How Some Of The Most Expensive Shoes In The World Are Made

How Some Of The Most Expensive Shoes In The World Are Made
How Some Of The Most Expensive Shoes In The World Are Made

Video: How Some Of The Most Expensive Shoes In The World Are Made

Video: The Most Expensive Shoes In The World 2022, November
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For a century and a half, the brand, created by the Italian Alessandro Berluti in Paris, has undergone many changes. But in the heart of the house there is still a bespoke-studio, where everything has been preserved almost in its original form. “People come to us not only for shoes. Customers get experience, skill, history,”they say in the atelier. And if in a world oversaturated with brands and things, customers are ready to wait for their pair for nine months (this is the minimum period), and sometimes they order two dozen pairs at once (taking into account that the most budget model costs 6 thousand euros), then in these loafers and Oxfords have something really valuable.

Ordering shoes at Berluti can be compared to traveling in time - in an era when life was much calmer, and things were not phenomena of one season.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

John F. Kennedy and Pablo Picasso, Frank Sinatra and Aristotle Onassis, Edward, Duke of Windsor and Jean Cocteau - in the past and present, the brand has so many famous customers that any other brand can only envy. Berluti has a special relationship with some of them. For example, the company's founder's great-granddaughter Olga Berluti designed Andy moccasins especially for Andy Warhol. The pair is still present in the collection and is considered one of the brand's bestsellers along with Alessandro loafers. There is also a pair of boots, originally designed for Greta Garbo and later redesigned for Rudolph Valentino. Today this model has hardly changed externally, but it has become much more technologically advanced and significantly lighter.

“There is no more vulgar sight than a man who is cramped in his shoes,” Olga Berluti once said. Taking measurements in this sense is of great importance. As a rule, the first visit to the studio takes about an hour: the master communicates with the client, tries to understand his character, asks about the style, wishes, lifestyle, family, home and favorite countries. According to the masters, they strive to create shoes that would ideally fit not only the foot, but also the eyes, and would also become the basis of the entire silhouette, correcting possible figure flaws. Therefore, two measurements are taken: when the customer is standing and sitting, because the foot "behaves" differently depending on the position of the body.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

At the same stage, they discuss the design, always specifying the "program" and "project" of the client. The program is the date by which the shoes will be needed, for example, a wedding in nine months. A project is a couple that the client dreams of. The brand has a huge archive of photographs and sketches of models that you can focus on, but in general, Berluti is able to realize almost any fantasy. Whether it's the James Bond boots from Doctor No or the sturgeon leather derby - the most difficult material to work with. This type of leather is especially appreciated for its complex relief, it takes a lot of time and a lot of skill to maintain it.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

Only technical features can become an obstacle. For example, if a customer wants a pair of kangaroo leather, with a specific sole and with specific stitches, they try to explain to him that this material is very thin and in this case not all processing methods are suitable. However, compromise and common ground are always found.

Each client who has at least once turned to the services of a studio has his own shoe last. This foot mock-up is created from a whole piece of wood, the master cuts the bar step by step with a special knife, achieving a perfect shape and approaching ideal measurements. The work requires special attention: the tool is sharp and at the same time quite tight, so that inadvertently you can cut off an extra piece and everything will have to start over. Partly such a painstaking process is due to the fact that, unlike the same suit, where errors can be corrected at almost any stage, the shoe maker has no right to make mistakes: everything has to start from scratch.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

Each last is created in two copies - for a workshop in Paris and a manufactory in Italy. It is interesting that Alessandro Berluti himself was famous for his ability to understand the types of wood and their properties, which was very useful to him at first. Wood still has a special value for the home: even the invitation to the show of the collection of the new Berluti creative director Chris Van Asch was decorated in the form of a large wooden block.

Some clients are offered to immediately decide on the color. In the late 1950s, Berluti revolutionized itself by creating an innovative palette that included complex shades like lime flowing into yellow, rich inky, rich pinot noir and many others. Today, the color range is even wider, and shoes are polished very carefully, almost to a mirror shine.

Photo: press service
Photo: press service

© press service

Any pair can be made even more personal: for example, some of the clients add their initials to the sole, and someone wants a specific model of monks, but with buckles that are not in the brand's collection. Then a new design of the parts is developed, but this also takes additional time.

Now the studio has two craftsmen who have been creating shoes for Berluti for more than half a century. They could have retired long ago, but they still continue to work. When asked why they say that they finally feel progress in their work. The atelier notes that every order, even from long-term clients, is always a challenge and a completely new project: "Creating a pair of shoes is comparable to calligraphy: we can all draw A and B, but everyone has their own handwriting."

In Russia, the Berluti brand is exclusively represented at TSUM.>

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