Chris van Assch, former creative director of the Dior menswear line, has said on several occasions that he loves to combine streetwear and classics. It was all the more interesting to see how exactly he would manage to reconcile these two opposing worlds in his debut collection for Berluti, at home with a rather conservative audience.
“I didn't have to find a compromise, rather, I tried to cover several aspects at once. You know, the simplest move for me would be to come to Berluti and say: everything is very clear with our client - this is a convinced conservative who prefers classics, but I will still make a revolution and do something ultra-fashionable. However, this was not the point - I wanted to give the classic wardrobe a fashionable shape, to bring everything that Berluti is famous for to a new level. I greatly respect the traditions of the brand, and I wanted to multiply them,”Chris van Assch told.
The first image of the show is a brown leather suit with a patina effect. According to the designer, the starting point for its creation was a visit to the Berluti shoe production, where the designer got acquainted with the specifics of the work of the brand's masters, including the technique of patinage, to which there were plenty of references. Even things made of textiles van Assch conceived to do in a similar manner: shirts, raincoats, sweaters, coats and ties were supposedly covered with marble veins.
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Shoes and accessories were in line with the overall concept of the collection, combining modern trends and Berluti heritage. We saw metallic toes (including on sneakers), bold colors and, of course, patina.
The palette of the collection turned out to be alive, but at the same time not crossing the dangerous line: there is no fashionable neon, but the rich, as if reflecting light, blue, red and crimson, orange, noble green, wine are widely represented and clearly should be liked by regular customers of Berluti, so and a younger audience. Leather hoodies deserve special attention, over which van Assch wore the same patinated coats.
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Unexpectedly, but quite appropriate, leather trousers looked like the uniform of a motorcycle racer. The designer suggests wearing them with jackets (double-breasted and single-breasted), duffle coats, buttoned shirts and coats. The silhouettes turned out to be expectedly narrow, but not so much as to scare away the usual audience of the brand. The collection also found a place for voluminous things.
The real intrigue of the show was the appearance of female images. However, there is no need to talk about launching a separate line. “Berluti is a purely masculine brand and that will not change. It's just that this collection tells a story of love and seduction, which is why I decided to adapt the men's wardrobe for women,”said van Asch.
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The name, slogan and even the soundtrack of the show, which took place at the Opera Garnier, was the French Je t'aime - "I love you." “In my opinion, this world lacks love,” the designer admitted, “in addition, this is my first collection for the brand, and I am very happy and proud to be part of the team. Hence my confession”.
Let us remind you that in Russia the Berluti brand is presented exclusively at TSUM.>