So different camellia
Mademoiselle's favorite flower became the protagonist of the collection with the complex name 1.5: 1 Camelia. 5 Allures. The point is that one and the same flower can be worn in completely different ways, even within the same decoration. Therefore, out of 50 objects, 23, that is, almost half, are transformers. The necklace can be worn in four different ways, and the pendant that comes unfastened from it turns into a brooch. The central part in a large flower ring is taken out and replaced with a detail of a different shade - such metamorphoses with rings at Chanel occur for the first time. The pendants can also be detached from the earrings, and the brooch can be moved from the lapel to the belt and even into the hair. Chanel herself once admitted that her jewelry is universal and mobile: “They can be taken apart, worn with a fur coat or pinned to a hat.”
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Camellia is not the first time featured in Chanel collections. But if the 2013 Jardin de Camelias collection investigated the phenomenon of the flower itself, its types and "anatomy", then the current collection is built around a bud of exactly the same structure. Four rows of petals of different sizes radiate from the core (made of diamond or ruby), with four petals in the first "corolla", five in the second, then four again and five again. These petals are made of white or beige gold or carved into a solid piece of rose quartz. Chanel jewelers have thoroughly studied the structural features of the camellia - now they are interested in how to live with it and how to wear it.
Cartier jewelers turned their eyes to the sky and looked even higher - into space. The Les Galaxies de Cartier collection explores the relationship between space and earth, reality and fantasy, gravity and weightlessness. There are only 14 items here - but what! The well-known astronomical phenomenon of the planetary parade, in which the Sun, Mercury, Venus, Mars and Jupiter line up almost in a line, inspired the design of the five-row Tahitian pearl bracelet. Each pearl, placed in a white gold cage, rotates freely around its axis. The Fractal Meteor ring, pendant and bracelet were born after a meteor shower: pyramidal cones made of milk quartz, moonstone, gold and diamonds - like fragments of meteorites and asteroids that had fallen to the ground - were inserted into the opening of the frame from the inside. The cone-fractal pattern is applied to the inner side of the jewelry.
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The Earth Light set is an attempt to see the Earth from space. The yellow gold sphere is dotted with blue sapphires, diamonds, fire opals, symbolizing the sea and land. Each stone in an individual gold setting travels along rails cut into the spherical base of a ring or bracelet. Diamonds in Trembling Stars jewelry are also movably fixed. In 2015, Serti Vibrant was used for the first time in a Cartier watch - now a handful of diamonds vibrate against the background of dark metaquartzite under a rock crystal dome, reminiscent of star clusters.
The Swiss brand has presented a very small collection of jewelry, Magical Setting, united by the original “magic” setting of precious stones from the Big Three. The main subject of the experiment were rings, as well as pendants and earrings that vaguely resemble flower buds with petals. But if the central stone in them is fixed with four barely noticeable prongs, then the stones surrounding it practically float in the air - the details of the metal structure are invisible to the eye. The result is a precious cluster consisting of only round diamonds or diamonds combined with large sapphires from Sri Lanka, Colombian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. The white gold base that supports the stones allows them to reveal all their brilliance and splendor. Unlike traditional "flowers",where the core is surrounded by smaller petal stones, in Magical Setting jewelry, all the details are comparable in size, and the weight of the center stones reaches three carats or more.
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The presentation of the collection took place in the newly opened boutique of the Parisian jewelry house on the left bank of the Seine. The renewed collection is entirely dedicated to the well-recognized Josephine design, already a classic by Chaumet, with the addition of the sparkle of colored gemstones. The main element was the head jewelry, which was so loved by the wife of Napoleon I - the Aigrette Imperiale tiaras with a large central stone or fireworks of flying precious sparks (often a floral motif is guessed in it). Instead of sapphire, emerald or diamond, one of the tiaras is crowned with natural pearls of the 19th century taken from an old jewelry - a ring and earrings were made to match it. The Aigrette Imperiale necklace is actually the same tiara worn around the neck.
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The special line Soir de féte (“Festive evening”) includes large cocktail rings with emerald, sapphire, yellow diamond and cushion-cut red spinel, as well as magnificent necklaces - completely brilliant or of diamonds interspersed with 15 drops of scarlet rubies from Mozambique with a total weight of 31, 38 ct.>