The idea of a new business model “See now - buy now” or “look and buy” has been heard since last year by everyone who is interested in and professionally engaged in fashion. Fall fashion weeks will be the "moment of truth" for the model that has split the industry in two. The main idea of the concept, the followers of which have already announced themselves Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon, Burberry, Ralph Lauren(and this is only a tiny part of the list), - to shorten the time interval between the show of collections and their arrival in stores, lasting on average six months. Guided by the adage "Good dinner spoon," the advocates of innovation are confident that it will help optimize sales by satisfying customer requests immediately after the show, while the fire of desire is burning. “When we first heard about this initiative from the representatives of the brand, we were intrigued and inspired: this is a truly revolutionary solution and a radical renewal of fashionable graphics,” say buyers from Moscow boutiques Tom Ford. "At the moment there is a big gap between the 'fashion season' and the actual one, and thanks to Ford, this distance is closing, bringing the fashionable winter in line with the calendar."
Tom Ford's Fall / Winter collection, combining menswear and womenswear and hitting its flagship boutique on Madison Avenue the next day, is a set of recognizable brand codes associated with the cinematic luxury of old Hollywood: pencil skirts, abundance of animal prints, sequins, furs, velvet and an abundance of solid gold jewelry.
However, how does the procurement system, which until then was completely based on the system of pre-orders with long lead times, work now? Buyers argue that the purchase schedule has not changed: “There is still a pre-collection order, which consists mainly of items that can be worn all year round: suits, blazers, classic dresses and jackets, as well as seasonal outerwear and knitted demi-season knitwear. This is followed by the purchase of the main collection - the part that was not shown in New York. Here are presented the iconic items of the season - new models of dresses, skirts, jackets, trousers, tuxedos from jacquard fabrics, evening dresses - and those that are designed for the peak of winter cold: down jackets, sheepskin coats, suits and jackets made of "heavy" fabrics."
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So far, one of the obvious shortcomings of the system is the lack of lookbooks and press releases for the new collection, due to the fact that information should not get into the press before the planned start of sales. Buyers call this "the only difficulty with the new show schedule" and lament the fact that they cannot provide sufficient information to buyers or support items already in stores - from the pre-collection or part of the main collection that was not included in the catwalk.
In general, the concept of "See now - buy now" meets the needs of today, where the speed of obtaining information is key and the winner is the one who offers to get what they want with the "least number of clicks". In many ways, this primarily refers to the female audience, which is more closely watching what is happening on the catwalks, and more carefully compiles the lists of objects of desire. For successful sales of men's collections, a much more important factor is the practical component: high quality materials, cut of products and the arrival of goods in stores corresponding to the actual weather. These factors remain unchanged for the Tom Ford men's collections.
The commercial success of the business model is yet to be assessed in the coming season.>