Claire Chuan of Boucheron has long dreamed of capturing the elusive beauty of nature. Her latest high collection, Contemplation, is very personal and intimate. “The idea was to show the incredible beauty of the simplest things - a floating cloud, a breath of wind, a weightless feather,” explains the author. Their lightness, subtlety, ephemerality, subtle quivering - the matter is very far from the traditional precious metals and diamonds for jewelry.
"Contemplation" turned out to be an unusually complex collection in technical terms, which required not only engineering ingenuity, but also the search for new materials. The Goutte de ciel necklace is a piece of heaven that can be worn around the neck. None of the existing stones fit the role of a celestial substance, so the craftsmen had to resort to a synthetic airgel material, consisting of 99 percent air and silicon dioxide. This fragile airy substance, which NASA uses to collect stardust, Claire Chuang encased in a shell of rock crystal and turned into an extraordinary pendant.
Jewelry dandelion in jewelry from the Avant le Frisson set is no worse than the real one, with white fluffy umbrellas ready to fly. Tiny diamonds on the thinnest, not thicker than a hair, titanium threads, tremble at the slightest movement, and each diamond is surrounded by a rim of the same thin titanium rods. Titanium helped Claire revive the traditional tremblant flower brooch technique that was widespread in the 1950s. However, the designer is not afraid of bold radical decisions in the spirit of contemporary art.
1 of 36 Goutte de Ciel transformable necklace © press service Airgel Goutte de Ciel transforming necklace En passant necklace Question mark necklace Perles de Plume Miroirs Infinis ring © press service Murmuration Avant le Frisson necklace
The wide flexible Fenetre sur Ciel necklace is indeed a window to the sky. A titanium-framed sheet of tiny mother-of-pearl honeycomb, airbrushed with varnish, inspired by James Turrell's Open Skies. Responsible for the precious part is a 35-carat sugarloaf tanzanite that adorns the diamond clip.
1 of 10 Fenetre sur Ciel necklace Nuage en Apesanteur necklace, cotton mock Nuage en Apesanteur necklace Nuage en Apesanteur necklace
An absolute jewelery miracle, the Nuage en Apesanteur necklace envelops like a cloud. It consists of 10 thousand titanium strands covered with 4018 diamonds and glass beads that imitate water droplets. The development of the cloud necklace took two years: it began with a mock-up of cotton wool (which was then scanned in volume), and ended with a digital algorithm to find the perfect combination and create a levitation effect.
Technically simpler things are no less impressive. For example, Bleu Infini earrings made of two rare ultra-fine pear cut aquamarines - their total weight exceeds 120 carats. Or the Goutte de Silence set, which is a new interpretation of the iconic Serpent Boheme motif. Elements of a more elongated shape, compared to the classic motif, make up a transformable necklace and earrings that can be worn in six different ways. Or Caresse de Plume jewelry with delicate feathers carved from a thin layer of curved mother-of-pearl with filigree filigree filaments. The fastening of the ring or brooch is not at all noticeable, so it seems that the weightless feather just lies on the hand or sank on the lapel.
1 of 17 Bleu Infini Earrings Caresse de Plume Brooch Avant le Frisson Necklace En Passant Earrings
“The art of a jeweler is to stop time, keeping the moment forever, which is inherently impossible,” says Claire Chuan. However, the 67 Contemplation jewelery pieces she created prove otherwise.>