10 Russian Brands That Were Talked About In

10 Russian Brands That Were Talked About In
10 Russian Brands That Were Talked About In

Video: 10 Russian Brands That Were Talked About In

Video: Топ-10 компаний в России || 2020 г. 2022, December
Anonim

House of leo

In the spring, designer Leonid Alekseev returned to fashion, who in 2014 closed the store of the brand of the same name, headed the design bureau of the Ministry of Defense and began to show author's collections exclusively within the framework of the "Association" project in Tsarskoye Selo. Fans of his early work and the students he teaches design at the Higher School of Economics, suddenly received an invitation to a large-scale show at Trekhgornaya Manufactory - Alekseev had been preparing a comeback for several months, but almost never told anyone about it.

His new clothes - predominantly for men, but also fit perfectly on women - now came out under the name House of Leo. It became an homage to the designer's favorite constellation, which is responsible for love, joy and well-being in the home. The concept of the brand is a journey through Dad's wardrobe, retelling family stories and modernizing vintage aesthetics. So, in the outgoing season, Leonid Alekseev proposed wearing coats and uniforms (his father was engaged in yachting all his life), and in the winter of 2021 - cowboy hats and bags resembling a holster (they symbolized “farewell to illusions of adulthood”). Showrooms of the brand were opened in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

House of Leo, fall-winter 2020/21
House of Leo, fall-winter 2020/21

1 of 10 House of Leo, fall-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, fall-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, fall-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, fall-winter 2020 / 21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn- winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko House of Leo, autumn-winter 2020/21 © Victor Boyko

Roma Uvarov Design

В 2016 году уроженец Майкопа Роман Уваров, переехавший в Краснодар учиться мастерству рекламы и пиара, покупал в масс-маркете футболки за 300 руб. и печатал на них коллажи, сделанные в фотошопе. А сегодня журналы i-D, Garage, Purple Magazine и Vogue Italia называют его «самым странным» и «выдающимся» дизайнером новой России, который «переосмысливает советскую историю» нашей страны. Нет, за прошедшие три года Уваров не оканчивал Saint Martins и не выигрывал грант LVMH, а просто продолжал делать то, что у него хорошо получается - находить красоту в привычных вещах и создавать из них что-то эксклюзивное, самобытное и дорогое.

Photos of the Soviet feast at the self-taught designer are transformed into prints on architectural jackets, the severed heads of dolls into brooches on baseball caps and dresses, and artificial flowers found on the market into harnesses no worse than those of Sarah Burton and Virgil Abloh. Roman Uvarov, who won the competition for young designers in 2018 and became a resident of the NOB agency, shows all of them at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Moscow and as part of an exit showroom in Paris. “I like the format of exhibitions, where you can see and study the collection in detail, so next year I plan to stick to it. I want to combine unusual design and rational consumption and create things from recycled materials,”the designer shares his plans.

Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020
Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020

1 of 10 Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design service, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service Roma Uvarov Design, spring-summer 2020 © press service

ODOR

Another NOB Agency resident, the founder of the ODOR brand, Nikita Kalmykov, has been proving for four years that curtain shirts and tablecloth trousers can not only be worn in everyday life, but also look beautiful and modern in them. He first found home textiles from Richelieu laces in the stocks left over from his great-grandmother, and then began to mine vintage fabrics in European markets and antique ruins. Nikita Kalmykov combines ancient artifacts with contemporary design: for example, lace covered with milky organza went into the production of an insert for an anorak blouse, and from the material of the 19th century, men's shirts with a provocatively transparent back turned out.

“The Russian understanding of masculinity means following a huge number of stereotypes and clichés. Modest nondescript clothes, homophobia, slovenliness and negligence - in Russia, this suggests that you are a real man. But for me a real man is a man with absolute inner freedom, open sexuality and non-stereotypical thinking. I specifically take off my clothes in public from all over the world. I want to show that masculinity can be different,”he told about the idea of ​​his iD collections. In the coming year, Nikita plans to work with artists and musicians, as well as continue to cooperate with international partners (now ODOR collections appear in many foreign magazines, including V, Sicky and Kaltblut).

