Milan fashion weeks are considered to be the most commercially oriented. While some of the London and Paris shows tend to baffle those outside the narrow editors' circle, the Italians are simpler: usually a four-day marathon of well-tailored suits, which in recent years has slightly diluted the athleisure direction (by the way, finally started losing ground).
Not to say that this time everything was completely new, but the wind of change blew. There weren't a couple of familiar names on the schedule. Other brands are undergoing serious personnel changes. However, the well-tailored suits are still there.
Debuts
Several fashionable teams have renewed their "coaching staff" on the eve of the season. The Dirk Bikkembergs are now runs the Lee Wood, who has worked for 15 years under the supervision of Donatella Versace and her first collection of cleverly groped line between a gentleman and mischief. Guillaume Mayand, the newly minted creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, played with the proportions: he shortened the jackets, and, on the contrary, lengthened the coat. Finally, most of all the gossip was caused by the debut of Francesco Risso, who came to replace the left Marni Consuelo Castiglioni. The "premiere" collection reminded Prada very much - and this is hardly a coincidence: at one time Risso worked for Miucci.
1 of 10 © Salvatore Ferragamo © Salvatore Ferragamo © Dirk Bikkembergs © Dirk Bikkembergs © Salvatore Ferragamo © Marni © Marni © Marni © Dirk Bikkembergs © Dirk Bikkembergs
Millennials
Leaving behind their love for soulful Sicilian old ladies, the duo Dolce & Gabbana has a stranglehold on the millennials. If at the show of the spring-summer 2017 season, the landing of the stellar offspring and Instagram- kings decorously sat in the front row, then this time the “weiner” Cameron Dallas, the eldest son of Pamela Anderson Brandon Thomas Lee and the grandson of Bob Dylan Levy became even closer to the beautiful: under the live "accompaniment" of Austin Mahone (if you are over fifteen, it is not necessary to get acquainted with the work of this performer) walked the catwalk in outfits from the collection with the immodest name of D&G Princes. And in the first row, in the end, were the mothers of the newly minted models: not all of them can already travel alone.
1 of 8 dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana © dolce & gabbana
Coat
Saying that the coat will return to fashion in the fall-winter season is like predicting the dominance of the floral print in spring. Nevertheless, out of all the variety of outerwear, designers really relied on coats. In general, this is not even a trend: in the cold season, you still cannot do without it. So why not choose the one that is as interesting as possible? Moreover, brands have gone out of their way: there are suitable options for both oversized lovers and for those who keep up with Hollywood classics like Humphrey Bogart.
1 of 14 © jil sander © Armani © Prada © Versace © Marni © Salvatore Ferragamo © Missoni © Etro © Versace © Etro © Dirk Bikkembergs © Versace © Marni
Velveteen
Two major players, Prada and Girogio Armani, agreed on the love of this not the simplest material, which means that in the next six months, a pleasant to the touch fabric with ribs will only add to its popularity. Miucci did it a little more intricate: her costumes in the style of the 70s are like from a Wes Anderson movie, or even from the director's dressing room. For some reason, it is generally accepted that corduroy is not good for anyone, but this fashion week has proven otherwise. Moreover, she confirmed that he can be very different: in Brunello Cucinelli - courageous, in Marni - a little "geeky", in the already mentioned Armani - with a certain amount of chic.
1 of 13 © brunello cucinelli © brunello cucinelli © Prada © brunello cucinelli © brunello cucinelli © Giorgio Armani © Marni © Prada © Giorgio Armani © Giorgio Armani © Prada © Marni © Marni
Oddities
Armani's scarves-sleeves, poncho-short blankets in the final of the Etro show, bright sweaters with the names of the days of the week at Alberta Ferretti (which, by the way, is not even a full-fledged participant of the Men's Fashion Week - the brand brought its pre-fall and couture collections to Milan), silk scarves, square in MSGM, headbands inscribed with eloquent Think and Fantastic - not always clear, but interesting gizmos that will surely be scattered in wishlist anyone who desperately follows the trends.
1 of 10 © Alberta Ferretti © MSGM © Alberta Ferretti © MSGM © Fendi © Fendi © Fendi © MSGM © Giorgio Armani © Giorgio Armani
Losses
Two brands at once - Gucci and Bottega Veneta - dropped out of the usual schedule, deciding to combine their heterosexual collections and show them in February, all in the same geographical point, but already during women's fashion week. But they could have done as Cédric Charlier: the Belgian also decided to carry out a “merger”, but at the same time he staged the show in Milan - even if Paris was always his place of power.
1 of 14 © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier © Cédric Charlier