SIHH 2019: Anniversaries Around The Exhibition

SIHH 2019: Anniversaries Around The Exhibition
SIHH 2019: Anniversaries Around The Exhibition

Video: SIHH 2019: Anniversaries Around The Exhibition

Video: SIHH 2019 uncovered 2022, November
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50 years of Zenith El Primero

Half a century has passed since the legendary El Primero movement, created at the Zenith manufactory and marking a revolution in watchmaking. The first ever high-frequency (36 thousand vibrations per hour) automatic chronograph caliber could measure tenths of a second. The El Primero chronograph wristwatch set Zenith's aesthetic standard for a long time: the light gray seconds counter, the blue minute and anthracite steel timepieces are the stylistic code of the Le Locle-based manufactory.

Defy el primero 21
Defy el primero 21

1 of 3 Chronomaster 2 El Primero © press service El Primero A386 Revival © press service Defy El Primero 21 © press service

For the anniversary, the house Zenith has prepared a special set, issued in the amount of 50 copies, worth 50 thousand Swiss francs each. The cushioned drawer houses the Zenith trilogy: the 1969 reissue of the original in a 38 mm steel case; Chronomaster 2.0 with new generation El Primero movement in 42 mm steel case with black ceramic bezel; ultra-modern titanium chronograph Defy El Primero 21- with revolutionary caliber Defy El Primero (360 thousand vibrations per hour), measuring hundredths of a second. Another pad is designed for the latest development, which in a few years will detect thousandths of a second.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

Inside, the gift case is a miniature watchmaker's workplace with all the necessary tools. In addition to the trio of watches, the buyer of the anniversary set will receive a copy of one of the key elements of the El Primero caliber, which was secretly kept by the watchmaker Charles Vermot in the mansard of the manufacture in the midst of the quartz crisis, and thus saved from destruction.

50 years of Gerald Genta

The 50th anniversary of the watch brand founded by the genius of watch design Gerald Genta (passed away in 2011) marks the house of Bvlgari. In 2000, the Italian brand bought the Gerald Genta brand from the Hour Glass concern - this acquisition allowed Bvlgari to establish its own watch production and eventually organize its high-tech manufactory in Le Santier. Today, complex movements, striking watches, ultra-thin Finissimo calibers, which have already set four records for "subtlety", are produced here.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

Genta continues to be highly regarded at Bvlgari. Commemorative watch Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary has been released for the round date in a massive round Arena case made of platinum. The blue lacquered dial has two retrograde scales for the date and minutes, and the hour indicator switches instantly to another digit. The sophisticated functionality is controlled by the BVL 300 caliber, and this is the only indication that the watch belongs to the Bvlgari brand. The dial and clasp of the bracelet are exclusively engraved with the logo of the historic brand Gerald Genta.

20 years of Tourbillon Souverain FP Journe

The anniversary of the famous chronograph coincides with the round date of the FP Journe Invenit et Fecit manufacture itself. Over the years, independent Geneva watchmaker François-Paul Journe (in September 2018, Chanel acquired part of his shares) has become famous for his original collectible creations with exquisite finishes. In 1999, Journe presented the first Tourbillon Souverain with a constant-force remontoire in wristwatches (before that, a constant-force device was used only in pocket models) - a serious struggle broke out for 20 numbered copies. In the next generation of the Tourbillon Souverain in 2004, a frozen second hand appears, in addition, Journe decides to produce all of his "tall" movements entirely in rose gold.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

1 of 4 © press service © press service © press service © press service

For the 20th anniversary of the company, the watchmaker presents the Souverain with a vertical tourbillon carriage, which makes a revolution in 30 seconds. The carriage "at 9 o'clock" is framed by a highly polished tapered ring, which creates an additional play of light and reflections. The gold wheel drive bridge replaces the dial, while the hour dial itself with the hands is made of enamel and shifted to the 3 o'clock position. The permanent force repair is at the 7 o'clock position. The hand-wound caliber has an 80-hour power reserve.>

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