The new jewelry was presented by Zaha Hadid Architects Director Maha Kutai and Bulgari Marketing Director Boris Barboni at the Zaha Hadid Gallery in London. In this space, opened five years ago for the permanent exhibition of works and projects by Hadid and her bureau and temporary exhibitions dedicated to architecture and design, the new B.zero1 fit perfectly, because they are made in the impeccably recognizable Zaha style, but at the same time they managed to preserve everything. Bulgari codes, which is not so easy, given the two completely different design universes in which Italian jewelers create and an architect based in London since the late 1970s. Bulgari stands for perfect symmetry and Hadid stands for asymmetry; Bulgari- these are bright colors of the Mediterranean, Hadid - monochrome, or, especially if we recall the works created under the influence of the Russian avant-garde, - suprematist colors.
Zaha Hadid - famous architect and designer, first female architect to be awarded the Pritzker Prize
Malevich's Suprematism in general became for Hadid the basis for the study of space, her architecture has always been not about the building itself, but about the study of space and fitting this building into space. She worked with jewelry in a similar manner. She “inscribed” them into the body, striving for the organicity and ergonomics of the cosmic look of precious designs. B.zero1 was not Hadid's first experience with jewelry. Back in 2014, her partnership with the Lebanese brand Aziz & Walid Mouzannar began; more than once she created jewelry for Swarovski, and at last year's Baselworld in Basel, Switzerland (just a few days before the architect's death), her jewelry for Georg Jensen was presented.
Installation Serpenti in Milan
Although not the first experience with jewelry, it stands out from the rest. After all, here Hadid had to work (and it is worth noting that she did most of the project personally, all the sketches of jewelry were drawn by her hand) not just with jewelry, but with the Bulgari “icon”. Timed to coincide with the coming of the millennium and first presented in 1999, B.zero1 was inspired by Roman architecture, namely the Colosseum, and became a very futuristic reworking of its architecture for that time. Now Hadid has redesigned the architecture of B.zero1 - rebuilt the Colosseum. She deconstructed the center of the ring, making it asymmetrical and skeletonized for the first time. In this B.zero1 Design Legend resembles many of her architectural projects, especially the Galaxy Soho in Beijing - in both, the interior space is important, connections and intersections are important.
The Zaha Hadid Design Gallery in London
Hadid's collaboration with Bulgari began back in 2011, when she presented an installation in the Bulgari Pavilion at the Abu Dhabi Art Fair - her interpretation of Bulgari 's iconic Serpenti symbol, which was later seen in Milan in 2015. Then, in 2015, the idea was born to continue cooperation in a new form - to create a joint collection of jewelry. And immediately B.zero1 was chosen for this experiment. Hadid came up with four design options, one of which was accepted as perfect and never changed.
How did such different design universes manage to "get married"? According to Kutai and Barboni, there are two concepts - innovation and experiment. As different as the aesthetics of Bulgari and Zaha Hadid Architecture + Design may be, it is innovation and experimentation that drives the development of brands. Bulgari ranks among its innovations both aesthetic (revolutionary for the 1960s the combination of precious stones with ornamental stones and the choice of the brightest color combinations) and technical (such as the flexible tubeogaz bracelet, a patent for which was acquired by the firm in the 1950s from brothers Carlo and Vincenzo Illario (now the brand Carlo Luca della Quercia).
Now B.zero1 Design Legend exists in the form of rings of different widths, pendants and wide cuff bracelets in white or rose gold, but, apparently, this experiment was considered successful both by Bulgari and Zaha Hadid Architecture + Design, which means that the collection will continue. ￼Makha Kutai, Director of Zaha Hadid Architects, told about the full dedication, with which Zaha Hadid taught her entire team, and her new projects.
Maha Kutai - Director of Zaha Hadid Architects
- Was this project more difficult than your other collaborations with jewelry brands?
- I would not say that he turned out to be more difficult, he just was different. The design of B.Zero1, created by our bureau, is very close to the concept of our architectural projects - lines, repetitiveness of elements, smoothness, feeling of movement … you can find a lot in common. We respect established traditions and successful ideas, work with them, but always create something new. Of course, while working on the project, we studied the previous versions of B.Zero1, the main task was to interpret them, but in no case copy them.
- What part of the project did Zaha do personally?
- The work began in the summer of 2015, and by Christmas of that year all the designs had already been approved, Zaha was still with us then.
- How did you work with Zakha?
- Zaha took part in any of our projects from the very beginning. She was a workaholic and believed that this was the only way to gain confidence in the result, develop and overcome barriers. Her legacy is in the DNA of the studio she created. Zaha taught us to work with full dedication, to be curious, involved and passionate.
- What projects is the studio working on now?
- ZHA (Zaha Hadid Architects) recently completed the Maritime Terminal project in Salerno, built the new St Antony's College building at Oxford University 's Middle East Center and the Mathematical Gallery at the Science Museum of London.
We have just returned from the Milan Salone del Mobile, where we presented several interior projects (furniture, lamps and home accessories). We are currently working on many things at the same time, including - on the airport terminal in Beijing, residences in the United States and Australia.>