Each Cartier high jewelery collection demonstrates the maturity and depth of creativity. For Cartier, the stone becomes an idea or a protagonist in a piece of art. However, this is not just a collection of outstanding gemological specimens, classic precious and rare semi-precious ones. Each time we have before us a whole scientific and philosophical treatise on how they resonate, vibrate, influence each other, how they add up to chromatic scales and transform chaos into harmony.
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The [Sur] Naturel collection explores the nature of the supernatural: it is the story of how an exotic plant or animal from the real world is transformed into a recognizable abstraction, preserving the beauty and energy of a natural original. The names of unique jewelry also help to unravel these metamorphoses.
The evergreen tillandsia has evolved into the eponymous Tillandsia necklace. Instead of lush greenery, there is a pair of huge oval beryls (their total weight is approaching 164 carats), which are combined with diamonds of a yellow-brown scale. Earrings from the set are made of pear-shaped greenish beryls.
Tillandsia necklace, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press office
An attempt to capture the water element was made in the Sinope set. Five blue Madagascar sapphires with a total weight of almost 40 carats gracefully soar in the "waves" of white gold and diamonds, while the edge of the wavy necklace is trimmed with lapis lazuli. The same combination is repeated in earrings and a cocktail ring with a large single sapphire.
Sinope necklace, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press office
The mottled color of the snow leopard is conveyed through smooth, rounded dark opals and sparkling diamonds scattered between them. The central element of the Hemis necklace (the name of the national park in the Himalayas in northern India, where snow leopards live) is lilac kunzite weighing more than 70 carats.
Hemis necklace, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press office
And some more predators from Cartier. The alternation of octagonal emeralds from Zambia and square-cut diamonds mimics the crocodile scale pattern in the Gharial necklace - not an abstract crocodile, but a rare type of Gangetic gavial. The Opheis snake necklace resembles the body of a reptile with a head shaped like a 54-carat Zambian emerald. Onyx fragments add volume to the flexible diamond design.
Gharial necklace, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press office
Opheis necklace, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press office
The only watch in the [Sur] Naturel collection is dedicated to the famous panther. Half the width of the rigid yellow gold bracelet is occupied by the abstract spotted pattern of onyx and diamonds, which began the anthology of the Cartier panther in 1914. Coral fragments are responsible for the tropical mood; this fragile natural material is covered with vertical godron notches. Curiously, the Cartier archive contains a sketch of a 1963 ring of a similar design with a combination of a spotted pattern and coral relief. The modern, precious, Art Deco-inspired Panthere Tropicale hybrid is topped with two aquamarines and two blue tourmalines.
Panthere Tropicale watch, [Sur] Naturel collection, Cartier © press service
The [Sur] Naturel collection currently includes 180 pieces of jewelry.