Watches & Wonders Digest: Compass Watch, Shining Triad, Grayscale

Watches & Wonders Digest: Compass Watch, Shining Triad, Grayscale
Watches & Wonders Digest: Compass Watch, Shining Triad, Grayscale

Video: Watches & Wonders Digest: Compass Watch, Shining Triad, Grayscale

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Icon of the day

2020 at Panerai is dedicated to the 70th anniversary of the Luminor luminescent composition. Unlike its radioactive predecessor, radium, tritium in Luminor was a relatively harmless substance, and the phosphor itself gave the name to the cult line of Panerai watches in a cushion-shaped case. For the anniversary of the development, the company has presented a trio of diving models Luminor Marina, which will be sold exclusively in the brand's boutiques. In this watch, in the dark, not only the hands and indices shine brightly, but also the inner bezel and even the branded bracket that clamps the crown. The sports strap has luminescent stitching and Velcro fastening.

The “shining” triad of Luminor Trilogy includes a titanium model Titanio DMLS (Pam 1117), whose case is made using 3D-printing technology, a watch made of a carbon composite Carbotech (Pam 1118) and a reference Pam 1119 made of a composite material based on Fibratech basalt fibers (60 % lighter than steel). Each model is released in a limited edition of 270 pieces and is equipped with a 70-year warranty, as indicated by the inscription on the case back.

Luminor Marina Panerai
Luminor Marina Panerai

1 of 5 Luminor Marina Panerai © Press Service of Luminor Marina Panerai © Press Service of Luminor Marina Panerai © Press Service of Luminor Marina Panerai © Press Service of Luminor Marina Panerai © Press Service

Collection of the day

The name of the collection, the most commercially successful and beloved by fans of the brand, immortalizes the date of the founding of the Minerva watch manufacture. Today, the historic factory has become an integral part of Montblanc's modern production, and the professional military Minerva chronographs of the 1930s inspire the vintage aesthetics of 1858 watches. The Geosphere in blue evokes glaciers and snow-capped peaks. The titanium case and the new bimetallic bracelet add a cool note. Polished steel rice-shaped center links are framed in satin-brushed titanium rectangular frames.

Another titanium model is the split-chronograph series, limited to 100 pieces, with a bright blue gradient enamel dial. The sophisticated watch is a serious measuring instrument with a telemetric scale (at the edge), a tachymeter (a snail scale in the center) and a split-second counter that allows intermediate measurements. The sophisticated in-house caliber MB M16.31 is the direct successor to the Minerva 17.29 movement, created in the 1930s.

The movement of the new one-button chronograph 1858 in steel or bronze reinterprets the historic caliber 13.20, while the design of the dial with cathedral hands and beige markings is the look of the historic monopusher chronograph. The Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H watch with a single hand shows the time on a 24-hour scale, so it is convenient to use it as a compass. If you rotate the 42mm case so that the end of the red hand points to the Sun, north is at 24 o'clock and south at 12 o'clock. This is true for the Northern Hemisphere.

1858 Monopusher Chronograph, Montblanc
1858 Monopusher Chronograph, Montblanc

1 of 5 1858 Geosphere, Montblanc © press department 1858 Automatique 24H, Montblanc © press department 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100, Montblanc © press department 1858 Monopusher Chronograph, Montblanc © press department 1858 Monopusher Chronograph, Montblanc © press department service

Skeleton of the day

A distinctive detail of the Arceau watch is the upper fastening of the strap in the form of a stirrup - this is how the noble house of Hermès recalls its connections with the world of horse riding. More than 40 years ago, Henri d'Origny invented a model with a classic round case with one stirrup and oblique indices. The automatic Vaucher caliber can now be seen through the smoky sapphire crystal. At the outer edges, it is almost black, against its background, silvered numbers are visible, written with a diligent slope. As you move towards the center, the glass becomes transparent, revealing mechanical secrets.

Arceau Skeleton, Hermès
Arceau Skeleton, Hermès

Arceau Skeleton, Hermès © press office

Trend of the day

Gray color returns to watch fashion - calm, neutral, restrained, imperceptible, silent. These are the signs of the present time.

Clifton, Baume Mercier
Clifton, Baume Mercier

1 of 6 Santos de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Odysseus, A. Lange & Söhne © Press Office Star Legacy Chronograph Day Date, Montblanc © Press Office Master Control Geographic, Jaeger-LeCoultre © Press Office Luminor Luna, Panerai © Clifton press service, Baume Mercier © press service

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