The men's fashion week in Paris is a point in the "gentlemen's" block, but by no means the finale of the winter fashion whirlwind: haute couture is already on the heels; some two weeks - and now New York with women's shows of the same season. The more pleasant is the pace set by the French capital: not a minute of rest, not a second of rest - only successful starts, good alliances and understandable trends.
Debuts
After the departure of Alessandro Sartori, who now rules the ball at Zegna, there were rumors that a young lady was looking for the place of Berluti's creative director. But, perhaps, even the decision to give an entirely masculine brand in the hands of women would have surprised not as much as the appointment of Haider Ackermann to the post. Yes, he had a chance to tailor more than one men's suit under the name brand Haider Ackermann, but all of them were far from the idea of the classic - the cornerstone of Berluti. As it turned out, the fears were in vain: the designer did an excellent job, finding the arithmetic mean between his vision and the brand's heritage with a century history. As a result, a place was found even for the notorious classic costumes, to which Ackermann added "rock" due to his signature silhouette.
At Valentino - also premiered. Remaining in charge after the departure of his partner Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Pierpaolo Piccioli for the first time independently worked on a men's collection. True, it was not without outside interference: the few, but catchy inscriptions on outerwear, jumpers and caps seem painfully familiar for a reason - they came from the pen of the graphic designer Jamie Reed, who at one time designed the Sex Pistols singles.
1, 2 Valentino | 3,4,5 Berluti
Cooperation
17 years ago, New York-based streetwear brand Supreme got into trouble by stamping the Louis Vuitton monogram on T-shirts, hats and skateboards: of course, there was no agreement with the French - and the latter, as expected, filed a lawsuit. But now all the disagreements have been settled - there is no need to interpret the joint collection of two powerful (each in its own segment) brands differently. The duo turned out to be brilliant without exaggeration - and the army of Louis Vuitton fans (it was he who came up with the initiative) is now likely to become even larger due to the millennials avid for the 90s.
1, 3 Junya Watanabe x The North Face | 2 Louis Vuitton x Supreme
At Junya Watanabe teammates happened just a few: Barbour, Carhartt, the Vans, Levi's … But the main thing in this team - of The North Face. If only because the name of the brand specializing in high-tech sportswear, they did not hesitate to put on a couple of jackets that opened the show.
Red and black check or stripe
Punk or gone: the color combination, which traditionally evokes associations, if not with absolute anarchism, then at least with a banal rebellion, reminded of itself in almost every second Parisian collection.
1 Dries van Noten | 2 Givenchy | 3 Balenciaga | 4 Dior Homme
Bright colors
The season, in principle, turned out to be not a bright example. Judge for yourself: even Rick Owens, who is usually completely devoted to black, was generous in some semblance of a rainbow (about a rainbow, of course, but there is some truth in it - as well as shades of green, yellow and even pink). What can we say about other, less principled designers.
1 Dior Homme | 2 Berluti | 3 Kenzo | 4 Givenchy | 5 Balenciaga
Camouflage
The turbulent political situation is forcing craftsmen from Parisian (and not only) ateliers to grab onto … No, not for weapons, God forbid. For camouflage fabric. And - what an irony! - turn it from a means of disguise into a way to get more attention. One thing pleases: things are still obtained as unmarked as possible.
1 Sacai | 2 Yohji Yamamoto | 3 Balmain
Velvet and corduroy
We understand that you are already tired of reading about the "triumphant return of velvet to the catwalks." But there's nothing you can do about it: Velvet and its cousin velveteen are indeed back. Really triumphant. And that's why they will probably stay for a couple of seasons, which means it's time to invest wisely - even in a double-breasted jacket, like Hermès, even in a robe like Yohji Yamamoto.
1.2 Hermès | 3 Berluti | 3 Sacai
Lettering
In the beginning there was a word, and that word was Notning at Lanvin, Hardior at Dior and Kering at Balenciaga. There is no need to guess what the author wanted to say: they themselves are ready to explain everything. Lucas Ossendriver, for example, explained to reporters that he wanted to build a collection on a cut, design and proportions - and actually had nothing more in mind.
1 Dior Homme | 2 Balenciaga | 3.4 Lanvin>