New High Jewelery Jewelery In Paris: Highlights

New High Jewelery Jewelery In Paris: Highlights
New High Jewelery Jewelery In Paris: Highlights

Video: New High Jewelery Jewelery In Paris: Highlights

Video: Nirav Modi - Splendours and mysteries of Indian high jewellery - LUXE.TV 2022, November
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Cartier: Orchestra of Virtuosos

“At Cartier, everything always starts with His Majesty the Stone,” says Jacqueline Karachi, who has been in charge of the design of the haute joaillerie collections for 35 years. Last year Cartierproved to the whole world that jewelry magic really exists: it is capable of animating stones, creating the illusion of movement, turning any substance from a healing mandrake to a mythical feathered serpent into a jewel. But if the Magicien collection was based primarily on the play of light and optical illusion, then the current collection of jewels, Resonances de Cartier, demonstrates how each individual stone, with its own character and charisma, spreads emotional vibration around itself and forms a certain artistic motive, like circles on water. “Each of them is endowed with a special rhythm and leads its own solo melody, and correctly constructed jewelry compositions sound like a real orchestra,” explains Jacqueline. And in this sense, her work can be compared with the work of a conductor,managing the musicians of the symphony orchestra (such are both gemological samples and employees of a jewelry atelier). Some stones exude absolute serenity, such as two pear-cut colored diamonds, blue and pink, connected in a ring. Like yin and yang, they embody the perfect harmony, which, as you know, is highly valued: the cost of a unique ring, the most expensive in the collection, € 6 million 650 thousand.

Photo: Cartier Press Service
Photo: Cartier Press Service

© press service Cartier

On the opposite pole - price and emotional - the Lacis fire opal necklace turns out to be. The solar mineral, which does not quite correspond to the canons of high jewelry art, attracted Jacqueline's attention with its inner strength and radiance, following the musical metaphor, it reminds her of a loud percussion instrument. The 42.13-carat stone was given a more fancy cushion cut and spaced next to the gray moonstone beads.

The Resonances de Cartier collection is distinguished by several more resonant pieces of stones. One of them is a huge Colombian emerald weighing over 140 carats. The massive "cabochon" is surrounded by a light round dance of diamond trapezoids, between which, like bubbles of air, round-cut diamonds wedged in. The Hyperbole (the name is more than justified for the € 2.9 million jewel) doubles as a necklace and a tiara. The metamorphosis occurs instantly: the side fragments of the necklace are detached, and a rigid hoop with a clasp is attached to the lower part. At the same time, it is surprising how the jewelry changes its structure - the flexible diamond weaving in the necklace turns into a rigid structure of the head jewelry. But all the technical complexity of this transformer is hidden from the eyes by its aesthetic perfection and virtuosity of performance.

Photo: Cartier Press Service
Photo: Cartier Press Service

© press service Cartier

One more thing, outwardly very simple and even democratic, turns out to be a mechanical miracle, perhaps the most difficult and unexpected in the collection. It's about the Eurythmie double-sided scaly cuff bracelet, which the atelier jokingly calls "day-night". One side of its scales is made of lapis lazuli, but as soon as you run your hand over its surface, the elements turn over, revealing the diamond underside. The main problem was not even to perfect this flip, but to fix all the parts in one direction, not allowing them to dangle freely. It took more than one month to develop in detail the shape-shifting jewelry design.

The "high" collection of Resonances de Cartier has over 100 unique pieces of jewelry. The first part of it has already gone to London to meet with British collectors, the second will be presented in the fall in New York. And it will contain many more unique stones, brilliant finds and unexpected solutions. The Cartier Gala continues.

Chaumet: falling into childhood

On the first day of the haute couture week, the grand house of Place Vendôme Chaumet, famous for the great founder, jeweler of the French court Marie-Etienne Nito and connections with the crème de la crème of the French nobility, decided to throw a completely out of order ceremonial party. The Musée des Arts Forains are invited to ride on the antique carousel (which is after the "high" fashion launches Tiffany & Co. In New York, and then Bulgari in Venice is already becoming an obvious trend in the organization of successful events), shoot at targets, leave balls at different types of targets (the one that personally stole my hour or two of my life is a waiters race. Each waiter is numbered and takes 1, 2 or 3 steps forward in depending on which of the holes in his sector accurately - or not very well - the player with the corresponding number falls).

