At Ease: How And Why Do Chefs Make Their Own Dishes

At Ease: How And Why Do Chefs Make Their Own Dishes
At Ease: How And Why Do Chefs Make Their Own Dishes

Video: At Ease: How And Why Do Chefs Make Their Own Dishes

Video: Can These Chefs Create This Kid's Dream Breakfast? • Tasty 2022, November
Anonim

St. Petersburg became a pioneer in this hobby - Ivan Berezutsky experimented with plates of his own production, even when he was in charge of the PMI Bar kitchen. His passion was picked up by Sergei Berezutsky in the Moscow "As Is", and when the brothers were reunited in the kitchen Twins, they hit all the bad. Together with the ceramic artist, with whom Ivan worked while still in St. Petersburg, the brothers manually sculpt plates from Russian clay with a fundamentally rough, uneven shape. Before firing, the stems and leaves of plants are pressed into the surface and crystals are embedded. The heat burns the greens, leaving an imprint on the plate that looks like an ancient fossil. Crystals, in the process of using the dishes, from heat and moisture, slowly-slowly grow and deform, as in a chemistry lesson - and the plate turns out to be alive. The brothers' firing is also unusual - they make it using the Japanese technology called "raku". The fired plate is immersed in sawdust, due to which streaks form on the surface of the clay, each time of a different, unpredictable shape.

Tableware from Twins Restaurant
Tableware from Twins Restaurant

Crockery from Twins restaurant © Twins press service

Petersburg resident Dmitry Blinov, on the contrary, makes the plates as clear, strict and technological as possible - to match the atmosphere in his Tartarbar. Monochromatic, minimalistic deep plates made of glazed porous concrete, in which guests are brought in breaded giblets, cabbage steak and other Blinov's hits, are made according to his idea. Moreover, Blinov, unlike most of his colleagues, does not hesitate to call things by their proper names. There are few dishes for restaurants, it is unreasonably expensive, and making your own plates is fashionable: the chef explains his motives honestly and sincerely.

Dishes from the restaurant "Tartarbar"
Dishes from the restaurant "Tartarbar"

Dishes from the restaurant "Tartarbar" © press service "Tartarbar"

Stas Pesotsky, the chef of the Moscow restaurant Bjorn, continues the theme of economy and respect for nature. They use a lot of venison on the menu, and they try not to throw away the large bones - they grind them right in the restaurant on which they serve, for example, reindeer tartare with soaked lingonberries. Pieces of shale limestone, on which food is also served, are, again, grind right in the restaurant. Earthenware - plates, cups, teapots - are ordered from pottery workshops according to sketches drawn by Stas, and then finalized together with the designer.

Dishes from the Bjorn restaurant
Dishes from the Bjorn restaurant

Dishes from the Bjorn Restaurant © Bjorn Press Office

Antonio Freza in St. Petersburg Jerome understands naturalness somewhat differently. Ceramic casts from the chef's hands are used here as dishes for snacks. Option two - two palms collected in a handful and a typical Italian emotional gesture - a brush collected in a pinch. This dish is used to serve dishes from the gastronomic set, which started at the end of winter.

Timur Abuzyarov, chef at Beer Happens, Bao + Bar and the Cevicheria-Tartaria family, has turned his hobby for crockery into a real business. Plates and glasses, monochromatic and minimalistic, covered with a thick layer of pastel glaze, Abuzyarov produces and sells under the Kenai brand. The Vineria wine boutique, located next door to Cevicheria, has a regular china shop, where all these plates are sold. In addition to his own restaurants, Abuzyarov supplies dishes and colleagues. With what Kenai produces, are used, for example, by Adrian Ketglas, and the chef Anton Kovalkov has created, together with this brand, his own line of circle dishes - it was presented literally just now, in the first days of spring.

Photo: facebook.com/kenaiceramics
Photo: facebook.com/kenaiceramics

1 of 6 Kenai ceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics © facebook.com/kenaiceramics

In addition to I Like restaurants, Vladimir Perelman is the head of the I Like Design bureau, where special attention is paid to tableware. They took under the wing the designer Eduard Galushkin and his artel "Priroda Daras", which supplied many restaurants - from Moscow's White Rabbit to Nizhny Novgorod's Mitrich with emphasized "natural" looking wooden utensils. Ceramics according to their own sketches are ordered from the same ubiquitous Timur Abuzyarov.>

Popular by topic