The meaning of the once created first line of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture was not at all to surprise the world with the price of a tailor-made suit starting at $ 6 thousand (especially since it can be more expensive), but in the idea of a kind of research laboratory, in which is constantly working to improve the men's wardrobe. Evolving according to laws that differ in many respects from those that drive women's fashion, the men's suit, despite all the seeming conservatism, requires a rational, almost mathematical approach “from the inside”, when any changes from the structure of fabric to finishing are calculated with precision, like engine parts. Designer Stefano Pilati, retired as creative director of Ermenegildo Zegnain February of this year, for three years, he masterfully used his experience of work in one of the best Parisian couture houses Yves Saint Laurent to create men's collections, rethinking the whole concept of the brand's men's wardrobe, disassembling it into its component parts and assembling it again, in a different order and from other materials. These intellectual efforts, used by designers, technologists and tailors, involuntarily force us to look even at seemingly simple things of the brand with completely different eyes, to evaluate fabrics in a new way, to take a closer look at the design, to test their practicality.
From the Ermenegildo Zegna fall-winter 2016-2017 collection, chose four items - a crocodile leather jacket, cashmere coats with fur collars and a blazer - and made sure that no men's wardrobe would be complete without them.
In business circles, blue has long been called the new black. The dominance of black coats and suits is giving way to elegant yet safe gray and navy in different tones. Both colors are versatile, so even if you have a pair of suits in blue and gray, get a navy coat - it will be optimal for both occasions, as well as for a tuxedo for the evening.
Coat, suit, shoes, tie, bag, everything - Ermenegildo Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna
If the first option is a calm classic, then the second is also a classic, but obliging to a little more. The model in gray-brown cashmere with a sheared mink collar is more visible, and in the eyes of others it will clearly pretend to be a fashion statement. The shape and color of the coat is equally suitable for a classic suit and a pair of brown derbies for the office, for an asymmetric knitted sweater, jeans and rough boots for a club, and being imposingly thrown over a tuxedo, it will make you remember the Kustodiev portrait of Chaliapin.
Coat, tuxedo, patent derby, all by Ermenegildo Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna
It is impossible not to notice
A soft mustard cashmere blazer, completely devoid of any internal structure and even a lining, may seem a little provocative to someone. However, it is easy to handle. Having picked up a pair of trousers, a piece of knitwear and accessories in muted shades, representatives of the younger generation can play color blocking in the noble colors of the autumn forest.
Blazer, suede derby, all by Ermenegildo Zegna; chinos, cashmere sweater, all Z Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna; Z Zegna
For those who know a lot about Italian style, the blazer will be a comfortable casual form of clothing: it seems to be in a jacket, but on the other hand, you feel free, like in a sweater. Wearing a blazer with a white polo and dress pants, you can receive guests at a dacha outside Moscow, but even better to spend a weekend in Tuscany in it, enjoying a glass of wine in the open air.
Blazer, polo, chinos, suede monks, all by Ermenegildo Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna
A classic matte blue crocodile jacket will cost almost $ 100,000, but it will be saved and passed on by inheritance. This model with half lining (covering only the shoulders and sleeves) seems heavy and tough only at first glance: in Ermenegildo Zegna crocodile leather is specially processed, turning into a soft and pliable material.
Young fans of the brand can reduce the pathos of a crocodile jacket with a pair of sneakers and jeans. The latter are the know-how of this year's Italian brand: they are not made of 100% cotton denim, but with the addition of pure Trofeo wool, which was processed like jeans.
Crocodile jacket, jeans, cashmere and silk sweater, sneakers, all - Ermenegildo Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna
The older generation will appreciate the softness of crocodile skin, which gives the jacket some resemblance to a cardigan, and its external representativeness. With a white shirt and classic trousers, this gentleman's set can be very useful for an informal celebration outside the city or in an exotic country.
Crocodile jacket, shirt, trousers, all - Ermenegildo Zegna; Chelsea low shoes, Z Zegna © Ermenegildo Zegna; Z Zegna>