Odor, spring-summer 2020
Odor, spring-summer 2020

1 of 10 Odor, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © Odor Press Service, Spring-Summer 2020 © press service

M_U_R

Anna Druzhinina from St. Petersburg became famous thanks to her participation in the IZBA project, in which she presented interior items at the Salone del Mobile in Milan, as well as the creation of porcelain dolls Fedor Toy, which she dressed in architectural dresses of bright colors. Over time, the toy looks grew into real collections: under the new brand Druzhinina M_U_R, flower combinations, transparent blouses and knitted bags began to appear. All of them are made of fabrics made in Russia and Uzbekistan: Ivanovo flax, Shuya chintz and silk from the Fergana Valley. And sometimes from materials found from collectors and former employees of the St. Petersburg Fashion House: cotton from the 50s and 70s and cuts from the pre-revolutionary era.

“Of course, the choice [of Russian fabrics] is very modest, but it makes the brain work, it becomes even more interesting to invent,” says Druzhinina. - Maybe even more interesting than if they brought me Italian catalogs with thousands of colors. I would definitely be confused and rushed about. And so the game begins, as in Soviet times, when our mothers made dresses from what was. There is a curtain - you sew an outfit from a curtain. So we, in fact, sew from the curtain."

M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20
M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20

1 of 10 M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, fall-winter 2019/20 © press- M_U_R service, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service M_U_R, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service

Flor et Lavr

Frol Burimsky also works with the cultural heritage of Uzbekistan, who, after leaving the fashion house Ulyana Sergeenko and organizing shows of Russian designers in Qatar, founded his own brand Flor et Lavr. The first and so far the only collection, shown during Paris Haute Couture Week in June, used vintage fabrics and accessories found in flea markets and auctions in the country. For example, the green overcoat is made of Uzbek velvet, hand-woven according to the traditional technology, and one of the shirts includes an old Soviet crepe de Chine. Due to the limited number of materials, labor intensity of work and an individual approach to customers, each Flor et Lavr thing comes out in a single copy. This makes waiting for new releases not only the international press,which noted the successful launch of Burimsky's brand (for example, Vogue US and WWD wrote about the collection), but also potential customers who have not yet made a purchase.

Flor et Lavr, fall-winter 2019/20
Flor et Lavr, fall-winter 2019/20

1 of 10 Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall -winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office Flor et Lavr, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press- Flor et Lavr service, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service Flor et Lavr, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service Flor et Lavr, fall-winter 2019/20 © press service

J. Kim

For the designer Zhenya Kim, the Uzbek culture is completely native: to Moscow, where the brand of the same name was opened in 2013, the girl moved from Tashkent. A few months ago, she suspended the release of collections and went back home: she studied handicraft techniques, learned textile production, got acquainted with local embroiderers and looked for national fabrics. And at the September showroom Dear Progress in Paris, which is organized every season by Sasha Krymova and Denis Yerkhov, she presented J. Kim clothes for the spring-summer 2020 season: cotton shirts hand-dyed by Uzbek craftswomen, trousers with belbocks - men's belt scarves and skirts in the patchwork technique, which in Uzbekistan is called "trigger". Zhenya Kim admits that this collection was the most difficult in her entire career, but in 2020 she promises to release a sequel - a series of shoppers,the creation of which was helped by an 80-year-old grandmother.

J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020
J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020

1 of 10 J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press Office J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press Office J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press Office J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press- J. Kim Spring-Summer 2020 © J. Kim Press, Spring-Summer 2020 © J. Kim Press, Spring-Summer 2020 © J. Kim Press, Spring-Summer 2020 © J Kim Press, Spring-Summer 2020 © J Kim Press. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press Office J. Kim, Spring-Summer 2020 © Press Office

404 Not Found

The well-coordinated work of Alena Feliksova, who is responsible for the development of the collections, and Anton Rudzat, who is engaged in external communications, made the 404 Not Found brand one of the most popular among domestic celebrities in a year and a half. Clothes in the style of romantic grunge - pleated skirts "Blade", blank sweatshirts with the inscription "Xanax", cocktail dresses with voluminous sleeves and fitted jackets with hand-printed permanent paint - are preferred by Alesya Kafelnikova, Nastasya Samburskaya, Aglaya Tarasova, Maria Abashova, Elizaveta and Christina Asmus. With their help, the ideologues of the brand are trying to form an idea of ​​the integral image of a Russian girl, which in our country, unlike France and Japan, does not yet exist. Hence the "erroneous" brand name - 404 Not Found, which adorns the fiery red tags of things,a sign of their own production in St. Petersburg, as well as an announcement of a showroom in Paris, where Alena Feliksova and Anton Rudzat show collections to interested foreign buyers.

