Digest Watches & Wonders: The Most Complex And "devilish" Watches, Monopusheres

Digest Watches & Wonders: The Most Complex And "devilish" Watches, Monopusheres
Digest Watches & Wonders: The Most Complex And "devilish" Watches, Monopusheres

Video: Digest Watches & Wonders: The Most Complex And "devilish" Watches, Monopusheres

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Masterpiece of the day

The respected Swiss brand presents the most sophisticated wristwatch in 265 years. This is exactly how much the oldest operating watch manufactory celebrates this year. The Les Cabinotiers collection has been expanded by another unique masterpiece, the Grand Complication Split-Second Chronograph Tempo with 24 complications. Numerous indicators are perfectly distributed between the two dials of this reversible watch with a rotating rose gold case (diameter 50 mm, thickness 21 mm). On one side there are the drives of the split-chronograph and the perpetual calendar, on the other - the hour and minute hands, the indicator of the equation of time (hand with a counterweight in the form of the sun), a high-precision indicator of the lunar phases, the indicator of the day and night length and, finally, the tourbillon under the Maltese cross …

The name Tempo is not accidental: the minute repeater is also present, continuing the series La Musique du Temps. The in-house caliber 2756 consists of 1,163 parts.

Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Second Chronograph Tempo, Vacheron Constantin
Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Second Chronograph Tempo, Vacheron Constantin

1 of 2 Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Second Chronograph Tempo, Vacheron Constantin © Press Office of Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Second Chronograph Tempo, Vacheron Constantin © Press Office

Hours of the day

The most avant-garde of the Richemont Group brands, Roger Dubuis, celebrates its quarter-century anniversary. Over these 25 years, the brand has demonstrated an uncompromising attitude, an obsession with bold ideas, revolutionary design and technology. With a flying tourbillon and minute repeater, the new Excalibur is perhaps the culmination of a creative quest under the Roger Dubuis logo. It combines the innovative CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM composite material with the classic sounding time function, triggered by a trigger at 10 o'clock. Well, as a melody, the tritone is used - the interval Diabolus in Musica (from the Latin "devil in music"), which was forbidden in medieval religious music because of dissonance. A rotating transparent disc at "11 o'clock" with the indications of "hours", "quarters", "minutes" will help determine which time indicator sounds.The "Devil" watch was released in a single copy.

Excalibur Diabolus in Machina, Roger Dubuis
Excalibur Diabolus in Machina, Roger Dubuis

Excalibur Diabolus in Machina, Roger Dubuis © press service

Women's Day Watch

The design of this completely new watch line began with a bracelet. The team of the head of watch design at Cartier Marie-Laure Sered was tasked with creating a one-piece construction from the bracelet and the case, so the shape of the links, inspired by the gourmette chain, became the determining factor. As a result, a new hexagonal shape of the case was formed, smoothly turning into the weaving of an ergonomic bracelet - hence the name of the new Maillon collection. Inwardly curved polished links are angled so that all screws are hidden from view, as is the clasp. In addition to the three regular solid gold models, there are jewelery versions with full pavé on the case and bracelet, as well as two limited edition models with colored lacquer details.

Maillon de Cartier, Cartier
Maillon de Cartier, Cartier

1 of 8 Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office Maillon de Cartier, Cartier © Press Office

Trend of the day

Monopusher chronographs, with one-button start, stop and reset, are historically the earliest and still synonymous with exceptional technical prowess. As a rule, the chronograph pusher is built into the crown. Today we have met just such specimens from three brands at once. And these are quite complex and, as a rule, special models. Montblanc presents a monopusher chronograph in the “vintage” collection 1858 - the bronze alloy watch is released in a limited edition of 1858 pieces (the edition of a one-button chronograph in a steel case is not limited).

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph collectible watches fall into the category of “Major complications”. The responsibility for the flawless performance rests with the caliber 3200, prepared for the house's 260th anniversary and encased in a newly designed gold Etage design.

IWC commissioned its first monopusher chronograph to a watch from the Portugieser collection, using the special edition “Laureus Sport for Good”. Limited to 500 pieces.

Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher Edition "Laureus Sport for Good", IWC
Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher Edition "Laureus Sport for Good", IWC

1 of 3 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition 1858, Montblanc © Press Office Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Vacheron Constantin © Press Office Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher Edition "Laureus Sport for Good", IWC © Press Office

Learn about the Piaget record, the Portuguese and the new Pasha in the first Watches & Wonders digest.>

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