The birth of punk is considered to be the appearance of the Sex Pistols' first manifesto song, "Anarchy in the UK", although the first ever punk single "New Rose" was released a month earlier by The Damned. The movement, which emerged as a form of social protest, attracted everyone who sought a loud public response, including with a shocking appearance for the layman. Punk clothing was (and still largely belongs) to the “DIY” category, that is, “do-it-yourself” or “do it yourself”. One of the most important milestones in her history was Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's Sex store, which sold tattered T-shirts with semi-pornographic homemade prints.
However, the commercialization of punk was not long in coming: after a couple of years, dresses ripped and studded with safety pins began to appear on the catwalks - at the price of a classic Chanel suit.
Probably driven by patriotic feelings, Englishwoman Zandra Rhodes was the first designer to bring punk to the catwalk. The black-and-pink collection, which she called Concept Chic, had all the street-style dressers - an abundance of gilded safety pins, torn jersey, chains - and not street-level prices.
“We wanted to get out of the dark sensations of the English underground,” explained Vivienne Westwood of her desire to show full-fledged collections as part of Fashion Week. And the Pirates collection, in which punk was closely intertwined with the club style called New Romantics, became the final ideological break with the era of Kings Road and the legendary Sex.
Comme des Garçons
Since the early 1980s, the Japanese brand Comme des Garçons has been regularly shown at Paris Fashion Week. Her collection "Bag lady / post-Hiroshima" with completely "deconstructed" clothes and knitwear with dropped loops, in Europe was associated with punk, although initially it had a different conceptual and emotional message.
© Archive Comme des Garçons
John Galliano's Les Incroyables graduation collection, shown after graduation from St Martins College London, was created in the finest do-it-yourself tradition. Since all the items were sewn in a single copy by the designer himself, Galliano had to age the fabrics with his own hands, “brew” silk shirts with tea in the bath, achieving a faded effect, and also imitate half-torn buttons.
One of the collections of Gianni Versace, whose style was distinguished by deliberate sexuality and luxury for display, was, according to the designer himself, inspired by punk. Held only on huge gold pins, the black dress that actress Elizabeth Hurley wore at the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral is perhaps Versace's most recognizable work.
Throughout his career, Alexander McQueen has approached design in a "punk" way. Since the first shows, for example, "Highland Rape" ("Violence in the Highland"), he showed hairstyles and hats styled as a mohawk, cut or unfinished clothing, often stained like traces of blood. At the same time, the famous "bumsters" appear - trousers that sit on the hips so low that they flaunt much more than just a rebellious character.
© Getty / Catherine McGann
Hedi Slimane dedicated one of his Dior Homme collections to The Heartbreakers, the pioneers of American punk. The designer presented his interpretation of their recognizable white shirt with blood stains on the chest.
Austrian designer Helmut Lang, always balancing on the brink of classic tailoring art and underground aesthetics, released on the catwalk almost replicas of those T-shirts in which the fathers of punk rock and, in particular, the members of The Clash appeared on the stage.
© Marcio Madeira
The protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo - Japanese Junya Watanabe - explores the combination of traditional and new, high-tech materials, which is why his style is called "techno couture". Despite the somewhat apocalyptic impression that his collections leave on viewers, in some cases his designs are a hybrid of traditional punk and cyber-punk.
© AP Photo / Michel Euler
Maison martin margiela
Invisible designer Martin Margiela has always loved deconstruction in clothing. For his couture line Artisanal, for example, he made dresses out of plastic, like the Sex Pistols leaders put on trash bags instead of clothes.
© Maison Martin Margiela>