404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020
404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020

1 of 10 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat 404 Not Found, spring-summer 2020 © Anton Rudzat

Ola Ola

Olga Ginzburg, formerly the ideologist of the Druzhba bar and the 100 of our own gallery, made her debut collection in collaboration with one of the most discussed artists of 2019, Danini. The pythia of contemporary art has transferred its works to velvet bombers and denim shirt front - hussars with bags from Pyaterochka and headless four-legged dancers, whose images have also adorned the Ola Ola concept store in St. Petersburg and hundreds of Instagram accounts. In the next collection, history repeated itself, but the embroidery was already invented by Olga herself: the phrases "Everything on time", "Is she already here?" and “I am not reflected in the mirror,” overheard in conversations with friends and disguised as camouflage prints, appeared on baroque tops, silk blouses and soft shell coats. In 2020, there will be embroidery too - the designer promises to show them in Paris.

Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20
Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20

1 of 10 Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, fall-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk Ola Ola, autumn-winter 2019/20 © Danil Yaroshchuk

Red September

One of the headliners of Moscow Fashion Week Olga Vasyukova, for an interview with whom there are lines of journalists from Hypebae, Nowfashion and Vogue Italia, in January will move with the presentation of the collection at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Several years ago, she studied there as a fashion designer at the Polimoda school, which laid the principles of architecture and experimentation for future works. Red September jackets necessarily get square shoulders, skirts of different lengths have the same pleated pleats, and coats get cutouts made as if by mathematical calculations. Although in the development of accessories Olga Vasyukova allows herself more immediacy: the clothes are complemented by leather toys-bears, cardboard masks in the form of wild animals and bags resembling milk packaging.

Red September, spring-summer 2020
Red September, spring-summer 2020

1 of 10 Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service Red September -service Red September, spring-summer 2020 © press service

N.early N.aked

The Moscow shoe brand N.early N.aked appeared in 2019 on the initiative of two girls: Irina Kuksheva, who was engaged in ballroom dancing in her youth, and after a long time worked in the field of design, and Elizaveta Buinova, who created accessories for Proenza Schouler, Ann Demeulemeester and AF Vandevorst and talked about her work on the shoes & drinks Telegram channel. In November 2017, Irina approached Elizabeth with a proposal to develop sexy yet comfortable low-heeled pumps using ballroom dance shoe technology. “I asked why, in fact, ballroom dancing,” said the girl in one of her posts. - To which Ira replied that to all the funniest parties she brings with her her old shoes, in which she danced,and after the first two hours (when they are still sober and look at their shoes) he changes his shoes and dances until morning."

After a year and a half, during which the design, prototype and factories were changing, the co-founders of N.early N.aked presented a collection of boats in Moscow, which were completely sold out in four months. And clients who tried on new items at least once were not at all surprised: the shoes received a soft and bendable sole that repeats the movements of the foot, a comfortable and elastic edging that does not cut into the foot, and a stable six-centimeter heel, recessed two centimeters under the heel (so it provides the necessary support for the spine). “Our plans for 2020 are rather modest - to continue working,” says Elizaveta Buinova. - The summer collection is already being made in Italy, plus we have improved the design - now our shoes are even more comfortable. And yes, the beige pumps will definitely be back on sale. We have already realized that not everyone was enough!"

N.early N.aked, fall-winter 2019/20
N.early N.aked, fall-winter 2019/20

1 of 10 N.early N.aked, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © N.early N.aked Press Office, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © N.early N.aked Press Service, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office N.early N.aked, Autumn-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office N.early N.aked, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © Press Office N.early N.aked, Fall-Winter 2019 / 20 © N.early N.aked Press Office, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © N.early N.aked Press Service, Fall-Winter 2019/20 © N.early N.aked Press Service, Fall-Winter 2019 / 20 © press service N.early N.aked, autumn-winter 2019/20 © press service>

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