Service Agnona © Press Service
From Rihanna's song it follows: you need to sparkle like a diamond. And the collections of Alberta Ferretti, Sportmax, Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini prove that you can sparkle like Swarovski crystals. It is with them that the neckline, cuffs, belts and bows of evening dresses are embroidered, which are accompanied by the shoes of Giuseppe Zanotti, Rene Caovila and Jimmy Choo, which are equally shiny in every sense.
1 of 6 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini © Sportmax press department © Tom Ford press department © Christian Dior press department © Alberta Ferretti press department © Bottega Veneta press department © Pietro S. D'Aprano / Getty Images
We saw skirts that looked like an open parachute or an oriental tent in January at Haute Couture Week. This silhouette now features Nina Ricci dresses, Toga jackets, Christopher John Rogers blouses, and Moncler X 1952 jackets to look their best in the storm.
1 of 5 Moncler X 1952 © Press Office Nina Ricci © Press Office Jil Sander © Press Office Toga © Press Office Christopher John Rogers © Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
In the new season, the things we are used to get a new reading. This applies not only to latex, but also to the houndstooth print. At the suggestion of the designers Moncler, Off-White and Anrealage, it changes its shape so that it looks like a spaceship, a fly or an element of op-art, and the brands Rokh, Rodarte and Hermes do it not in classic black and white, but in brown and beige, yellow-blue and burgundy-gray colors.
1 of 5 Nina Ricci © Gucci Press Service © Off-White Press Service © Moncler X Press Service 1952 © Agnona Press Service © Press Service
“Carpet dress or curtain” is now not an offensive comparison, but a real trend. The outfits from the new collections of Dries Van Noten, Celine, Etro, Moschino and Lanvin are made of velvet, silk and jacquard, the designs of which seem to have been copied from tapestries, wallpapers and upholstery of baroque sofas. Although the mood board of the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo Paul Andrew, who decorated shirts, skirts and coats with prints in the form of flowers, leaves and berries, was not interior items, but images from the diary of Salvatore Ferragamo's daughter Fulvia Visconti. Throughout her life, she collected photographs of plants for inspiration.
1 of 7 Etro © Press Office Dries Van Noten © Press Office Lanvin © Press Office Celine © Press Office Moschino © Press Office Genny © Press Office Salvatore Ferragamo © Press Office
Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Miu Miu, Givenchy and Jil Sander have legalized wrinkled dresses, ripped jackets and puffed cardigans. To look like a person who just woke up and did not have time to pack or loves to rummage in a grandmother's wardrobe is what designers consider to be a new sincerity.
1 of 6 Dolce & Gabbana © Press Office Gucci © Press Office Givenchy © Press Office Jil Sander © Press Office Miu Miu © Press Office Agnona © Press Office
It's time to get from the top shelf of the closet not only your grandmother's cardigan, but also your prom dress. The looks from MSGM, Carolina Herrera and Moschino look cartoonishly puppet, especially when paired with false collars, lace gloves, white socks and candy pink pumps.
1 of 7 Louis Vuitton © Gucci Press Service © Miu Miu Press Service © MSGM Press Service © Moschino Press Service © Carolina Herrera Press Service © Moncler X Simone Rocha Press Service © Press Service
The women's jacket has gone through many revolutionary changes: it lost its sleeves, acquired a hood, and increased hypertrophied shoulders. But in the new season, the revolution only affected the length of the thing: designers AWAKE, Nina Ricci, David Koma, Brunello Cucinelli and Alberta Ferretti seem to cut the jacket in half, combining it with long shirts, cashmere turtlenecks and high-waisted trousers.
1 of 4 AWAKE © press service Brunello Cucinelli © press service Nina Ricci © press service Alberta Ferretti © press service
Cape is a good alternative to a coat, which in the new collections is also made of practical materials. Lanvin has smooth leather, Nina Ricci has a waterproof fabric commonly used in jackets and raincoats. But the most functional option will be the one that covers the chest and neck: Ermanno Scervino, Michael Kors Collection and Loewe have such.
1 of 7 Carolina Herrera © press service of Max Mara © press service of Ermanno Scervino © press service of Givenchy © press service of Lanvin © press service of Celine © press service of Salvatore Ferragamo © press service
More often than not, long gloves appeared on the catwalk of the past fashion weeks. Lanvin suggested wearing them with cocktail dresses, Alberta Ferretti with jacquard jumpsuits, Sportmax with a matching pleated skirt, and Valentino with total black looks. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli claims that black color in clothes helps to emphasize a person's individuality, but he prefers to leave accessories bright, unusual and expressive.
1 of 7 Balmain © Sportmax Press Service © Fendi Press Service © Press Service