Fendi
At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, moving fashion shows online didn't seem like a bad idea: less financial and environmental costs, more time to prepare, and more room for creative expression. However, after the first Fashion Weeks held in a digital format - Moscow, London and Couture - it became clear: many brands delve too deeply into the show format and completely forget that its main goal is to present clothes in a clear and detailed way.
As restrictions eased and borders opened, designers began to return to their familiar format with large-scale set designs, model walkways and smart guests - of course, in masks and keeping a social distance. Those who were invited (and managed to get to the show) again had the opportunity to view the knitted ornaments that adorned the men's collection presented by Fendi along with the women's, prints based on photographs taken by creative director Sylvia Venturini-Fendi from the bedroom window during quarantine, and accessories in pink, orange and yellow colors, which are diluted with plain, mainly linen sets.
Light loose coats paired with white slippers, closed shirt dresses combined with a visor cap and uniform aprons worn on a turtleneck with sewn-in gloves, at the same time referred to the outfit of doctors who became superheroes of the pandemic time, and testified to the zeroing of the Italian brand before entering a new era. Next season, the Fendi team will be joined by Dior Men's Creative Director Kim Jones, who will work on the women's collections with Silvia-Venturini Fendi.
1 of 40 Fendi, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office,Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © PressSpring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © PressSpring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © PressSpring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press OfficeSpring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Fendi Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press Office
Prada
From now on, a creative duo is also working on Prada collections - Raf Simons, the founder of the brand of the same name, and also the former creative director of Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein, joined the granddaughter of the founder of the brand Miucce Prade. Together they reflected on what a modern uniform should be: simple (black sleeveless dresses, monochromatic suits, single-breasted coats and cocoons appeared on the catwalk) and recognizable (each piece was complemented by a large triangular Prada logo).
However, it cannot be said that the first joint collection of designers was inexpressive: the styling means were blue pointed pumps with a tongue, yellow wool turtlenecks with a cutout and the brand's signature microbags, which turned into pockets on skirts, tops and anoraks. Some wardrobe items now have abstract prints from Raf Simons' longtime friend Peter de Potter. According to the creative co-directors of Prada, the artist's work is used to "interrupt and disrupt the uniform surfaces of clothing" and also as a symbol of "the meeting of worlds and aesthetic discourses."
Despite the fact that the screening was held without guests in the format of the film broadcast, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons did not deprive the audience of the pleasure of seeing them together. They took part in a public talk after the show, where fans of the brand asked them via the Prada website. A ten-year-old girl from Pennington asked how to succeed in the fashion industry ("Study"), a young man from Kiev found out how long the designers wanted to work with each other ("It seems like always"), and a New Yorker asked how hard it is a collection with another person (“I was empowered by the fact that Miuccia and I love the same things”).
1 of 40 Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miucci Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miucci Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press -service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Jointcollection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada andRaf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' collection Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press service Joint collection of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons © press servicepress service
Dolce & Gabbana
At first glance, it seems that the new Dolce & Gabbana collection has nothing to do with the pandemic: the same Sicily as a source of inspiration, the same holiday with a riot of textures, colors and prints. In fact, it perfectly reflects the state of the fashion industry in times of crisis: every thing is made using the patchwork technique, that is, from different scraps of fabrics sewn into a single whole.
Patchwork was actively used after the Second World War in conditions of strict rationing, and sometimes a complete lack of resources. Dolce & Gabbana has also faced this problem, caused by the suspension of the work of Italian factories, in recent months, so the remains of fabrics from last year's collections were used - in polka dots, checks, stripes, with leopard patterns or floral prints. The result is colorful three-piece suits, high-waisted Bermuda shorts, jackets from a man's shoulder, wide jeans, evening dresses, suede boots and leather bags - just 98 looks, which at the Metropol exhibition complex in Milan were watched by about the same number of guests.
1 of 40 Dolce & Gabbana, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © press- Dolce & Gabbana Service Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service & Gabbana, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service, spring-summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana press service Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press ServiceGabbana, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring- Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service,Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring- Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Dolce & Gabbana Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press Service
BOSS
Twenty years later, BOSS returned to the venue for its first women's collection, the Senate Palace in Milan. The most loyal fans of the German brand - from the Italian influencer Olivia Palermo to the English actress Sookie Waterhouse - gathered on the territory of the 17th century baroque building. Those who were unable to attend the show due to closed borders followed the broadcast not only on YouTube, but also on the brand's TikTok account. The TikTok avatar is a print drawing inspired by the work of artist William Farr, which combines flowers with various abstract objects.
The same print appeared on items from the BOSS spring / summer collection: drop-shoulder shirts, high-waisted trousers and light summer raincoats, which alternated with plain leather sundresses, elongated cardigans, dresses with eyelets and bomber jackets with patch pockets. Plants were placed not only on clothes, but also around the catwalk: the brand promised to donate the trees brought to the site as a gift to the residents of Milan, and also to care for them for the next two years.
