For five years now, Mireia Lopez Montoya has been in charge of Bvlgari's accessories division. Thanks to her efforts, this department, the youngest in the company, has become the most dynamic: its turnover has doubled over the last three or four years. Montoya's design strategy has made Bvlgari's handbags a true fashion bestseller, as have B.zero1 rings and the famous Serpenti bracelets.
The success of Bvlgari accessories
Of course, there are a huge number of bag companies on the market - these are, first of all, fashion brands. But we formulated a very clear positioning for ourselves, occupied a certain niche and in the most obvious way connected the DNA of the Bvlgari jewelry house with Bvlgari, a manufacturer of accessories. We are a cohesive company that maintains the relationship between different categories of goods. Therefore, customers have no questions about why a jewelry brand with a worldwide reputation, known for bold solutions, bright color combinations and unusual materials, produces bags. We built the accessory direction in the same vein, not forgetting the traditions of quality, manual labor and craftmanship. All production is concentrated in Florence, where we work with leather, including exotic types. Dyeing and processing are done manually,like many other operations. Bvlgari is the third largest brand within LVMH, and the accessories department represents a significant part of the group's profits. The most successful market is Japan, one of the first countries to get acquainted with Bvlgari accessories. Sales in China and the Middle East are growing rapidly.
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On the connection between the design of accessories and jewelry
Для нас, как и для ювелиров, первостепенное значение имеет цвет. Вероятно, вы обратили внимание, что названия оттенков кожи в номенклатуре Bvlgari всегда связаны с камнями: Candy Quartz, Cobalt Tourmaline, Carmine Jasper плюс «королевский сапфир», «зеленый изумруд», «алый рубин». Очень важны узнаваемые коды и «иконы» дома, например бестселлер Serpenti. У сумок из коллекции Serpenti замок оформлен в виде головы змеи. Эта деталь изготовлена по всем канонам ювелирного искусства: латунная заготовка так же полируется, покрывается золотом, эмалью, а иногда и полностью инкрустируется бриллиантами. Наконец, качество продукции и мастерство: как ювелирный бренд мы демонстрируем очень высокий уровень исполнения и пристальное внимание к деталям. У нас есть так называемые ювелирные сумки, расшитые камнями - бирюзой, малахитом, турмалинами. Причем каждый элемент закрепляется на основе индивидуально, вручную. Случается, что мы берем винтажные броши из наших архивов, чтобы создать специальные экземпляры вечерних клатчей, - их выпуск всегда ограничен и каждый имеет свой персональный номер. Эти сумки продолжают традицию драгоценностей уровня high jewellery. И еще один немаловажный момент: сумки Bvlgari продаются в наших фирменных бутиках рядом с часами и ювелирными украшениями. Поэтому мы не можем делать их слишком большими и громоздкими. Это относится и к новым моделям - рюкзакам и сумкам-торбам.
When developing the design of our bags, we always imagine a Bvlgari woman - modern, self-confident, not afraid of heightened attention and looks from the outside. She is not embarrassed that people on the street turn around to look at her "snake" bag, feeling genuine interest, trying to understand what it is, what it is made of. Our bags are surprising, including among airport employees - they are so noticeable and stand out in the general luggage flow. I can say that 80% of people who buy bags do not belong to the brand's jewelry clients, they come to us for the first time, get to know Bvlgari through the line of bags. This is how I recruit new clients for my home. And these are our youngest customers. They love that Serpenti Forever handbags go well with everyday style paired with jeans and sneakers for a more elegant evening look.especially models made of fashionable bright metallic leather.
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All leather work is done in our atelier in Florence. But we get metal fittings and fasteners in the form of snake heads from suppliers. The idea of a “snake” castle was suggested by one of the designers, who was inspired by a jewelry watch on a flexible bracelet from the 1940s – 1950s. The manufacturing process of this lock is generally similar to the production of jewelry, only brass is used instead of wax molds. Most of the operations are performed by hand: polishing, gilding, enameling, inlaid snake eyes with malachite, onyx or other stones. The chains that one atelier near Florence makes for us also deserve a special mention. For a long time we have been trying to make the chain flexible and resemble snake scales in texture and nature of movement. All scales are covered with gold.
Each finished bag undergoes a series of durability tests. We have a special room for testing: the resistance of the skin to temperature changes is checked, a tensile test is carried out, the durability of the fastener, which is opened and closed thousands of times. Another test: the bag is lowered down the stairs and watched to see if parts break when hitting the steps.
Mireia Lopez Montoya © press service
About favorite bags and jewelry
My favorite bag is Serpenti Forever. In my personal collection - black, white, blue, beige, green, silver models and a small bag in fuchsia shade. Inside there is always a wallet, glasses, including sun protection, hand cream, cards, keys, some cosmetics, headache pills. Everything fits perfectly! I don't know how many bags a woman needs to have to feel confident. I will only say that all these models must certainly be liked, then you will return to them in five years, and in ten. They will not go out of fashion because they will become part of you and your style. I would like to believe that Bvlgari Serpenti bags belong precisely to this category of accessories. From jewelry collections I really love Serpenti and B.zero1 icon rings, I have several of them. The iconic spiral that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year,turned into a clasp on a calfskin bag with bright lining.>