With the beginning of European weeks of men's fashion, dozens of pavilions are traditionally erected in the Florentine Fortezza da Basso, in which hundreds of brands and thousands of items are located. However, in addition to the main platform hosting buyers, journalists and experts from all over the world, the Pitti Uomo calendar contains several special events that take place in different parts of Florence and reflect the state of the industry today.
Marigold mountains, Gothic architecture and priestly vestments at the Jil Sander show
The event was the show of the men's collection Jil Sander for the fall-winter 2020/21 season, held in the church of Santa Maria Novella. Special guests of Pitti Uomo, creative directors of the brand Luc and Lucy Meyer, paid tribute not only to the city where they met during their student years, but also to the historical basilica, decorating the refectory hall with mountains of calendula - from which medicinal balms were prepared in the church pharmacy for 400 years. The clothes presented also referred to the history and architecture of Santa Maria Novella: tightly buttoned black shirts and cassock-like minimalist coats resembled the vestments of priests, and the slits on the sleeves, sharp shoulders and the clear rhythm of metal fittings are the pointed vaults of the church. In addition, Luke and Lucy Meyer showed fitted jackets, oversized raincoats, knitted shirts, elongated vests and architectural bags.which women will surely like too. What is not an alternative to Phoebe Fileo's collections for Celine, which everyone continues to miss even two years after the designer left the brand?
1 of 7 Jil Sander, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, Fall-Winter 2020 / 21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Jil Sander, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com
Performance of works by Mozart, Tchaikovsky and Debussy in Brioni costumes
Florence has left an important mark on the history of the Brioni house: in 1952, he held the first show of the men's collection here. Therefore, it is not surprising that the brand decided to celebrate its 75th anniversary in this Italian city, and even with the support of Olivier Sayyard, fashion historian, art consultant and former director of the Galliera Museum. At the 96th Pitti Uomo, he organized an exhibition in Palazzo Pitti on the evolution of men's fashion over the past 30 years, but for Brioni he came up with something more interesting than the mannequins placed throughout the palace.
1 of 7 Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine. com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Brioni, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com
Guests at Palazzo Jerini - this is the place chosen for the celebration of the anniversary and the presentation of the autumn-winter collection - were greeted by musicians performing works by Mozart, Tchaikovsky and Debussy. They also played the role of models: cashmere coats, jacquard jackets and jackets with fur trim under the Moonlight Sonata looked especially poetic.
Winter forest and jackets with 190 years of history at the Woolrich presentation
The American brand, which has already become a permanent resident of Pitti Uomo, brought its native Pennsylvania to Italy. The artificial forest in one of the pavilions of the exhibition resembled the winter landscapes of the city where John Rich and Daniel McCormick opened a manufactory in 1830. While walking along the snow-covered trails, one could see archival photographs of the oldest manufacturer of outerwear, as well as its key models, revised taking into account new technologies and current trends. Thus, Arctic Parka is now available in three versions: "Luxe" - made of elite wool from Ing. Loro Piana & C., "Tech" - made of Gore-Tex membrane, which provides waterproofness, wind resistance and breathability, and graphene, which heats up quickly and slowly loses heat, as well as "Eco" - from organic cotton,recycled polyester and beets (buttons were made from root crops).
1 of 5 Woolrich, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Woolrich, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Woolrich, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Woolrich, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine. com Woolrich, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com
Balaclavas, peacoats and zip ponchos at the K-Way premiere
Unlike Woolrich, this is the first time the Parisian brand has appeared on Pitti Uomo. The debut, which took place in the Florentine building of the Chamber of Commerce and united the men's and women's collections, was dedicated to the anniversary of the relaunch of the company, which 15 years ago became part of the Turin BasicNet Group. Now K-Way is not only windproof, lightweight and wrinkle-free jackets, but also knitted suits, wool coats, pea coats in bright colors and jeans with contrasting zippers, which have become the hallmark of the French brand. Although they do not really correspond to the motto "Let it rain" ("And let it rain"), they accurately reflect the five main tenets of the brand: classic, modern, functionality, colorful and high-tech.
1 of 8 K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall -winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com K-Way, Fall-Winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine. com
A feast for the whole world, musical performance and agender fashion at the Telfar show
Against the backdrop of world brands with a hundred-year history, the New York brand Telfar, founded by Telfar Clemens in 2005, looked modest. However, the show that he staged at the Palazzo Corsini beat many in scale: the models did not walk on the catwalk, but on the table at which the stylist Lotta Volkova, fashion critic Susie Menkes and Rick Owens' wife Michelle Lamy sat. "For dinner" accompanied by Tanzanian singer Hawa Ntarehei, ultra-short denim shorts, wide velvet trousers, tight-fitting perforated jumpers, suits with loincloths and branded Telfar bags were served, which have already become the target of street style photographers. Clemens, who has been named “one of the most interesting designers of our time” by Pitti Immagine's communications director Lapo Chianchi, specializes in agender fashion,rethinking American culture and "simplex" cut (simple - "simple", complex - "complex").
1 of 7 Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine. com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com Telfar, fall-winter 2020/21 © Pittimmagine.com
Lace bras, high heels and nude suits at Stefano Pilati men's show
Former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna Stefano Pilati, who has been dealing with his own brand Random Identities since 2017, is also making attempts to erase gender in clothing. At the Leopolda Station exhibition center, his new men's collection was shown - with fitted jackets, striped skirts, sheer tops, lace bras and bright suits worn over a naked body. They were represented on the runway by children, men and women in heels, including writer Fatima Jamal, director Jamal Lewis, choreographer MJ Harper and, finally, Stefano Pilati himself. “It seems the next generation of designers prides themselves on being amateurs. But they do not even realize the damage they cause to society by offering status after status in an era when clothes must reflect everything that happens around: war, regression, destruction of values,corruption of civil society and bad taste. My line should show my good taste and style. This is what I would be recognized for,”said Pilati. And he added: “Many people said that chic is not for sale. But I would say that chic cannot be sold, but it can be offered."
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