1 of 41 BOSS, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office,Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Service, Spring-Summer 2021 © Press ServiceSpring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, spring-summer 2021 © press service BOSS, spring-summer 2021 © press serviceSpring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, Spring-Summer 2021 © BOSS Press Office, spring-summer 2021 © press service BOSS, spring-summer 2021 © press servicespring-summer 2021 © press servicespring-summer 2021 © press service
Versace
At the first screening after the pandemic, Donatella Versace wanted to create something revolutionary, corresponding to the changes that have occurred in people lately. “For me it meant dreaming of a new reality,” she comments. "A reality of vibrant colors and fantastic inhabitants, a reality in which we can peacefully coexist."
The new reality of the creative director of Versace was named "Versacepolis" and sent us on a journey through the depths of the sea, which, as Donatella regretfully notes, are not even 20% explored. The water element is close to the DNA of the Italian brand: its logo adorns the face of Medusa the Gorgon, the beautiful daughter of the sea elder, expelled from the temple of the goddess Athena and turned into a monster. In the spring-summer Versace collection, the mythical symbol has been supplemented by new top-handle bags, which are called La Medusa.
An important place in the Versace archives is also occupied by the Trésor de la Mer print depicting marine life, which was especially pronounced in the collection for the spring-summer 1992 season. Almost 20 years later, it adorned suits, bombers, short-sleeved shirts and slip dresses, which for the first time plus-size models presented in the history of the brand: Preshes Lee, Alva Claire and Jill Kortlev. From the first row, special guests watched everything that happened on the podium - the team that worked on the collection, and Donatella Versace herself. “I can’t fully express how happy it was to know that they were there, watched the results of their hard work and, even for a moment, found themselves in the dream world they helped create,” she says.
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Moschino
Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott managed to do the impossible - to bring together editors and fashion critics from different countries at his show. In the 1950s-style salon - with stucco on the walls, crystal chandelier on the ceiling and carved chairs in golden hue - Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Edward Enninful, Anna Dello Russo and Carlene Cerf de Dudsel were present. True, in miniature versions: the team of the Italian brand created a dozen puppets in the form of guests from the A-list, which not only were frighteningly similar to prototypes, but could also exchange emotions from what they saw.
Hamish Bowles, as usual, whispered to Anna Wintour, who traditionally held the poker face, and some of the editors made notes about the collection in a notebook. For example, about intricate draperies on a dress, brocade trim on a coat, embroidery on a tulle skirt or a print on a fur vest. Each outfit is miniature and will probably only be sewn in full size if pre-ordered. At least, this is exactly how the creative director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, acted, who also presented the collection in the form of a puppet theater this summer.
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Salvatore ferragamo
“Now you don't want complicated clothes, now you don't need to complicate anything at all,” explained designer Paul Andrew at the presentation of the Salvatore Ferragamo cruise collection in July. Therefore, the novelties of the spring-summer 2021 season are built on architectural lines, mainly natural colors and lack of decor. These are perforated jackets, fitted jackets, relaxed jumpsuits, sheath dresses, and coats with a raised collar, like Kim Novak in Alfred Hitchcock's Vertigo. It was his films that the creative director of the Italian brand began to revise after the quarantine ran out of the entire supply of series on Netflix.
Andrew's interest in Hitchcock is shared by Luca Guadagnino, who made many references to the director's work in one of his iconic films, I Am Love. It was to him that the Salvatore Ferragamo team, not sure that they would be able to organize a full-fledged show, entrusted the shooting of a short film about the collection. Quarantine only contributed to this: the heroines of the minifilm, led by Mariacarla Boscono, walked through the frighteningly empty, completely Hitchcock's Milan. The work of Luca Guadagnino opened the show in the courtyard of the Rotunda della Besana, which eventually took place to the cry of ravens, referring to yet another masterpiece by Alfred Hitchcock - "Birds".
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Valentino
For the first time in several years Valentino held a show not in Paris, but in Milan. According to the creative director of the brand, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the decision to transfer was made for two reasons. First, it saved the fashion house employees involved in the preparation of the show from flying between Italy and France amid the spread of coronavirus infection. Secondly, it helped support the Italian fashion industry, the second most important branch of the national economy.
Piccioli chose one of the symbols of the industrial power of Italy - the former foundry Fonderia Macchi as the location for the show. The designer left her rooms virtually untouched, only decorating the floor, walls and pillars with green plants from landscape designer Satoshi Kawamoto. “Flowers usually serve as a decoration, but in this case they became a sign of strength,” Piccioli reflects on the set design.
A black grand piano was also installed in the space, intended for the performance of Labrinth - the British performer and Emmy winner for the soundtrack to the TV series Euphoria. To the instrumental music, lace shirts, perforated jumpers, mesh skirts, floral capes and new versions of a little black dress (now worn over shorts) floated down the catwalk.
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