Sleight Of Hand: The Main Forge Of Italian Classic Fashion

Sleight Of Hand: The Main Forge Of Italian Classic Fashion
Sleight Of Hand: The Main Forge Of Italian Classic Fashion

Video: Sleight Of Hand: The Main Forge Of Italian Classic Fashion

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When Ciro Paone, a fifth-generation descendent of suiting fabric merchants, in 1956 decided to turn the family business into something more creative, he hardly imagined that in a couple of decades his company would set the standards for manual production of almost everything a businessman needs. or a woman with increased demands on herself and those around her - from a classic suit to a jacket or sportswear. The factory, located just 9 km from Naples, is now sewing just the very suits, boots and sneakers. Models made of alligator leather and ties are especially popular. There is also production in other regions of Italy, primarily knitwear.

All Kiton craftsmen can sew 200 shirts and ties, 80 jackets or coats, and 20 pairs of shoes per day
All Kiton craftsmen can sew 200 shirts and ties, 80 jackets or coats, and 20 pairs of shoes per day

All Kiton craftsmen can make 200 shirts and ties, 80 jackets or coats, and 20 pairs of shoes per day. © Kiton Press Service

If you ask how Kiton's tailoring of a jacket, shirt or coat differs from the usual ones, that is, those that will then hang on a hanger in one of the boutiques around the world, waiting for its owner, the answer will be too simple. In general, apart from these measures, nothing. Everything in the factories of the brand is 100% handmade to justify the slogan coined by Signor Paone: "The best of the best plus one". Having visited at least one of the "workshops", you quickly understand: fabrics are stored here, including an expensive vicuna with an ornament, woven specially for Kiton (before that, without loss of quality, no one could change color or weave something else from this wool native to Peru, except for plain fabric); there - at the same table, tailors sew by hand short fashionable jackets from the same vicuna or cashmere,classic tuxedos with wide lapels, plaid coats with dapper cuffs on the sleeves, jackets with full, "half" lining or no lining at all. In total, more than 300 tailors work for the brand, each of whom can sew any item from start to finish, but in the large hall with long wooden tables, high ceilings and images of southern Italian saints and football players on the walls, a division of labor is accepted. Today you sew buttonholes, tomorrow you sew on the sleeve. And each of these operations must be performed at the highest level.high ceilings and images of southern Italian saints and football players on the walls are divided into labor. Today you sew buttonholes, tomorrow you sew on the sleeve. And each of these operations must be performed at the highest level.high ceilings and images of southern Italian saints and football players on the walls are divided into labor. Today you sew buttonholes, tomorrow you sew on the sleeve. And each of these operations must be performed at the highest level.

Photo: Kiton Press Service
Photo: Kiton Press Service

1 of 6 © Kiton Press Service © Kiton Press Service © Kiton Press Service © Kiton Press Service © Kiton Press Service © Kiton Press Service

To quickly understand how the process of tailoring is treated at the Kiton factory, in principle, it is enough to tell how the shirt is made - no matter which one, ordered according to individual measurements or one that goes to the store without the initials of the future owner. It will take only one minute for the director of the “shirt shop” Sebastiano Borelli to convince anyone that they are sewn here in a special way, not like everyone else. During these 60 seconds, he will instantly spread it on the table several times so that you can see how clearly it matches on the details being sewn with each other, for example, a checkered ornament, how symmetrical it is on the left and right sides of the shirt. He will pull two parts in different directions - and a manual, zigzag seam will be visible, thanks to which the shirt fits perfectly even after washing. Its bottom is hemmed like silk shawls, the gusset is manually sewn,and there are no additional "pads" in the bar - all these moments, as Borelli says, allow even a new, just purchased shirt to be immediately loved.

It takes an average of 30 minutes to sew one tie, three hours for a pair of sneakers, four for a shirt, 16 for a jacket, and 18 hours for a coat
It takes an average of 30 minutes to sew one tie, three hours for a pair of sneakers, four for a shirt, 16 for a jacket, and 18 hours for a coat

It takes an average of 30 minutes to sew one tie, three hours for a pair of sneakers, four for a shirt, 16 for a jacket, and 18 hours for a coat. © Kiton Press Service

However, this happens with every item released with the "Kiton" tag. This is also noted by Antonio de Matteis, the current CEO of the company: “Once, having made a choice in favor of the brand's clothing, rarely does a client want to wear something different. Yes, our customers are experimenting - but they always come back.” He himself is dressed from head to toe in the clothes of the brand that he has represented for many years. He is wearing a navy blazer, white shirt, smoky pink pants, trainers and a light parka made of the finest leather in deep blue. “I know that shades of gray, brown and black are more popular in Russia,” Antonio says smiling after my compliment about the color of his trousers. "But I, like any Neapolitan, prefer to mix something very conservative with something extremely cheerful."Nevertheless, Russian buyers also love noticeable ornaments and bright colors in Kiton, which have become its distinctive feature - however, they choose such clothes for leisure, and not for office everyday life. Although there is nothing shameful or provocative in the now especially fashionable plaid jacket - this is what Ciro Paone understood no less than 50 years ago.>

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