It cannot be said that the new collection of jewelery Chaumet est une fête ("Chaume is a holiday") was the main dish at this evening, it was a natural and integral part of it. And by the way, the fact that selling a dream, image or ambiance is more important than the product itself (after all, only in the context of a dream it will be bought) has become obvious to many now - Chaumet has definitely coped with the task.

The collection itself Chaumet est une fête is divided into four parts. They are all musical, each with its own theme and mood, from Strauss's waltz to Gershwin's “Blue Rhapsody” (in each of the halls of the historic Chaumet building on Vendome, where the collection began to be shown the day after the party, music was played corresponding to the theme).

Photo: Chaumet Press Service
Photo: Chaumet Press Service

© press service Chaumet

The first part of Pastorale Anglaise is built around emeralds. There is also a see-through motive in it - the Scottish tartan. This stylistic decision was inspired by the 1907 brooch, now kept in the historical collection of Chaumet.

This part consists of six pieces, including, of course, a beautiful brooch-bow. The largest stones - two large emeralds of 28.9 and 11.74 carats from the famous Muzo deposit in Colombia are encrusted in a Pastorale Anglaise ring and necklace. The necklace has another interesting feature: the emerald can be detached from it. As they say in Chaumet, "to put it in the safe." The necklace can of course be worn without it. It is the most expensive in the collection; its cost exceeds € 2 million.

In general, the price range for the new collection is from € 400 thousand to the same more than two million. And this is higher than in previous years. The rise is explained by the fact that now the choice is made in favor of even rarer and larger stones, and the work itself is becoming more difficult, the cost of man-hours is increasing.

The Pastorale Anglaise part also presents jewelry bracelet watches - one of three watches in the entire collection.

Photo: Chaumet Press Service
Photo: Chaumet Press Service

© press service Chaumet

The second movement - Vales d'Hiver - winter, "frozen", with white pearls and colorless diamonds. Moreover, pearls here are not only cultured, but also natural, which is now incredibly rare. True, only in one of the jewelry - a long necklace, which was the first to be sold in the collection. The history of this pearl is interesting: it was taken out of another necklace - with the motif of waves and the Goldfish, presented several years ago. A Russian client who would have appreciated the precious variation on Pushkin's fairy tale was never found, but in combination with diamond volutes, pearls were bought instantly. By the way, pearls for Chaumet - material significant throughout history, once in one of the halls of the historical building, where the collection was presented and where the museum, archive and part of the office premises are now located, there was even a workshop room where pearl beaters worked.

Photo: Chaumet Press Service
Photo: Chaumet Press Service

© press service Chaumet

The third, passionate in Italian, part of Aria Passionata is executed in red - with rubies, tourmalines and garnets. These are very wearable and not boring jewelry at all. Even such large items as a multi-row necklace with ruby ​​beads and a detachable brooch on the back can fit into a completely different wardrobe.

It is interesting that the first three movements definitely evoke associations with Balanchine's three-act ballet “Jewels” - here you have emeralds, diamonds, and rubies.

Photo: Chaumet Press Service
Photo: Chaumet Press Service

© press service Chaumet

Rhapsodie Transatlantique with lilac, yellow-green sapphires and padparadscha sapphires takes away from this association. In this part, most of all brooches (and they are now becoming a real trend) - there are three of them: two miniature and one medium, they are offered to be worn either individually or by collecting them in a composition. There are also three pairs of earrings, the most interesting are those with a branch with leaves wrapped around the ear behind. The rhapsody is completed by large objects - a ring with three sapphires and a necklace with sapphires and morganites.

Only the news that the head of the high-jewelery atelier Pascal Bourdarya, a great jeweler, a real connoisseur and connoisseur of jewelry, and just a person of rare spiritual qualities, had left Chaumet, made me sad at this holiday. But his place was taken by his own former employee, who worked in this atelier for more than 28 years. So the party continues.>

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