Chanel High Jewelry: running on the waves
The House of Chanel is discovering for itself and fans of the brand all the new pages of the biography of its great founder and no less great muse. We have already studied in detail the decor of Chinese screens in the apartment on rue Cambon and the furnishings of Mademoiselle's suite in the Ritz, and visited her favorite beaches in Biarritz. It's time to see her private villa on the French Riviera, near Monte Carlo. The house in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin was built in 1929 on a rocky patch of land donated to Chanel by her lover, the Duke of Westminster. Coco created La Pausa for herself and furnished it to her liking: the ascetic interior more than compensates for the magnificent sea view from the windows.
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A couple of years ago, Chanel bought the estate (and will soon begin restoration) and invited the closest friends of the brand here, just as the hostess once received Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dali here. Creaky wooden floors, snow-white sails and the endless sea - it was in this environment that the guests were presented with new jewelry from the High Jewelery Flying Cloud collection. It owes its name to a huge snow-white four-masted yacht, which belonged to the same duke, and a photograph of Mademoiselle posing on the deck is well known.
A simple, in some ways even rude atmosphere suggested in what key to interpret the nautical theme. There are no romantic waves with lambs, intricate degradation transitions imitating the palette of the water area, bizarre fish and other inhabitants of the depths. On the contrary, designers are interested in the most basic items of "nautical" use: lifebuoy, anchor, striped vest, rope, nautical knots and even tattoos. All this sailor's life perfectly fit into the brilliant but strict precious style of Chanel, in which, in addition to gold, mainly white, and colorless diamonds, there are also milk pearls, lapis lazuli and deep blue sapphires from Ceylon and Madagascar. This time, the task was not to find a super-large stone of unprecedented carat (a 12-carat cushion-cut stone was used in one ring, in the Turquoise waters necklace, already sold for € 1.5 million, more than 50 sapphires of different cuts are woven into gold threads), the rich shade of corundum was important.
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Fragments of a life buoy that frames the central diamond in the Precious Floa t set from a ring, earrings and sautoir with pearls (jewelry cost from € 42,000 to 125,000) were made of dark blue lapis lazuli with golden flashes. Tracks of square cut sapphires, alternating with diamond stripes, form that very jewelry version of the vest: this motif is found in the wide Summer Cruise cuff bracelet, in rings with central yellow diamonds, in “clips” intercepting multi-row pearl necklaces. One more blue-and-white stripe is found in the one-of-a-kind table clock: fragments of pavé diamonds alternate with bright lapis lazuli on the dial, case and base of the watch.
The virtuoso setting of diamonds is visible in a set imitating a twisted rope with interspersed air bubbles or water drops. The Sparklling Lines ring, bracelet and necklace have a similar structure, reminiscent of a mooring rope, casually wound or simply thrown on the deck: some of the weaving details are covered with diamond pavé, and between them diamonds of different sizes, rolled into a round frame, are "stuck".
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The most expensive of the 63 Flying Cloud jewelery was the Endless Knot ring with a 13-carat diamond, sold for € 3.7 million; the passing banner was picked up by the eponymous necklace with a diamond nautical knot motif worth € 1.8 million.
A diamond anchor and a wind rose adorned a wide openwork bracelet made of gold and titanium (except for a pure diamond, there is a version with blue sapphire trim). Sailor Tattoo jewelry, perhaps, can be considered a kind of emblem of the entire collection: the Chanel anchor is the Great Coco, the inspiration and hope of any creative endeavor, and the wind rose is freedom and space for new discoveries. Happy sailing, Flying Cloud!
The Swiss watchmaker first presented its new Sunlight Journey collection in Rome in June, and then “with additions” in Paris. Decorations continued the themes of the riviera, jet setting and Piaget Society. This is the Piaget Society - a favorite theme of the brand in recent years. This is the name given to those bon vivants who cruised between the Cote d'Azur and winter Gstaad, threw parties and enjoyed the "sunny side of life" (this is now Piaget's motto). In his youth belonged to this elite and Yves Piaget, the representative of the fourth generation of the family since the foundation of the company. And the Piaget beganAs a jewelry brand, it is largely thanks to Yves, and he created jewelry specifically for these bon vivants, knowing and feeling their tastes. Here and now Sunlight Journey: formally - this is a precious story about the Sun, a journey from dusk to dawn, but this is not the main thing. As in Mediterranean Garden there was no main motif of palm trees, in Secrets and Lights - symbols of the Venetian carnival, and in Sunny Side of Life - flamingos (and the continuation of these particular collections was Sunlight Journey).
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The main thing here is cruising, lightness. Ease of decoration and life. This is a collection about art, including the art of living - art de vivre. There are 130 items in total, 30 of which are watches, both created in a single copy and reproducible. Among the most interesting is a large ring with an irregularly shaped black opal, the entire structure of which was created to match the silhouette of the stone - and this can be seen at Piaget for the first time. Other important rings in the collection are kept secret: the domed upper part of the jewelry slides open to reveal a magnificent marquetry created by the main plume artist of our time, Nelly Saunier (with her, recall, Piagetstarted working with the Secrets and Lights collection). Among the high-light collections are several necklaces, including a classic necklace with unique Burmese rubies. It is they who, bought in a single lot, are remarkable first of all.
It was obvious that it would be simply impossible to pick up additional rubies that would match the color, size and clarity, so the design of the necklace and accompanying bracelet and ring was developed specifically for the set. Another exceptional set of stones - colorless and yellow diamonds and an incredible tone of strawberry spinel - have been collected for more than 10 months for a necklace with a motif of the sun's rays diverging from the center. It was with this jewelry that the whole collection began, it was the first invented and created.
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There are quite a few in the collection, the prices for jewelry in which start somewhere from 50 thousand francs, emeralds (exclusively Colombian) and sapphires (Burmese and Sri Lankan). Among the latter is the main star of the entire collection. Burmese sapphire of 53.45 carats, set in a ring. This decoration is also noteworthy for the story reminiscent of a fairy tale: for the new collection they were looking for some exceptional stone that would become its star. Piaget chief gemologist Guillaume (it is customary not to name such employees, too valuable personnel) recalled that in the late 1980s an incredible sapphire was found in Mogok, which was quickly sold and has not been found on the market since, and set out to find it. And the most amazing thing I found: faceted and rimless. At Piagetthis incredibly clean stone has not been re-cut. The price for the gemological rarity was set at an appropriate level - 8 million Swiss francs (almost € 8 million). But it is worth it beyond any doubt - this ring can make any life incredibly sunny.>