Here's the irony: against the background of the tightening of migration policy in New York, as part of the fashion week (his name is legion, yes) several foreigners were shown at once: some of them, like the Ovadia brothers, moved to the States as children, some- then - like Raf Simons - moved relatively recently.
Fortunately, there are fewer borders in the fashion industry than on the globe.
Raf is now a full-fledged New Yorker: not only did Simons take the helm of Calvin Klein, he also transferred his signature men's line from the Old World to the New Show, which - with rare exceptions - has been presented for years in Paris. And now I'm ready, if not to shout about love for the Big Apple, then at least write: in the freshest collection there was a place for a pair of three sweaters with confessions of tender feelings - exactly the same inscriptions with a heart instead of love can be found on white T-shirts from local souvenir shops. But what in the latter, alas, you will not find is satin coats, deliberately "wide-shouldered" jackets and moderately wide trousers that are gathered at the ankle.
We say Boss - we mean a suit. But, it seems, not this time: the creative director of the German brand Ingo Wilts tried to get rid of the prevailing stereotype. No, there are suits, of course, in the collection (after all, we are talking about the brand that made the name on office wear). Another thing is that they are not assigned the main role. Numerous representatives of outerwear catch the eye: from a parka to a sheepskin coat, from a duffle coat to a leather coat. By the way, Ingo also played enough with the notorious office dress code: the place of shirts was unexpectedly taken by olympics.
The beginning of 2017 turned out to be stormy for the brand, to put it mildly. Lauren volunteered to dress Melania Trump (blue, in the spirit of Jackie O, the outfit of the former model - his handiwork) - and automatically made enemies among the haters of the new president of America, of whom there are especially many in the fashion industry. In addition, the other day it became known about the departure of CEO Stefan Larsson, which led to an immediate drop in the share price. But you shouldn't be afraid for the brand - at least while Ralph Lauren Purple Label supplies good-quality tuxedos to wardrobes (with a dark purple velvet put on a jacket or with a vest - it's up to you). Although pea coats, sweaters and even leather trousers are also noteworthy.
Ovadia & Sons
The father of Jerusalem-born twins Ariel and Shimon Ovadia served in the Israeli army and played professional football - here's the key to understanding the new collection of designers. For "militarization" are the shades of khakis, parkas, cargo pants and camouflage (believable and leopard). The physical education component is also interpreted quite literally: tracksuits, bombers, sweatshirts. Plus shirts (more like a button-free soccer shirt than an office shirt) with the brand name written in Hebrew and the menorah emblem.
Once the winner of the prestigious CFDA award as "Best Menswear Designer", William Reed still lives in his native Alabama (where the brand's headquarters is located). And he does not hide at all that it is the American South that inspires him. Not a hint of white collar and Wall Street: despite the dominance of the jacket, all this more gives off beatness and Brooklyn.
John Varvatos, a “fatal” concoctor, turned out to be also a romantic: his new collection is an ode not to rebellion (which, in general, would be expected against the background of a tense political situation: even European designers have spoken out on the topic of long-dead American elections and their results), but rebelliousness. Coats with two rows of shiny buttons, vests worn on a naked body, thin scarves from the 70s - this could be how not only a rocker - the eternal hero of John Varvatos - could dress up, but also some quivering poet. Although these are often two extremes of one essence.