Zalium, Carbotec, Rubedo: Why Watch And Jewelry Brands Need Their Alloys

Zalium, Carbotec, Rubedo: Why Watch And Jewelry Brands Need Their Alloys
Zalium, Carbotec, Rubedo: Why Watch And Jewelry Brands Need Their Alloys

Video: Zalium, Carbotec, Rubedo: Why Watch And Jewelry Brands Need Their Alloys

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For a long time, the most common metals were used for the manufacture of watch cases and jewelry: various types of gold, platinum, steel, silver, titanium. In the last couple of decades, when the problem of brand recognition and corporate identity has become acute, watch and jewelry houses have been actively engaged in authoring developments - searching for unique design elements, original color solutions and, of course, innovative materials. The latter entailed serious scientific research and serious investments in an effort to obtain metals with special characteristics - stronger, lighter, resistant to mechanical damage - and also to achieve a unique shade.

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Everose gold, Rolex

The giant of the watch industry, Rolex has organized a foundry at the manufactory and therefore has the ability to create its own gold alloys of the highest quality with special properties. From the Cosmograph Daytona cases to the ladies Datejust bracelets, the exclusive 18K Everose gold, created in 2005, is used in all Rolex timepieces in rose gold. It is distinguished by a warmer pink hue that remains unchanged for decades, while the standard pink metal (gold with a certain copper content) fades over the years. The Everose formula is a closely guarded secret.

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Gold Beige, Chanel

In addition to classic metals, gold (75%), silver and copper, this alloy of a warm beige hue includes three more secret ingredients. The proprietary recipe lasted for five years: experts tried to replicate the color of powder and famous Chanel boats in metal - one of the basic elements of the French house's palette. Beige gold is used in both jewelry and watches. The cases of the Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel models and the first men's watches Monsieur de Chanel are made of it. This alloy is resistant to corrosion and mechanical stress, not subject to discoloration.

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Sedna Gold, Omega

The signature 18K gold, developed in Omega laboratories, has a distinct red color. A certain proportion of copper in the Sedna alloy is responsible for it. In addition to it, the composition contains at least 75% pure gold and palladium, thanks to which the shade remains stable. The Omega alloy is named after the trans-Neptunian object, which astronomers who discovered it in 2003 gave the name of the mythological goddess Sedna. The surface of this space object is considered the reddest in the entire solar system. The alloy is patented by the Swatch Group and the Omega brandUses the durable and beautiful Sedna Gold material in both men's and women's watch ranges. The new Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Master Chronometer combines red gold with blue ceramics.

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Magic Gold, Hublot

Following its philosophy of "fusion", the watch brand Hublotproduced several composite materials: for example, the alloy of ceramics and metal Cermet or the combination of magnesium and aluminum Hublonium. But the most noble and revolutionary alloy is considered to be Magic Gold, developed by the metallurgists of the Nyon manufactory in 2011. After many years of research, they were able to fuse together pure gold with boron carbide (ceramics) and obtained 18-carat gold, which is more than twice as hard as traditional gold alloys. The new material reaches 1,000 on the Vickers scale, up from 400 for regular gold. When polished, the innovative alloy changes color from almost black to gold, for which it was named Magic Gold. The Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold watch has a case and bezel made of “magic gold”.

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Carbotec, Officine Panerai

A lightweight, hypoallergenic and durable carbon fiber composite - Carbotec - Officine Panerai introduced last year. The matte black case of the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech was crafted from an innovative material. Carbotec is produced in the following way: thin sheets of carbon fiber are laid on top of each other at different angles and pressed under the influence of temperature and high pressure with the addition of polyetheretherketone polymer, which makes the composite more durable and durable. Then, parts of the desired shape are cut out of the finished material, and, depending on the cutting direction, a unique pattern is formed on the surface of the watch case, bezel and device protecting the crown. In the 2016 collection, the new material is presented in the Luminor Marina 1950 Carbotech.

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Rubedo, Tiffany & Co.

The American jewelry company has traditionally been considered the leader in materials handling. It was Tiffany who set the purity standards for sterling silver and platinum in the United States. In 2012, for the 175th anniversary of the brand, a special alloy of rubedo (Rubedo, from the Latin word for "red") was created. The Alchemists Tiffany & Co. mixed in certain, kept secret, proportions, gold, silver and copper. The company makes from rubedo both one-piece products, such as cuff bracelets or wide rings from 1837, and bicolor earrings and pendants, in which the patented red alloy is combined with silver. Such items are cheaper than those made of pure 18-karat gold, but more expensive than similar jewelry made of silver.

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Gold Noble, H. Stern

Brazilian jewelry firm H.Stern can also boast of its gold recipe. The unique champagne-colored metal was invented by Robert Stern, the eldest son of the brand founder Hans Stern. To achieve the desired result, he researched more than 180 combinations of white and yellow gold and finally chose the only one that is now used in all H.Stern jewelry without exception. It looks perfect on the skin, especially when paired with light brown and light cognac diamonds that accentuate the champagne hue. So exquisite Noble Gold gives rise to only noble associations.

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Zalium, Harry Winston

This high-tech alloy was developed by engineer and chemist Ronald Winston, the son of Harry Winston, a famous diamond dealer and founder of a jewelry company. Borrowed from the aerospace industry, the new zirconium metal is lightweight, hard, wear-resistant, does not corrode or oxidize. An innovative dark gray material formed the basis of the special limited edition Project Z watch collection launched 15 years ago. In 2015, the brand's new owners, the Swatch Group, continued the project with the Project Z9 chronograph. Zalium is also used in the line of men's jewelry: gray metal in cufflinks, rings and pendants is enclosed in a white gold frame.

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Pandora Rose, Pandora

The Danish company Pandora, known for its bracelets with collectible charm pendants, also patented its signature recipe, Pandora Rose. A sterling silver alloy with a specific copper content has a delicate pink hue. In the Pandora Rose collection of the same name, pink is accentuated by a 14-carat microscopic rose gold plating. Therefore, charm pendants, earrings and rings with Pandora Rose hearts are more expensive than similar products made of pure silver - on average by 10-12%.>

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