If someone decided to arrange a race among men's shirts, Marol would certainly be among the winners. The Bologna brand, named after the founders and their daughter (Manuela, Rozanne and Luciano), has been couting gentlemen and even some ladies for nearly 60 years. We hand over addresses, passwords, attendance: in Moscow, Marol lives in Frame stores. And at the same time we tell you what makes a good shirt such.
In London's Savile Row, a saying was born: "Good cutters cut to plant, bad cutters plant to cut." In general, it is by the fit that you can safely draw conclusions about the brand as a whole: regardless of whether it is made-to-measure, bespoke or a shop shirt, it should fit well. It is worth focusing, firstly, on the high armhole (it gives maximum freedom of movement to the arms), and secondly, on how the shirt sits in the chest and waist area: there should be no tension that makes the buttons "run up".
And yes, when trying on, be sure to wear a potential new outfit with a jacket. The duet is formed if the shirt collar is partially hidden behind the lapels, and the cuffs only half an inch (this is a little more than one centimeter) peek out from under the jacket sleeve.
The smaller and neater the stitch, the better. Marol is a record holder in this sense: they fit a dozen in a centimeter.
By the way, be wary of brands that tell you that their shirts are made without machine labor. In theory, this, of course, is possible, but the shirt, most likely, will not survive a couple of washings, not to mention weeks of socks: it will fall apart. So multiple machine seams are an absolute must. It is not for nothing that in the world of "custom tailoring" talented seamstresses-minders are valued no less than craftsmen who use a needle and thread.
Collar and cuffs
The eternal dispute whether or not to strengthen these vulnerable and always ironing parts of the shirt with the help of an adhesive fabric is in fact no dispute - just a matter of taste. As well as the type of collar: "Eton" with rounded corners is no worse than the French "shark fin".
© press service Frame
Almost all reputable shirting brands use hand-cut buttons with an Australian mother-of-pearl shell (Marol, however, can replace it with a horn at the client's request). At the same time, the pinnacle of skill is considered to be the coloring of these tiny but infinitely important details in the color of the shirt. And one more thing: the thicker the button, the better - if only because it is stronger.
Cashmere is the prerogative of the best brands: since the material is expensive, you will need a seasoned and gifted cutter, and such, as you understand, do not roll on the road. The so-called Jerseys shirts made of cotton or silk also require certain skills: before putting the fabric under the knife, it is kept taut for a day.
It is clear that such a problem will not arise with a white shirt, but if you like a cage, stripe or any other “ripple”, keep in mind: a good quality shirt has a print “flowing” from one detail to another. So, what should ideally "close"? Cuffs and sleeve (the strip is usually placed perpendicularly), sleeve and shelf, yoke and collar. In addition, a pocket should ideally fit into the "environment".
The correct shirt is not only good for the face. Almost no one, with the exception of the owner, should not wrinkle the invisible label and even more so fly off after washing, so it is not glued, but steamed.
In them, as you know, the devil, and the limit to perfection does not exist in principle. Hand-sewn loops, gusset (a small piece of fabric that "strengthens" the side seams) with a "house", a thick stitch on the bar above the cuff (again, it should "strengthen", but has long turned into a decorative element) … Finally, embroidered initials. By the way, the artisan from the Marol factory applies letters in just a minute, and she does it without the help of a stencil.>