Having lost one of the largest players - Burberry last year combined its "different-sex" shows into one and is now shown as part of the women's London Fashion Week (and in the see now, buy now format, so we will see the autumn-winter collection only in September) - London Men's Fashion Week, aka London Collections: Men, became less stellar at once. The brand managed to fill the first row with celebrities even in January, when most of them are in Los Angeles, where almost every day they receive awards for cinematic and other achievements and are honored at accompanying after-parties (a year ago, for example, the author of the hit “Uptown Funk "Marc Ronson with his wife, French actress Josephine de la Boome, and top model Jordan Dunn). Together with Burberry, Coach disappeared from the radar: after three shows in Albion, the brand changed geographic landmarks and threw a noisy party in Hollywood.
The situation was saved - like the English team once - by David Beckham, who half a year ago became a co-owner of the 90-year-old brand Kent & Curwen. Not only is the former footballer himself a celebrity of class "A", but also invited his wife Victoria and the eldest son of Brooklyn, who is gaining popularity, to the presentation of the collection.
However, the decline in "stardom" has its advantages: all the attention finally goes not to the guests, but to the clothes. Moreover, it often has a curious "origin": as it turned out, even the tense political situation adjusts to the creativity of designers.
Agi & Sam
Londoners Agap Mdumulla and Sam Cotton are joking about fashion (this is one of the main working principles of the creative duo), but politics, on the contrary, is very serious. And Britain's exit from the European Union is clearly not approved - it seems that this is what the woolen jacket with the flag of Europe should have hinted at.
Rising British fashion star Grace Wales Bonner, who received a € 300,000 grant from LVMH last year, is based on a photo of Dakar boys taken by photographer Patrick Cariou. The young lady is very partial to Africa, and therefore she spent more than one week at the Joseph and Annie Albers Foundation, studying the culture of Senegal.
The brand's team, consisting of Britons Cosette McCreary and Sid Brown, brought their muse from Barcelona. The partners visited the capital of Catalonia one by one - and fell in love with Park Guell. And upon their return, they "shifted" the fantasy mosaic created by Antoni Gaudi onto sweaters, trousers and even socks.
It is not the first time that the rebel Vivienne Westwood remembers our compatriot Sergei Diaghilev and his Russian Seasons: in general, the red-haired British woman has been referring to this unfading theme with enviable regularity since the late eighties. But for the first time a ballet tutu was walked not by a lady, but by a gentleman.
The heroes of the new collection (at least of an impressive part of it) are baroques from the 19th century. With the light hand of design director Gordon Richardson, the wooden barge workers got tattoos and put on sneakers, but in general they remained the same gloomy admirers of loose trousers, vests and fifty shades of gray.
The black berets in the collection of the Japanese Mihara Yasuhiro are an homage to several important political figures of the sixties at once: firstly, the Commander Che Guevara, and secondly, the Black Panther Party, which actively defended the civil rights of the black population. This revolutionary spirit did not come out of nowhere: “I see a lot of young people scared by the Trump presidency and what it promises,” the designer said before the show.
The creative director of the brand and its co-owner Patrick Grant admitted that he was inspired by no less than the pictures of documentary photographer Peter Mitchell - those in which the garden scarecrows were captured. It is good that the Englishman did not conceal - it would hardly have been possible to solve this "puzzle" on his own: already painfully the models at the show looked like exemplary (if not stereotypical) students of Oxford and Cambridge.
Paul Raymond - publisher, club owner and developer - lived a long life (he passed away in 2008 at the age of 82), but he shone brightest in the sixties and seventies, when he bought up London Soho piece by piece and recklessly reckoned. And he dressed, in general, exactly as befits a bon vivant from the disco era: catchy. The same - catchy - came out and the collection of Katie Irie, which the Englishwoman dedicated to the playthrough.>