It would seem, who might be surprised by the resignation of a designer today? Over the past five - seven years, we have seen them almost more than the resignations of governors, and that means something. Nevertheless, the departure of the English feminist Phoebe Fileo from the post of creative director of the French brand Celine was a blow in the stomach even for those who easily “let go” of Raf Simons from Dior to Calvin Klein and survived the firing of Albert Elbaz from Lanvin. Because, as dramatic as it may sound, it was not just Phoebe that was leaving, but an entire era. And her heroine, which the designer herself did not create immediately, but by the method of more trial and less mistakes: not a teenage girl (the fashion world is still obsessed with this type), a party girl who does not fly from party to party, not someone's very elegant "plus one", and the woman - both in body and soul;accustomed to making decisions on her own, creative, self-confident.
And also - and this is a really important factor - working. It seems that only Fileo came up with clothes suitable for gatherings in the office from nine to five (six, seven, eight - as you are lucky), not reducing everything to just one pantsuits and some sheath dresses. But even if life lacked either self-confidence or the "right" job, it was still nice to be a Celine girl in a pleated asymmetrical skirt or a baggy trench coat. Phoebe offered more than just clothes - a lifestyle.
Burberry Spring / Summer 2019 collection, designed by Riccardo Tisci © David M. Benett / Dave Benett / Getty Images
But a holy place, as you know, is never empty - and that also did not turn out to be: Celine is now run by Edi Slimane, talented in his own way (and not all these talents lie in the plane of design) and scandalous in his own way - a kind of rock star from the world of fashion. They say that the craftsman living in Los Angeles was called up to increase sales - after all, he once helped another French house with history quite well. We do not know who expected what from the Frenchman, but he apparently lives according to a different principle than the French If it ain't broke, don't fix it, and therefore does exactly the same thing as in Saint Laurent five or six years ago: changes the name (YSL then lost "Willow", now Celine - an accent over the "e"), shows half-child-style babydoll dresses mixed with other outfits of the "rocker girlfriend" (by a funny coincidence,Edie's replacement Anthony Vaccarello does something similar in Saint Laurent), does not invite Katie Horin to the show.
Instead of a critic in the front row, there is practically an Oscar nominee, Lady Gaga; Slimane knows how to add fire. And things from the debut collection are scattered along the red carpet. Dakota Johnson, Natalie Portman, Emma Stone, Lupita Nyong'o (in that order) - the Hollywood "quadriga" who is taking the designer, who has already added a men's line and promises couture, to success. At least commercial.
Celine Spring-Summer 2019 Collection, Designer Hedi Slimane © Ferdaus Shamim / WireImage; Peter White / Getty Images
There is a shift in another strategically important brand: Briton Christopher Bailey has passed the post, Italian Riccardo Tisci has taken over the post. And he issued a collection of more than 130 bows, for men and women. While the critics took a breath, the brand had already sent trench coats and other bows to influencers - no, not bloggers, but stars: Madonna, Rihanna, Julia Roberts, Carey Mulligan. Even though the latter does not even have a public instagram - it seems that promoting products through hundreds of identical bloggers tired everyone so much that there was a temptation to return to good old celebrity marketing. Let's see how the coming year will show itself in this regard.
An interesting multi-move was invented and implemented at LVMH. The Louis Vuitton men's line was given to the mercy of Virgil Abloh of Off-White, who immediately dropped the first row of the Kardashian sisters - Jenner and rappers. Meanwhile, Kim Jones, who had been inventing Louis Vuitton men's collections for seven years, was transferred to another "hot spot" - Dior Homme (the first thing he did was dress David Beckham for the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle; they said - celebrity marketing!), and Chris Van Assche from Dior Homme was transferred to Berluti. And all would be fine, but in this scheme there was no place for Haider Ackermann, a favorite of Tilda Swinton, and more recently also Timothy Chalamet. The designer worked at Berluti for a little over a year, after which he hastily retired, eventually making room for Chris van Assch. Chalamet, by the way, who wore clothes of the Italian brand for a whole year, left behind. And you,probably they believed that there is no place in fashion for sincere human relations!
Louis Vuitton Men's Spring / Summer 2019 Collection, designer Virgil Abloh © Victor Boyko / Getty Images; Timur Emek / Getty Images
By the way, about the sincere and human. The "harwigate" that shook the world last fall and other "abscesses" on the body of the entertainment industry and those adjacent to it, together with the ongoing gender struggle, "imprinted" on the fashion industry, as once leaflets about a suffragist parade - on paper. As a result, for the first time in … twenty years (or maybe just for the first time), fashion does not bet on sex, and sex itself, contrary to the behest of advertisers, is not for sale. Moreover, he literally disappeared from most of the collections. Even brands that had always harbored vulgarity in their DNA suddenly became modest.
Versace shows flowers in all seriousness (however, the company has already been acquired for a tidy sum of money by Michael Kors and now wants to promote it in the markets according to the established brand schemes, which means that very soon clothes will no longer matter at all - all the emphasis will be on shoes and accessories), and Roberto Cavalli is content with bicycles. And this paradigm shift is probably the most interesting thing that has happened in the industry in recent years. Consider fashion reflects, remembering how for decades it has adjusted women to "standards" initiated by men. However, this is not only a matter of the feminist agenda. The ubiquitous millennials have a much more complex gender identity than previous generations: every tenth representative, according to the results of one study, in principle does not associate himself with gender, others say,that gender is a "spectrum."
Dior Homme Spring / Summer 2019 collection, designed by Kim Jones © Peter White / Getty Images; David M. Benett / Dave Benett / Getty Images
When the concept of sexuality is so vague and ambiguous, many want to abandon it for reasons of their own reputational safety. Not inclined to doubt, unless Anthony Vaccarello in the Saint Laurent entrusted to him - he does not see any problem in the bare female legs. At the same time, in a conventional sense, feminine clothing returns to the catwalk: dresses, skirts - as a variable in some completely new equation. It seems that the stage of "pulling the pants" has already passed; And it's time to admit that it's not about pants: it's not for nothing that Phoebe Fileo has insisted for years that you can be the boss in a dress.
But athleisure, with its controversial (though it would seem!) Appointment, fades into the background. Unless you plan to consume it in the form offered by important new players in the industry: the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund-winning American brand Pyer Moss and last year's winner of the LVMH Young Designers' Prize, Frenchwoman Marine Serre. And they use this semi-sports genre insofar as.
Versace Spring-Summer 2019 Show; Cate Blanchett wearing Armani Privé at the 2014 Golden Globes; collection Saint
Laurent spring-summer - 2019; David Beckham at Dior Homme, designer Anthony Vaccarello © Peter White / Getty Images; Stephane Cardinale - Corbis / Corbis via Getty Images; Christopher Polk / NBC / NBC via Getty Images; Pool / Samir Hussein / WireImage; Estrop / Getty Images
But eco-awareness is gaining momentum. Over the past year, only the lazy has not announced a loud boycott of furs: Burberry, Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg and Coach followed Gucci and Versace. But that's not all. The red carpet is not that flooded, but, let's say, was decorated with representatives of the vintage (one of the apologists of the new trend was, oddly enough, Kim Kardashian). Brands no longer force their wards to wear outfits from the freshest collections: Cate Blanchett came to the opening of the Cannes Film Festival, where, by the way, she was the president of the main jury, in the Armani Privé dress, which she wore to the Golden Globes four years ago. The term rewearing has even come into use, that is, "re-putting on." They say that this is how the planet can be saved. This is not a bad goal, you see.>