Question mark necklace, Boucheron
The open question mark necklace is perhaps the main invention of Frederic Boucheron. His first sketches for an extraordinary piece of jewelry date back to 1879. A flat spring is hidden inside a flexible metal band, hugging the neck, on which fragments of the future necklace are strung. For 140 years, the technique of creating such jewelry has not changed at all, so the creative director of the brand Claire Chuan is happy to use it to release modern versions of the “question mark”.
Necklace "question mark" Plume de Paon XL from the Signature High Jewelery collection, Boucheron, 2020 © press service
Panther, Cartier
“There is no other creature that has such a strong emotional connection with the most stylish women of the 20th century,” says Pierre Rainero, director of heritage and style at Cartier, of the panther. The spotted predator has become the main character of Cartier history thanks to Jeanne Toussaint, artistic director of the house from 1933 to 1970. It was she who invented the sculptural Panthère brooches in the form of a predator, reclining on a cabochon of emerald and sapphire. However, the very first depiction of a panther was an abstraction: a women's wristwatch from 1914 with a spotted onyx and diamond motif.
1 of 2 Panthère de Cartier earrings, Cartier, 2003 © press service La Panthère watches, Cartier, 2020 © press service
Liens, Chaumet
The Chaumet Liens motif, symbolizing the sentimental affection of two people, dates back to the early 20th century. Joseph Chaumet created necklaces and bandos in the form of thin crossed lines. The flowing weave of diamond ribbons served as the decoration of Pierre Sterlet's evening bags for Chaumet in the 1960s. The romantic symbol gradually turned into a geometric one: jewelry crosses adorned Liens pendants and thin bracelets, and later they connected open rings and halves of Jeux de Liens medallions.
1 of 3 Bracelet Liens Séduction, Chaumet, 2017 © Press Office Pendant Jeux de Liens, Chaumet, 2020 © Press Office Ring Liens, Chaumet, 2000s © Press Office
Alhambra, Van Cleef & Arpels
The Alhambra motif, created by the Parisian atelier Van Cleef & Arpels, can be considered the longest running in the history of jewelery. The first sautoir with four-leafed leaves appeared back in 1968, becoming a symbol of jewelry for every day, and has already celebrated its 50th anniversary. From what materials one of the most coveted jewelry symbols was not made: lapis lazuli, malachite, onyx, turquoise, mother-of-pearl, even wood and rock crystal were used.
1 of 2 Sautoir Alhambra with Rhinestone, Van Cleef & Arpels, 2018 © Press Office Vintage Alhambra Pendant, Van Cleef & Arpels, 2020 © Press Office
Tiffany T, Tiffany & Co
The idea for the symbolic letter T dates back to the 1980s, but was implemented as a design element in 2014 by the then creative director of the brand, Francesca Amphitheatroph. With her light hand, thin open rings and bracelets with T-shaped ends, stencil T-silhouettes, "smiling" Tiffany T Smile pendant chains appeared. Today, Reed Krakoff has brought volume to the flat design of the Tiffany T. The Tiffany T1 necklace and bracelets feature the beveled T architecture as a clasp.
1 of 2 Tiffany T1 Bracelet, Tiffany & Co., 2020 © Press Office Tiffany T Two Rings, Tiffany & Co., 2016 © Press Office
B.zero1, Bvlgari
The first B.zero1 ring appeared in 1999, at the turn of the millennium. The solid yellow gold piece combines two Bvlgari know-hows: a movable Tubogas spiral and two flat rings with a double logo of the jewelry house. Later, white gold, colored marble and ceramics were added, and the basic silhouette of the ring was transformed into pendants, earrings and hoop bracelets. In the latest version of B.zero1 Rock, the polished spirals are bristling with tiny "rocker" spikes.
1 of 3 B.zero1 Labyrinth Pendant, Bvlgari, 2018 © Press Office B.zero1 Colored Marble Ring, Bvlgari, 2012 © Press Office B.zero1 Rock Bracelet, Bvlgari, 2020 © Press Office