Bronzed: Why Watches With Patina Are Gaining Popularity

Bronzed: Why Watches With Patina Are Gaining Popularity
Bronzed: Why Watches With Patina Are Gaining Popularity

Video: Bronzed: Why Watches With Patina Are Gaining Popularity

Video: Why Are Bronze Watches Popular? (Patina & Wabi-Sabi) 2022, November
Anonim

For quite a long time, bronze was not considered as a material for the manufacture of wrist watch cases. This oldest of alloys (its composition was invented by mankind about 5.5 thousand years ago) has a number of disadvantages: the surface of the parts oxidizes, giving a whole bunch of shades from brownish-grayish to turquoise, and stains remain on the wearer's hand from the watch case. Therefore, watchmakers preferred the easier to work steel and brass. Over time, bronze nevertheless penetrated into the holy of holies of almost all modern mechanical watches - into their mechanism: the balance rim is made from exotic high-tech beryllium bronze.

The first to think about the use of bronze in the manufacture of wristwatches was the great designer and tireless inventor Gerald Genta - the author of the Royal Oak and Nautilus designs. The legend, launched by him himself, says that the initial impetus was the desire to create a non-reflective watch case for his hunter friends who were going on safari (you cannot allow the sunbeams to frighten off the prey). It seems that Genta used this bike to substantiate the idea of ​​creating a luxury bronze watch that no one had made before. To match the legend, he came up with a "talking" name for his first watch from this alloy - Gefica. It seems to be made up of the initial letters of the names of those very hunter friends. (By the way, bronze is not the only material science experiment of the designer: Teflon was used in watchmaking with his light hand,glass and carbon fiber.)

1) Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire, IWC 2) Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire, IWC 3) Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph, Montblanc 4) Submersible Bronzo 47 mm, Panerai 5) Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition, Oris 6) London Chronograph Bronze, Speake-Marin
1) Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire, IWC 2) Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire, IWC 3) Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph, Montblanc 4) Submersible Bronzo 47 mm, Panerai 5) Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition, Oris 6) London Chronograph Bronze, Speake-Marin

1) Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire, IWC

2) Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire, IWC

3) Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph, Montblanc

4) Submersible Bronzo 47 mm, Panerai

5) Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition, Oris

6) London Chronograph Bronze, Speake-Marin © press service

Genta approached the production of the first Gefica model very responsibly, taking into account all the details. In particular, he figured out how to get rid of the direct contact of the bronze case with the skin of the hand: the watch was equipped with a case back made of stainless steel. The first copies of the bronze Gefica were released in 1988. At that time, the professional community did not pick up on Genta's idea. The reaction was also cool to the release in 2007 by the Gérald Genta brand (at that time it was no longer owned by its founder) a new impressive version of the bronze Gefica Safari. By the way, they are the first to use the most advantageous combination of a bronze case and a titanium case back.

The Panerai company found the right marketing ploy in 2011. She associated bronze watches with a nautical theme and even with a significant bias towards the military. The hit was not in the eyebrow, but in the eye: a thousand copies of the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo were reported to have instantly spread across the paneristi community. And they are clearly in no hurry to part with the first Paneraevskaya "bronze", therefore the prices of patinated copies in the secondary market now significantly exceed the initial cost.

1) FB 1R Edition, Ferdinand Berthoud (2018) 2) Black Bay Bronze, Tudor 3) Joker Halloween, Konstantin Chaykin (2018) 4) Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph, Montblanc 5) Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure, Zenith
1) FB 1R Edition, Ferdinand Berthoud (2018) 2) Black Bay Bronze, Tudor 3) Joker Halloween, Konstantin Chaykin (2018) 4) Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph, Montblanc 5) Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure, Zenith

1) FB 1R Edition, Ferdinand Berthoud (2018)

2) Black Bay Bronze, Tudor

3) Joker Halloween, Konstantin Chaykin (2018)

4) Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph, Montblanc

5) Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure, Zenith © Press Services

The naval theme gave the noble material incredible dynamism and popularity: brands such as IWC Schaffhausen, Zenith, Tudor, Oris joined the bronze movement. Last year, bronze novelties were mainly limited to limited editions: Ferdinand Berthoud presented five unique FB 1R Edition 1785 with pre-patinated cases, and Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaikin used bronze for the Pumpkin Head, a special version of his signature Joker, made for All's Day saints.

Montblanc also produces bronze in limited editions: the split-chronograph 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition is limited to 100 pieces, while the automatic three-hand dial and chronograph with protective green dials are released in the number of 1,858 pieces. The IWC manufactory has dressed four models from the renewed Spitfire line in bronze, combined with an olive dial, and supplied them with in-house calibers. The watches with the perpetual calendar function and the second time zone are limited edition, and the Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire and Watch Automatic Spitfire are issued in regular editions. Inspired by the legendary onboard instruments, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special is also in bronze (a military vintage series launched in 2015).New to the Adventure series, it is paired with a grainy khaki dial and a camouflage print strap. This series is not limited. And, of course, the house of Panerai pleased its fans: the release of the Submersible Bronzo watch with an updated design in a 47 mm brushed bronze case with a beautiful brown dial will not be limited.>

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