This fashion "week", which lasted for only three calendar days (in the short term, Gucci and other brands are "to blame" impeccable costume cut, there has always been a "sellability", for the sake of a hard-hitting coin, they have taken an all too obvious course towards the main trendsetters of recent years - Gosha Rubchinsky, Demna Gvasalia and Raf Simons. The most authoritative edition of Business of Fashioneven burst out on this occasion with a column about the lack of originality among the Milanese (although this is, for that matter, an almost ubiquitous ailment, and indeed the current state of the fashion world). But there is still gunpowder in the flasks. At least this five is truly magnificent.
Ermenegildo Zegna
The owners of the brand hardly ever had to regret the appointment of Alessandro Sartori to the honorary position of creative director: the talented Italian copes with his duties with a bang. The designer does not set himself the goal of "restarting" (as Justin O'Shea tried to do with Brioni - and not that he succeeded), on the contrary, he works with DNA. We say Zegna - we still mean suits (and no, not sweatpants with an olympic, although hints of sports, of course, are present - the notorious athleisure is in no hurry to leave), coats, knitwear. Only the color palette is not a classic fight of black, gray and blue, but a real riot of colors. Sartori really tinkered with the latter: there is little that can compete in beauty with a geranium-colored suit.
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Fendi
Critics unanimously awarded the title of the best collection to the creation of Silvia Venturini Fendi. It is understandable: it is so clever to humor without losing common sense - aerobatics, worthy of awards and applause. At Fendi turned satire on office life (not without reason among the sources of inspiration wormed character Christian Bale from the film "American Psycho") and ties, suspenders and portfolios, as well as prints in the form of a telephone and a cup of coffee - a white collar, pray isn't making friends with these two?
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Prada
This season, the brand has destroyed its own pattern: for many years, Prada gentlemen's collections were presented along with women's off-season ones. Now, with more and more brands practicing the merger approach, Miuccia naturally abandons the idea: despite her affectionate attitude to everything “normal,” being “like everyone else” is definitely not an end in itself for her. Even the declared theme is comics! - is interpreted without banal, like capes fluttering behind the back and, say, tights. Instead - printed graphic novel pages and overalls on shirts - those who wear them - be they plumbers or mechanics - are also superheroes in a way, right?
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Marni
Francesco Risso once worked under the guidance of Miuccia Prada, and this is noticeable with the naked eye - at least in an uncompromising approach to the combination of seemingly incongruous, layering and other eccentricities (although all this, of course, is more a matter of stylization than design). The wizard, greedy for self-expression, mixes everything with everything: the Scottish diamond - with "Hawaiian", the strip - with the cage and wears two shirts on models at once. For the title of the strangest object in this fashionable "okroshka", a cap and a top, reminiscent of an unfinished body, are fighting; but everything else is quite worthy of the wardrobe of even a serious person - if only he was not devoid of self-irony.
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Giorgio armani
Let's not be cunning: any collection of Giorgio Armani is similar to the collection of Giorgio Armani - no more, no less. But in this challenging time of transformation in favor of commerce, such a commitment to its own authenticity deserves respect. And the Armani audience for the most part does not consist of those who line up for sweatshirts with Cyrillic letters. Another thing is the so-called timeless pieces, or things outside of time; hence the neutral gray and beige colors with the addition of the designer's adored blue and purple. However, even in this situation, the gray-haired Italian was able to surprise: in the final he released a string of snow-white suits on the podium - for those who always start from scratch in the spring.
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