In a jewelry interpretation, Gabrielle Chanel's young years fit into nine sets (48 jewelry), each of which is dedicated to one of the most iconic women in her life: among them is her younger sister Antoinette, who helped Gabrielle open her first boutique, a dancer, actress and courtesan. Emilienne d'Alençon, who wore hats from Gabrielle's early collections, an opera singer and Chanel's close friend Martha Davelli. There was no place in the collection for a single man, who was not so few in Chanel's life and career. But there was a place for jewelry named after Gabrielle herself. And of course, one of them is the most expensive in the entire collection.
Gabrielle Chanel on the beach in Etretat, 1913 © Chanel Press Service
The idea for Coco Avant Chanel was inspired by the manner in which Gabrielle created clothes: she did not make sketches, but cut right away, hence the general haute couture theme and two main motives - bows and lace. Themes for the Chanel house and the Chanel Joaillerie directions are already familiar, but skillfully reworked so that there is no déjà vu effect.
Traditionally, jewelry watches are presented along with jewelry - three precious models on bracelets. And according to tradition, a collection precious object is presented with them. In the previous Les Blés de Chanel, shown last summer, it was a table clock with a wheat ears motif; interior clocks were used as such an object in several other earlier collections. Now the object was chosen much more playful, and again - aimed exclusively at women.
The jewelry-designed fan was released in five copies, one was sold immediately, almost the first item from the entire collection. And this is not surprising: in addition to the magnificent execution, the very essence of the object is also remarkable - if at the beginning of the 20th century one could also choose among precious ashtrays, pill boxes, binoculars or the same fans, now such jewelry-utilitarian items have become a wonder and are extremely rare …
© press service Chanel
Materials for Coco Avant Chanel were chosen more than traditional for home: of course, pearls (and not only white and black, but also different shades of gray and gorgeous deep pink), white gold, colorless diamonds, gray spinel as an accent. Of the less expected - rather dark, gray-tinted moonstones and colored sapphires - pink and the most valuable salmon-orange Padparadscha (Suzanne set). The most expensive piece of jewelry was a short necklace with an original design that allowed it to rise slightly above the neck, named Gabrielle Chanel.
Gabrielle Chanel necklace © Chanel Press Service
In the high jewelry segment, Chanel Joaillerie also works with permanent contractors (independent craftsmen and ateliers), but the main jewelry is produced only by its own jewelry atelier on the Place Vendome (this has been the custom since its opening in 2012). And this necklace, estimated at more than € 3 million, with a lace motif in the form of camellias and a central diamond of more than 10 carats, was created there. Of course, it was released in a single copy and will never be repeated.
Another unique piece is the € 1.13 million Suzanne necklace with Padparadscha sapphires. Even if Chanel changes its mind and decides to repeat it, it will be very difficult to do so: finding a second set of sapphires of the rarest color and good characteristics is an almost impossible task. In this and other necklaces, the couture theme is also played up in the clasp, each is a precious bow or tie, so it is better to wear these jewelry with high hairstyles.
Suzanne necklace © Chanel press service
Coco Avant Chanel also did not do without transformers: in the Antoinette set, named after her sister Gabrielle Chanel, a bow brooch is detached from the pearl necklace.
An even more original transformer is among the three high jewelery watches Les Éternelles de Chanel presented together with the collection. The first of these were demonstrated at Baselworld a couple of years ago, when they showed three wide bracelet watches. Now - one bracelet and two necklaces with pendant watches.
© press service Chanel
The most interesting thing is with glyptics. The teardrop-shaped watch case at the bottom of the pendant can be flipped and worn with the diamond-set side up. By the way, this watch will not be brought to Basel this year. As it was decided in Chanel, in Switzerland the place for watchmaking art, and high jewelery - in Paris, on the Place Vendome.>